DaveT

If the blower doesn't run on the low speed settings, the problem is usually the resistors that the speed switch selects the speed with. The 2 slowest settings are notorious for failing. The resistors are mounted withe 2 screws on the blower housing so that the resistors are in the path of the air existing the blower. There was a recent thread with someone having low heat output. That case , turned out to be that the pieces of foam that seal the heater core in the plastic heater box had deteriorated so that the air could get around the core, thus not get heated well.

Oh, yes, I don't want to try to run it without finding all those pieces of spline that have to be somewhere. There was nothing in the pan except clean ATF. I also figure, if I'm opening it up, I should check stuff like bands, clutches, seals. No point doing all the work and having some other stupid small thing kill it again.

Online should be "o".

The only reason I've seen coolant or bubbles overflowing the recovery tank is blown head gasket. Check for leaking of water pump seals, and the online ring and the short 1/2" 90 degree bend hose that is above the pump. In case you or someone new seeing this, there are 7 coolant hoses on an ea82. If you replace 1 due to age or failure, you should replace them all.

Yes, the pump shaft is very long. One of 2 cars is back in use. I am setting up to work on transmissions now. Since this is not going to be a quick project, in the meanwhile, I'd like to find a working 3AT that I can swap into the 2nd inoperable car. I am in central CT, if anyone knows of a 3AT laying around, or a scrapyard likely to have such old cars, let me know...

I had a cat fail - the ceramic part broke loose, and plugged the exit port. The car got really sluggish, no power, sounded wrong. You can try loosening the y pipe bolts. You want a good gap between the flange and the heads for this. It will be loud, but if the power is back, you know the exhaust is blocked.

On the coolant leak, is there a puddle under the car, or does the coolant just keep disappearing from the recovery bottle?

It's been interesting reading this thread. It does bring back memories from years ago when this sort of thing was discussed. The pieces I remember from back then is that there are a lot of things that are not conducive to power in the head design, and porting has little effect because of the other limiting factors. Size of valves being one, all the bends in the passages being another.

On you tbi car, it could be the coolant temperature sensor. They can fail intermittent and random. And not generate an error code. I don't remember having a problem like that with my carbed car, it was a long time ago.

It'll be interesting to see how it works. I can see that down the road, I might need to do this, when a head gasket fails, and there are no more replacements available...

I have a carb one.

There are a few for diagnostics near the fuel filter. Not sure about the otherside. There are relays on the passenger side on my 87.

A piece of 1/4" plate glass would work nearly as well and be a lot less expensive.

A piece of 1/4" plate glass would work nearly as well and be a lot less expensive.

If you scratch at the latex with a finger nail, does it come off?

I would think trying to roll without axles would mess up the knuckles also. At least the seals.

I'm pretty sure you can get left hand drill bits from MScdirect.Com or McMaster carr. If the bolts snapped because they were hard to turn while unscrewing, drilling out is what you will likely end up doing. Another trick I've seen is weld a washer to the snapped end, and use it to turn the bolt.

Yes, the won out contact will cause the same problem. I've replaced a few of them.

All 7 coolant hoses. Radiator condition. Check coolant level frequently. +1 timing belts and 3 idlers.

It should be 10w 40 engine oil, unless you are in extreme cold.

Well, there's my problem... Pump drive shafts. Top one is from my 86. Bottom one is from my 90, which is the one that was in my 87 when it broke. The 87 now has the transmission from my 92 installed, and it's working. Now for the $64,000.00 question - why did the pump get stalled so bad the splines stripped clean off?

Ok, my 87 is drivable, the transmission from my rusted to death 92 still works.

I'll pull the shafts later tonight or tomorrow. I have to get a car running first. I have an insane situation here... I am in the cast of an amateur theater production, opening night is the 13th. I am a also building special effects for the show. I have a paying job where I run sound for another production starting Tuesday. And all the crazy snow. ... and 2 dead cars. And then I could start on the non critical jobs.... yes, more snow coming.

The show so far... the completely dead one from the 87 is out. I turned the pump drive shaft with my fingers, and it feels draggy like oil viscosity. A known good 3AT is getting placed on the dolly to roll under the car.

Great. Now my 2nd car lost reverse and 3rd.