DaveT

You just have to take a lot apart. "rocker" covers off, timing belts and covers off. Cam carriers off. Intake off. Now you're at the heads.

Not a problem, if you don't ask, how do you find out?

No GL or loyale I know of has a center diff. They are 4WD, not all wheel drive.

The CEL is wired different than the other lights. I've had partial fail alternators cause multiple lights to glow dim. A bad diode or a worn out slip ring brush can do it.

The thermometer sensor (1 wire) for the dash gauge is on the thermostat housing. The coolant temperature sensor (2 wires) is there also. It is separate, and tells the ecu the engine temperature. The one on the radiator is only for the fan.

+1 ihscout54

It catches gasoline vapors that would escape into the air. If the system is working, those vapors are sucked into the intake, and help power the engine. Yeah, its only a tiny amount, but why throw it (the fuel) away?

The higher end Stant thermostats are good also. There is a thread about this. I've had no trouble with them.

A small amount of air is not the cause, it is a symptom. If the upper hose is mostly air, you won't hear gurgles or jiggle pin. In that case, open the cap and add coolant until full. Pinch the upper hose, with the cap off, air bubbles out, add coolant. When I deal with this kind of thing, I use water until I find the cause, unless it is winter.

Pinch and release it quickly multiple times with a hand. Listen very close, you may hear air, gurgles, or just the jiggle pin in a good quality thermostat. If the recovery bottle and cap, no leaks, good head gsdkets, etc. Is working correctly, a few drive cycles will get rid of small amount of air.

The thermometer I'm talking about you use to verify the temperature. Once you know the engine is at normal (I think it's 195f) you look at the stock gauge, and note where normal is.

Can't help with the carb part, been too long since I had one. The overheat. Is it pushing coolant into the overflow bottle? Is there air in the top radiator hose, even after a few full run / rest cycles? From my experiences, EA82 + low coolant overheat = blown headgasket/s in no time.

There are low cost electronic thermometers around with small sensors. Thermocouple type are best. Even a small meat thermometer would work. Put the sensor in one of the extra bolt holes in one of the heads. Add a little grease to make better thermal contact.

Seems to me like it would be excessively heavy.

There are 2 shafts that have seals between the transmission and the differential.

When I have a choice, I don't buy made in China.

I have run 6 of these GL / loyales. Some the temp gauge. normal is a bit over the first tick, not quite 1/4 of full scale. Some the normal is about 1/2 scale. Best to check with a thermometer.

The Coolant temperature sensor can cause starting and idling problems that come and go, without triggering the CEL. I had a problem years ago - the car would just die at idle / when I took my foot off the gas. A wire in the engine harness had broken. I think it was for the idle air control solenoid. Put a volt meter on the battery. Anything between 11 - 14 v It should run fine. Not nesisarily charging properly, but it should run and idle. Likely would run even lower, but I can't say for sure as I have never tested to find out how low it has to be before there are problems.

These are vacuum fluorescent displays. No light bulbs.

I had one engine that burned a lot of oil. Maybe similar amount. No smoke, ran great. Had catalytic on it, and it passed emissions, much to my surprise. Just barely. The history of that engine was that it had been overheated with low coolant at one time, worst incident of that for me. When I did a reseal, I removed the pistons, to check for wear, etc. Every thing looked ok, clearances within limits, so I put it back together. And it burned oil like crazy. So I don't know if the oil rings were fried by the overheat, or didn't seal because I didn't hone or anything . I have other engines , so I decided I didn"t care about this one. I ran all my used oil in it. Old atf. Cheap oil. Always mixed new and old though. Ran it for a few years, until one of the heads cracked for no known reason. Once in a while, the oil consumptionwould reduce, but then go right back to crazy. Side note, 10w30 is too thin unless you are in extreme cold.

I posted more about it somewhere. Also add a diode so the capacitor is not discharged by the external wiring when the supply voltage drops.

Mine were occasionally forgetting the time. A few months ago, I did an upgrade to 2 of them. [i run 2 GL / Loyale wagons] One mod uses a switchmode power supply to eliminate the need for the resistor that overheats, and the other is an added capacitor to the constant power feed that keeps the time clock running. I have not had any forget the time glitchs since. From what I noticed, they would forget the time due to the voltage drop when the starter runs. I never did test specifically to be 100% sure that this is the cause, however.

If everything is not too chewed up, you might be able to re-stake it in place.

There are a couple of solder joints that overheat and fail. It is fixable.

Check the coolant temperature sensor.