DaveT

I bought a 2WD wagon years ago. Put the 4WD 3AT into it. Added the rear diff. Had to fabrication a mount for the center driveshaft bearing. Had swap the 2WD rear trailing arms for 4WD ones. Has to add a wire and swap the shifter to get the 4WD button. The cross piece that monuts the rear of the Trans may need to swap also. The frame / body had holes punched part way through for the mustache bar (rear diff mount), so I drilled them through. Used a hole saw to make access holes to put nuts on the bolts. You also need the suspension bar from a 4wd for the front diff mount. Or weld the tabs onto the one you have.

I know of 2 possible reasons for the coolant right near the carb [and throttle body] 1. Keep the whole manifold and all at the same temp, because of expansion stress if un evenly heated. 2. Prevent carburetor icing.

Here's 2 similar things I've had happen with EA82s - IAC solenoid died. The engine would just shut down unless I held the gas pedal part way down. The ECU thermometer went wacko, and in the end, was telling the ECU that the engine was cold all the time, so the car idled at high idle all the time. I don't remember if I got a code for the IAC failure. I did NOT get a trouble code for the thermometer, as the readings were not outside of the possible range of valid readings.

I have seen plastic plugs used for that also.

Well, when I had that problem with my 87. I disassembled the entire xash,heater system, and all. Washed with bleach. One error - also, clean out the passages in the body that bring in air. And put hardware cloth in place to stop future residents.

How I work on struts. The main beam is a PT 6x6. The 2 bars at the top are 3/4" diameter shafts from something. Short piece of Unistrut to keep the top from sliding up the bars. The silvery thing near the brackets on the strut is a pipe hanger slightly larger than the strut, bolted to the 6x6. The jack should be obvious, and is sitting on a piece of 5/16" angle iron, bolted to the 6x6.

Check the ECU thermometer. It is the 2 wire sensor below and front from the thermostat.

Disassembled the combination meter from my 1993 4WD wagon and swapped parts around with spares to add the volt meter and oil pressure gauge, while keeping the original odometer. Since the engine had both the oil pressure switch and the sender, I just had to move the YB wire to the pressure sender, and pop the YB wire out of the connector that went to the oil fail light.

I have not battled with those codes. But I have found a broken wire in the engine harness a couple times. One was rubbed through the insulation and shorting out. On the wire was broken inside the insulation, and intermittent. I had the ECU temperature sensor fail recently - caused all kinds of weird problems - idle speed all over the place. Wouldn't run when cold. Did not get a trouble code. It gradually got worse over time.

Safe way to test if it is lack of fuel - Spray a good couple seconds of carb cleaner into one of the ports on the intake boot. Go crank it. If it runs for a burst, you have everything except fuel. +1 for tapping on the fuel pump. And checking for it running.

If the passenger's side timing belt broke, the disty is still driven by the driver's side.

There is no crank sensor. Ignition is fired be electronic breaker points in the disty. When you crank, does it sound normal even rRrRrRr?

I rebuilt on a stand. I have spare engines. The M11x1.25 repair kit I found is Coil - Sert P/N:IK405-11 Made in USA, even.

I had a catalytic break up once. A big piece plugged up the exit, and the car just didn't want to go. Idle, fine, light power, ok. Heavy throttle, blehh. Fuel filter clogged / or trapping water can limit power also.

I has one strip like that. Searched online and found a heli coil or equal kit. It worked.

Model & year would help. But if this is a GL, and inside my range of Subaru experience [86-94] The E-brake is attached to the front brakes. If it is a standard shift, it may have the Hill Holder "clutch" which is really a valve system in the brakes. The E brake isn't usually strong enough to lock up the car, just make it draggy.

Ah, I got that crossed up. Yeah, the 2WD vs 4WD struts would not be the cause, the only difference I know of is ride height.

Re check that everything is tight. Switching 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD may cause a clunk under certain conditions. Maybe from drive shaft worn needle bearings in the U joints. Are all 4 of your tires worn the same? Tires of un equal diameter can contribute to noises when switching.

The head thread was named something like "post apocalyptic head resurfacing "

Gurgling is usually just air. Constant coolant level rising in the recovery = failing head gasket. Not just the temporary rise from normal expansion, which is drawn back into the engine when cooled to room temp. Everything I have seen say no sealer or the like is to be used on head gaskets. Do be sure the block and heads don't have impressions from the fire rings of the old gaskets. Get the Subaru re enforced o ring for the oil channel that suplies the cam.

I know the feeling. I've had to give up a few due to rust getting away from me. But the parts live on in my current cars.

Interesting

I have searched for stainless studs. Never found any with the same pitch threads. I use stainless nuts, and anti seize. Real stainless flanges and washers and lock washers help too.

The problem is caused by the amount of power dissipated in too small of an enclosed space. The common failure is the solder corrode and opens the circuit. You don't need to replace the parts,just re solder. BUT it will just fail again. If a bigger wattage resistor were mounted outside of the clock, it may work indefinitely. The other mod is separate , it just makes the clock more resistant to power glitches.

With 4, I'm sure at least one will be fixed by doing this mod.