DaveT

Some models have fuel gauges that have a mechanical brake to hold the reading when the power is off. All of the GL and Loyale wagons I've had have them.

The code for the purge valve is generated by an open in the wiring to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself. There is no way the ECU can tell if anything beyond that is there or functioning. Same is true for the EGR solenoid, code 34. The codes only check that the solenoid coil is there. So if the coil is solidly good, one of the 3 or so connectors, or wires that connect the ECU to the solenoid most likely has an open / bad contact. Theoretically, the ECU could have a failure, but I have yet to see that happen, since 1988. I noticed the pic above, of a white cylindrical connector. The back, where the wires come out, should have a red/ orange silicon rubber seal to keep moisture out. If it is missing, the contacts may be corroded. I am not sure which wires / signals are in that connector, but it's something to look out for.

The wire is no big deal, as long as it does not short out to anything. I have used the Bosch sensor from NAPA for these engines without trouble. The 35 to 40 ohms should be ok. There could be a break in a wire, or bad contact in a connector.

For the snapped bolt, weld a washer to it, the vise grips can unscrew it. The idler.... there are other thread repair things. with bigger od. So you can re drill bigger . But you need to do something to guide the drill. McMaster carr and MScdirect.Com are likely sources.

The parking brake / emergency brake lever pushes the piston to press the pads against the rotor. Thus also the fluid will be moved.

Yes. The power steering pump can stay in place.

I've rebuilt them. New bearings with contact seals, swapped brushes from spares, etc. I have a link to a parts place somewhere, don't have it here. If I don't post it later, remind me.

Just in case my initial reply seemed snarky or something, it wasn't meant that way. I have been surprised a couple of times, with some obscure variant or the like.

You just have to take a lot apart. "rocker" covers off, timing belts and covers off. Cam carriers off. Intake off. Now you're at the heads.

Not a problem, if you don't ask, how do you find out?

No GL or loyale I know of has a center diff. They are 4WD, not all wheel drive.

The CEL is wired different than the other lights. I've had partial fail alternators cause multiple lights to glow dim. A bad diode or a worn out slip ring brush can do it.

The thermometer sensor (1 wire) for the dash gauge is on the thermostat housing. The coolant temperature sensor (2 wires) is there also. It is separate, and tells the ecu the engine temperature. The one on the radiator is only for the fan.

+1 ihscout54

It catches gasoline vapors that would escape into the air. If the system is working, those vapors are sucked into the intake, and help power the engine. Yeah, its only a tiny amount, but why throw it (the fuel) away?

The higher end Stant thermostats are good also. There is a thread about this. I've had no trouble with them.

A small amount of air is not the cause, it is a symptom. If the upper hose is mostly air, you won't hear gurgles or jiggle pin. In that case, open the cap and add coolant until full. Pinch the upper hose, with the cap off, air bubbles out, add coolant. When I deal with this kind of thing, I use water until I find the cause, unless it is winter.

Pinch and release it quickly multiple times with a hand. Listen very close, you may hear air, gurgles, or just the jiggle pin in a good quality thermostat. If the recovery bottle and cap, no leaks, good head gsdkets, etc. Is working correctly, a few drive cycles will get rid of small amount of air.

The thermometer I'm talking about you use to verify the temperature. Once you know the engine is at normal (I think it's 195f) you look at the stock gauge, and note where normal is.

Can't help with the carb part, been too long since I had one. The overheat. Is it pushing coolant into the overflow bottle? Is there air in the top radiator hose, even after a few full run / rest cycles? From my experiences, EA82 + low coolant overheat = blown headgasket/s in no time.

There are low cost electronic thermometers around with small sensors. Thermocouple type are best. Even a small meat thermometer would work. Put the sensor in one of the extra bolt holes in one of the heads. Add a little grease to make better thermal contact.

Seems to me like it would be excessively heavy.

There are 2 shafts that have seals between the transmission and the differential.

When I have a choice, I don't buy made in China.

I have run 6 of these GL / loyales. Some the temp gauge. normal is a bit over the first tick, not quite 1/4 of full scale. Some the normal is about 1/2 scale. Best to check with a thermometer.