DaveT

+1 to what naru wrote.

Does it sound like a normal cranking rythm? RRrrRRrrRRrr? Or is it kind of uneven? The description you give is common for timing belt failure.

The cam pulleys are hard to turn by hand when you are at the position to open a valve. Normal.

I did this for my 93 Loyale. It had only idiot light for oil and no voltmeter. All of my earlier Loyales and GLs had all meters. you need to get the oil pressure sender for the engine, and move the wire from the switch sender. The same wire works for the signal. The voltmeter is just wired into the circuitry, so it will just work.

Ct failure can do that. Once you replace it, the CEL should go out.

What jono wrote

That dead, I'd think timing belt. Very surprised the pieces didn't take out the other one.

What amp rating of the fuse? Are you talking about a fuse from the battery to the relay contact? The other relay contact goes to the start terminal on the starter?

Especially if you are starting with a cat that was neglected, there is a bit of work to get it all back working properly. But then it should be good for a while. I've gone through a few cycles where I had to fix one thing then another, etc. But there have been long runs of almost nothing going wrong.

what kind of transmission? I mostly know the 3AT - s speed automatic,

The cracks are normal. I have never ran one that dry / hot. I have never seen clear signs of totally blown head gaskets by examining them after diss assembly. If it was run low on coolant, and heated over normal, that's it, the gaskets were damaged or blown, so you would be replacing them sooner or later. That's what I have experienced with these engines. I am not certain of this - but if it got so hot it stopped running, the piston rings might be damaged? What about the bearings?

My SPFI EA82 powered wagons with 3AT transmissions turn about 4000RPM at 65MPH. A little higher going uphill, a little lower down. They handle typical hills on the highways around here ok. I have one 3AT from an 86 which was carbed. It has slightly different ratios, and bogs down on hills noticeably, even with a SPFI engine.

All of the ea82 engines I've sent have a regular lip shaft seal for the oil pump shaft. There is a big o ring around the body of it that goes into the block. Also the mickey mouse o ring.

The small crack between the valves is very common in EA82 heads. There was a Subaru bulletin about it years ago.

If you are constantly loosing coolant, steady bubbles in the radiator with the cap off, that has always been blown headgasket in my experience. The bubble rate will get higher and higher the more you continue running it. You could cheat a few weeks or even months, but it's inevitable. Once you run over normal temp with low coolant, it's just a matter of time.

I've found most of the heads I've been running have the crack. Doesn't do anything noticeable. I did have one that developed a crack that got progressively worse, until it would drip 16 oz of water while sitting for several hours. The water leaked into the exhaust port.

I've found most of the heads I've been running have the crack. Doesn't do anything noticeable. I did have one that developed a crack that got progressively worse, until it would drip 16 oz of water while sitting for several hours. The water leaked into the exhaust port.

Tee a fuel pressure gauge into the system.

I checked one in a manifold I have loose here. It seems that the sensor is isolated from the housing, so the wires should not matter. You can double check with an ohm meter. If the meter shows open circuit to ground from both wires, it won't matter. The FSM has ohm readings for a few temperatures, so you could try connecting a fixed resistor for the current temp of the engine, but it will be wrong when the temp changes, obviously. It might be worth checking the resistance at the ECU connector pins also. a bad connection in the harness could cause bad readings also.

These cars do not run off vacuum bring in fuel from the tank. The pump must be running to supply fuel.

The reason I've recommended EJ it a few times was due to this: Person was asking about making more power. From years of reading about what various members have done, the limitations on the EA82 are mostly in the ports / heads / valves. Air passages too small. You could add a turbo, or supercharger, but neither of those are simple mods. Neither help the reliability of the engine. A 2.2 EJ has a lot of reliability, and a lot more power. A swap would be a big project, but so would the other 2 options. I've thought about doing a swap. But the low power of the EA82 helps keep me out of trouble. Replacing the timing belts costs me under $100.00. Name brand after market belts, and I buy high temp bearings to rebuild the idlers. I made rebuildable tensioners decades ago. I just did the belt on out Forester, and spent $500. for the belt and idlers. I did get those all from an online discount Subaru dealer, but still.

Look at uship.com

Time for the relay mod.

My only experience with a transmission slipping out of gear was an old truck. It would not stay in reverse. Unless I held the shifter. Then it completely stripped and no reverse at all.

Are you adding 4wd? Or giving up 4wd?