DaveT

On you tbi car, it could be the coolant temperature sensor. They can fail intermittent and random. And not generate an error code. I don't remember having a problem like that with my carbed car, it was a long time ago.

It'll be interesting to see how it works. I can see that down the road, I might need to do this, when a head gasket fails, and there are no more replacements available...

I have a carb one.

There are a few for diagnostics near the fuel filter. Not sure about the otherside. There are relays on the passenger side on my 87.

A piece of 1/4" plate glass would work nearly as well and be a lot less expensive.

A piece of 1/4" plate glass would work nearly as well and be a lot less expensive.

If you scratch at the latex with a finger nail, does it come off?

I would think trying to roll without axles would mess up the knuckles also. At least the seals.

I'm pretty sure you can get left hand drill bits from MScdirect.Com or McMaster carr. If the bolts snapped because they were hard to turn while unscrewing, drilling out is what you will likely end up doing. Another trick I've seen is weld a washer to the snapped end, and use it to turn the bolt.

Yes, the won out contact will cause the same problem. I've replaced a few of them.

All 7 coolant hoses. Radiator condition. Check coolant level frequently. +1 timing belts and 3 idlers.

It should be 10w 40 engine oil, unless you are in extreme cold.

Well, there's my problem... Pump drive shafts. Top one is from my 86. Bottom one is from my 90, which is the one that was in my 87 when it broke. The 87 now has the transmission from my 92 installed, and it's working. Now for the $64,000.00 question - why did the pump get stalled so bad the splines stripped clean off?

Ok, my 87 is drivable, the transmission from my rusted to death 92 still works.

I'll pull the shafts later tonight or tomorrow. I have to get a car running first. I have an insane situation here... I am in the cast of an amateur theater production, opening night is the 13th. I am a also building special effects for the show. I have a paying job where I run sound for another production starting Tuesday. And all the crazy snow. ... and 2 dead cars. And then I could start on the non critical jobs.... yes, more snow coming.

The show so far... the completely dead one from the 87 is out. I turned the pump drive shaft with my fingers, and it feels draggy like oil viscosity. A known good 3AT is getting placed on the dolly to roll under the car.

Great. Now my 2nd car lost reverse and 3rd.

I manged to get the good transmission out of the rusty car. Got the good car with the dead transmission into the garage.

Seems like a risky idea to just put in a new one without checking the pump is all good and no broken bit floating around in it...

Hi Lily, You need the ground connected for this kind of test. The wire to test with anything from 18AWG to 10AWG is good enough / not too heavy to deal with. I usually use pieces from a spare parts harness, so one end has a connector that fits on the starter. The other, just touch to the battery. Also a cheap backup starting trick I used for a while when first dealing with the intermittent no start problem I had. Put the key in run position, touch wire, remove wire, drive. you could also use a temporary test clip on the end of a wire, and clip it to the terminal on the starter. The end you touch to the battery will make a spark, but it isn't anything to be scared of. Just don't touch the metal. Cuts hurt worse than any shock I've ever gotten, and the worst ones I've felt didn't come off a car.

I'll check that. Anyone know if that shaft can be pulled out & re inserted without parts dropping out of place?

Test 1. Use a piece of wire from battery + to the little tab on back of the starter. If it engages , it's likely the notorious weak connection somewhere in the harness or ignition switch. Fix by adding a relay. Other reason for click no starter is a contact inside the solenoid which can be replaced.

Pull the disty and move the gear ahead one tooth over stock?

Is that magnaflow the kind of stainless that does'nt rust away?

Yes, the top 2 are k ohm.