DaveT

Are you saying the suspension travels it's full range just by jumping off the bumper? Or is it making a noise when you move it some?

I have had bad luck replacing coolant hoses with fuel hoses. The material's chemical resistance is different for the different uses. I now use general purpose coolant hoses for the small ones from NAPA. Once you have the engine out and begin work, replace every coolant hose you find. Check the radiator closely, make sure all of the thin fins are still connected to the tubes that the coolant flows through. The cooling system is just big enough for these cars when in perfect condition. The head gaskets do not survive running the engine with low coolant, so checking the level often can save you bigger troubles.

I don't know about the cars from 85. But EA82 TBI / SPFI engines had a factory upgrade mod to fix a problem like this. A long high G turn would shift the oil to one side of the engine, and it would get sucked into the intake. The mod involved a bigger hose and a T to make the vents and routing the same for both rocker covers. Totally fixed the problem on my cars.

Watch the coolant level very closely.

Clutch springs are very strong. I would be surprised if you could release a clutch by hand using only the lever.

Coat the outside with Waxoyl.

It takes a good few hours to cool down to air temp.

It will rise while the engine is hot. It should return to the original level after cooling back down.

In my experience, the most common cause of coolant getting into the intake, is the intake manifold gaskets. Before any drives, check cooant, top off if needed. Watch the recovery bottle also. If it appears to gain coolant - after cooled back down - that's a sign of headgasket getting ready to fail.

If the white smoke didn't begin to lightning up, there may be a coolant leak into the intake. Be sure to check coolant level before every drive until you find the leak.

For major constant trouble codes, you can just look at the LED. It will sequence through them while the engine idles. The harness connectors do 2 things. 1 set is to go into dealer diagnostic mode which also displays intermittent codes that were stored in memory. The other set is used to clear the memory. There is a sequence of steps in addition to activate these modes. I don't have my fsm handy, and I don't have them memorized.

There are a few ways to loose coolant. Intake manifold gaskets. The o ring between the intake manifold and the throttle body. And head gaskets. A crack in a head. If there are air bubbles continuously coming out of the radiator, that's a blown headgasket. The others can leak into the engine or exhaust or to the exterior. Depending on the quantity, it can be hard to see because it evaporates. Head gaskets can also leak coolant out the side.

Yeah, I forget they can be a pain because I have always ended up having to remove them for one reason or another before they got that bad. And once I've removed them, they have anti seize and stainless nuts. If one stripped, it needed a Helicoil anyway..

Simple test. Unbolt the exhaust from the engine, so there is a half inch or so gap . Make sure something will hold it there. Rig some wire or whatever. Take a short drive. It will be loud. If you have power, the exhaust os blocked.

The cat /s not working has no effect on the engine - except in the case of the core getting blocked or breaking loose and blocking the flow of exhaust. I had one break loose, suddenly had very low power. Idle or very light load seemed normal.

Loyales have 2 cats. Yes, the temp should be higher after each one. Your second one may or may not be partially blocked, but it is not working.

I guess the one that tricked me had some other thing out of whack a bit. Like maybe the flasher was weak? It's long gone now, due to rust. But replacing the bulb in the bumper got it working again. visual inspection of fuses and light bulbs is not guaranteed accurate. I've seen plenty that look fine, but are open circuit. Since the bulb lights, it is not burned out. This all did bring back to me, a though that went through my mind a while back - I don't remember the last time I had to replace one of these exterior bulbs. Before I got my first EA82 GL, I remember them being a fairly common thing to have to replace periodically.

It takes quite a while. Scared I'll kill the battery before it starts kind of thing. For my EA82s that is. I've only had it happen 2 or 3 times since 1988. I am not certain about the EJ. And this only applies if everything checks out - spark, fuel, timing belt is correct. I've also used a 1 second shot of carb cleaner into the intake to help test / clear this. It usually takes a number of tries, but gradually, you get a sputter, then a little more, etc....

If the ATF is disappearing the vacuum modulator is most likely leaking it into the intake. You won't see smoke until it starts leaking a lot.

Flooded. Hold gas pedal fully down. Crank. A lot. In bursts, not continously. Like 5 seconds or so.

Here is one thing to check that fooled me years ago - if the bulb in the front bumper burns out, the signal won't blink.

Yes it may still be cleaning out the ATF. I'm not familiar with the details of a turbo model. The only things I can think of that may be hurt burning a lot of ATF would be an O2 sensor and catalytic converter. If the car was being run like that long enough. Once you get it legal, a good drive or 2 should clear it up. It could probably use new sprk plugs anyways too.

The last time I bought them, NAPA had ones that looked like stock.

Oh, since the cylinder with the bent push rods has odd valves, check the length of the push rods also.

It would not be unheard of for someone to pour a bit of oil in each cylinder before long term storage.