DaveT

Check that all the duel, vapor recovery, lines and vent are clear. T a fuel pressure gauge into the line.

I guess I should get the dust off the one I have and verify what version it is...

The e brake works through levers on the front calipers. All of the 4WD wagons I've had have auto adjusters on the back brakes. They adjust when you go backwards, and hit the brakes. If they were rusty and stuck, that would probably make the pedal lower progressively as they wear.

I have not seen ABS on any Loyales. You are correct, hill l holder is an option on standard shift transmissions. Check all the brake hoses by looking at them while someone else mashes the pedal. There is a balancing valve of some sort mounted under the car near the tube that the rear wheel arms attach to. I do not know if it can cause your problem.

When you checked power to the coil, are you measuring at the 2 terminals on the coil?

don't worry about the code 35, it won't cause the problem. Fix it later. I've been running these cars since 1988, never had a bad ECU. But that doesn't mean it can't happen. With your list of items, I guess I'd swap one out, but I have lots of spare parts. It makes troubleshooting a lot easier.

Fuel pump runs in start position. For a short burst when switch set from off to run. Or when the engine is running

Also the Coolant temperature sensor can make the idle jump around and be random. Factory service manual is best by far. The A/C compressor should run wether the system is charged or not, there is no lockout for that condition. You cannot fully charge the A/C unless the compressor is running.

I'm curious to see if the colors match up. I have not had time to try to look at mine. Possibly this weekend

Are you referring to using a second combination wrench to make a longer handle? I use that trick sometimes.

This is a very old thread. . What are you looking for / dealing with?

Front wheel bearing seal. Inner and outer.

From what I can see so far, the pump shaft just goes into the pump spline. The only thing other than the splines at each end is a seal [Could be a seal, or maybe just a spacer to make it possible to slip the torque converter on. ] near the torque converter end. I've looked at the pump shafts in 5 3ATs at this point. Mileage range from a bit under 100,000 to a bit over 200,000. Only my 86 has no significant wear. It has a different gear ratio on the final drive and diff. I doubt that is related. It's not that different, just different enough to make a car feel logy and slow compared to the other ones. That one, I'll keep everything together, and investigate changing the final drive and diff to make it compatible with my others.

1st 2 things that come to mind - Plug wires 2 and 4 swapped. I did this once to an older Subaru engine. It ran really rough, but it ran. Quick harmless test, swap the plug wires on 2 & 4. Other that might do this - timing belt - did you turn the crankshaft 1 full turn before installing the second belt? I never tried this, but others have. I am not sure exactly if an EA82 would try to run this way, or be backfiring and generally not run.

It is odd though - only the pump end gets the wear. The torque converter end is like new. There is nothing mechanical that holds the shaft toward one end or the other. I suppose oil pressure might.

I managed to get to the storage trailer and check another 2 3ATs. Both have worn pump drive splines. Seems to be a common weak point. It really makes me wonder what is going on in there. Splines shouldn't wear.

My first guesses for the smoke source are the vacuum modulator or the throttle body gasket or intake manifold gaskets. If I had a place to store it, I'd buy it. There are companies that routinely ship cars. About 1000.00 for a coast to coast haul. No rust bodies are rare. I'm luck I have 2 right now. I resealed the engine on both recently, and now am swapping the transmission on the second. next up, repairing a couple of 3ATs.

if you do the mod I suggested above, you don't have to worry about the resistors burning out. Over 20 years on my modded ones.

Have you tried cranking with the gas pedal floored? This is the clear a flooded engine procedure. I've had a few mysterious instances when one of mine died, wouldn't start, and this cleared it. It takes a fair amount of cranking. Related test - spray a second or 2 of carb cleaner into the intake boot through one of the smaller lines [pull off, and replace to do it] Try cranking with gas pedal part way down. If it fires and runs for a burst, you have spark and timing. If you have an ohmmeter, you can [and should] test the CTS, especially a used one.

I'm pretty sure that the radio bracket is separate from the dash. I'll have to look at my parts car, if enough of the snow is gone. ..

There's not normally any electronic box in the back of a wagon. I've seen trailer light converters there.

I have had an alternator partially fail in a way that put a low current load on the battery. Still worked otherwise, but it would drain the battery. The wire size would not effect this.

You could try paralleling 2 of the batteries from the shop, preferably from the same group / machine or whatever they came out of, so they are in the same state of age and cycle life.

Code 14 is fuel injector abnormal output. 21 is water temp sensor open or shorted. That would do it. It is the 2 wire sensor under the thermostat. Screws into the casting.

Get a fuel pressure gauge. Make up a tee and put it in the line. See what it does during normal and failure modes...