DaveT

I'm curious to see if the colors match up. I have not had time to try to look at mine. Possibly this weekend

Are you referring to using a second combination wrench to make a longer handle? I use that trick sometimes.

This is a very old thread. . What are you looking for / dealing with?

Front wheel bearing seal. Inner and outer.

From what I can see so far, the pump shaft just goes into the pump spline. The only thing other than the splines at each end is a seal [Could be a seal, or maybe just a spacer to make it possible to slip the torque converter on. ] near the torque converter end. I've looked at the pump shafts in 5 3ATs at this point. Mileage range from a bit under 100,000 to a bit over 200,000. Only my 86 has no significant wear. It has a different gear ratio on the final drive and diff. I doubt that is related. It's not that different, just different enough to make a car feel logy and slow compared to the other ones. That one, I'll keep everything together, and investigate changing the final drive and diff to make it compatible with my others.

1st 2 things that come to mind - Plug wires 2 and 4 swapped. I did this once to an older Subaru engine. It ran really rough, but it ran. Quick harmless test, swap the plug wires on 2 & 4. Other that might do this - timing belt - did you turn the crankshaft 1 full turn before installing the second belt? I never tried this, but others have. I am not sure exactly if an EA82 would try to run this way, or be backfiring and generally not run.

It is odd though - only the pump end gets the wear. The torque converter end is like new. There is nothing mechanical that holds the shaft toward one end or the other. I suppose oil pressure might.

I managed to get to the storage trailer and check another 2 3ATs. Both have worn pump drive splines. Seems to be a common weak point. It really makes me wonder what is going on in there. Splines shouldn't wear.

My first guesses for the smoke source are the vacuum modulator or the throttle body gasket or intake manifold gaskets. If I had a place to store it, I'd buy it. There are companies that routinely ship cars. About 1000.00 for a coast to coast haul. No rust bodies are rare. I'm luck I have 2 right now. I resealed the engine on both recently, and now am swapping the transmission on the second. next up, repairing a couple of 3ATs.

if you do the mod I suggested above, you don't have to worry about the resistors burning out. Over 20 years on my modded ones.

Have you tried cranking with the gas pedal floored? This is the clear a flooded engine procedure. I've had a few mysterious instances when one of mine died, wouldn't start, and this cleared it. It takes a fair amount of cranking. Related test - spray a second or 2 of carb cleaner into the intake boot through one of the smaller lines [pull off, and replace to do it] Try cranking with gas pedal part way down. If it fires and runs for a burst, you have spark and timing. If you have an ohmmeter, you can [and should] test the CTS, especially a used one.

I'm pretty sure that the radio bracket is separate from the dash. I'll have to look at my parts car, if enough of the snow is gone. ..

There's not normally any electronic box in the back of a wagon. I've seen trailer light converters there.

I have had an alternator partially fail in a way that put a low current load on the battery. Still worked otherwise, but it would drain the battery. The wire size would not effect this.

You could try paralleling 2 of the batteries from the shop, preferably from the same group / machine or whatever they came out of, so they are in the same state of age and cycle life.

Code 14 is fuel injector abnormal output. 21 is water temp sensor open or shorted. That would do it. It is the 2 wire sensor under the thermostat. Screws into the casting.

Get a fuel pressure gauge. Make up a tee and put it in the line. See what it does during normal and failure modes...

From the data sheet, the maximum charge rate is 96/4 = 24 Amps. Maximum charging voltage = 13.8V I would not parallel it with a car battery. It should have a separate charge controller. If you decide to just wire it in parallel, measure the current that will flow between the batteries with the car off. Be aware, it could be moderately high. It's ok to parallel identical type size and age batteries. Not so good for combinations. One will never fully charge, or one will get too much overcharge. Both cases are not good for the batteries.

Other general deep cycle battery stuff. Deeper cycles shortens life. Lead acid battery life is typically 5 years. Under ideal conditions. End of life is usually something like 70% of rated capacity. Once you get past this, the self discharge rate climbs, and the capacity drops more and more rapidly. This is not reversible. You can likely look up the detailed spec sheets for the battery online on the manufacturer's website.

looks like a 12V, by the cell dividers showing through the plastic, and the vents. It won't hurt to put a charger on it, see what it does. The charge voltage on these is a bit lower than a car battery, and they are more sensitive to overcharge. I ran a deep cycle marine battery in my car while I was building my house. Ran an inverter for power. Found that even by only drawing about half the AH capacity every other day, the alternator would not keep it charged even with 1Hr of driving every day. I had to attach a line powered charger every night when I got home from the house.

The roll pin is not meant to take any stress from rotation. The splines should fit very close. The post above sounds like a good idea to check.

I don't have a mpfi. But if I had to remove bolts that have not been turned in many years, I would take a drive to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then upon returning to the workshop, immediately loosen the bolts in question.

Sounds like the Coolant temperature sensor. It has 2 wires, screws into the housing under where the thermostat is.

These last 2 posts pretty much sum up what I remember seeing discussed about these sort of changes in the past. If you want the challenge of doing the mods, I understand that. If the desired result is more power, EJ will do that with more reliability, and it seems to me a similar amount of work.

Ok, I found it. In section 6 of the FSM. Fuses are numbered starting at the top left fuse = 1. 3 rows of 8 fuses [except 3 blank ones on the last / bottom row]