DaveT

R12 is used in refrigerators & freezers because the boiling point is more efficient for the colder temperatures required. R22 is usually used for room AC. R 12 was used in cars to get more cooling with smaller equipment - space saving.

Try a 1 to 2 second shot of carb cleaner in the throttle body, then crank. If it fires, you have a fuel problem. Other thing to try, hold gas pedal about half way down and crank.

Check that the axle nut is tight.

There is a hole in a little piece on top of the passenger side strut tower. You pop the hood stay out of it's normal location, put it in that hole, lift the hood almost vertical, and the other end fits in the slot near the usual hole you normally use.

What about using a mirror? I so dislike modern engines....

Aside from doing whatever you need to remember everything to reconnect. Afrwr removing the motor mount bolts, get a jack under the transmission, lift it an inch. When you are trying to get the engine off of the transmission, or putting back together, the crankshaft and transmission input shaft have to be in a straight line relative to each other. If you have a standard shift, the clutch splines have to align. It should not take a lot of force either way. It's just something that takes a little getting used to, trying to get a heavy thing precisely moved. Sometimes the pins between the engine and transmission can be crusty making removal a little sticky. Clean them up before re assembly.

Ok from what I see in the listing, they should be real OEM. The list of engine displacements sounds ok. The newer EA82 series only had 1.8s in the US, as far as I know. So it sounds like they are for older engines. The OEM ones I bought recently for my EA82 rebuilds are black, and have a slippery feel to them. They also have metal reinforcing in an inner layer. I do not know if the older ones were made this way.

Some things you won't find, just fill out the contact form with what you want.

Subaru-parts-dealer.com

IF it is like the newer EA82 powered cars, there is a connector or 2 that is getting higher resistance. There are several in the wire rout from the fuse box to the starter. I gave up trying to find them. I did the relay mod. There are a few threads on adding a start relay. The clocks are also notorious for clearing and also just not lighting. I added a capacitor and a diode to the always powered wire to the clock. No resets since.

I have had 2 battles with the p0420 code on my 01 Forester. Sensors did not help. New cat solved it one time. The other time, one of the brackets had snapped, and rubbed a small hole in the pipe. Patched the hole, and cleared the codes. Passed.

I'll have to rely on someone familiar with EA81s for specifics - But yes, do the valve seals. You need to rig something to compress the springs to remove the keepers. If you leave the valves in place, do them 1 at a time, no worries about mixing them up. I've lapped them on a few engines, but it didn't seem very necessary. You need to resurface the heads, either DIY with the post apocalyptic method, or a machine shop can do it for $. You may have to touch up the block surfaces also. This all can be done on the car, it's just a lot easier to do on a stand. I think I did my first one on the car. I now have the equipment, and spare engines, so I get one ready, then do a swap. Since your engine runs, when you are ready to disassemble it, run it to normal operating temperature. Think this all through, and plan and have tools ready before you start - the idea is to do this all while the engine is still as warm as possible. If you are running a normal pressure radiator cap, release the pressure first. Then loosen the intake manifold bolts VERY carefully. Do this ASAP after shutdown. Once they start to turn freely, you can move to the next one. And the head bolts. If you try to remove them cold, the risk of snapping one is a lot higher. I had one intake bolt so crudded up that it would not pull out of the intake manifold clearance hole, but it unscrewed from the block. I worked it out gradually later.

OEM are supposed to be re torqued. Fel Pro permatorque don't need to be.

can't answer directly, but maybe this helps? All of the radiators I have have the lower neck angled up and to the side a little. I have used this style in everything from a 1986 to a 1993. I did come across one radiator with a different angle on the lower port, but it was too long ago to remember. The style with the angled up neck uses the same hose for the upper and lower connection to the engine. I've had EA82 wagons from 86, 87, 88, 90, 92, 93. No turbos, but I have used turbo radiators in most of them also.

This is how I do under car work.

Oem or Gates. Don't mess with timing belts.

That sucks! I'd try to save it. I don't care if the insurance totals it. They won't pay what it's worth anyway. Obviously, you have to remove the bumper and fender, see what else is bent. Look at the roof line, and the doors and the frame under them. If that stuff looks ok, it's a lot easier. All of the engine stuff is fixable / replaceable. My 86, my wife was driving, hit a big old American car. It was more of a corner hit, pushed the driver's side wheel all the way back till the rim bent on the frame part the door mounts to. I didn't try to save it, since there were plenty of them around back then. But I decided to use it around my lot for a while, so I took it apart, beat stuff back into shape. Replaced the suspension parts. Never took it on the road. The frame was bent, there was a ripple in the roof. But it did work again.

wow. Nuts.

I've always thought they were 12.

I've bought the water pumps from NAPA. Get the best quality level. I have thought about rebuilding them. Have to figure out where to get the seals. I'm pretty sure that the bearings are standard size. Don't know if the coolant really hurts the belts. But the leak will lead to hurting headgaskets.

Hopefully a couple of the guys with weber can add to this. I think they can help a little with power. Switching to the SPFI system gets you something like 10hp, but it's a lot of work, since you need the computer and all that too. Porting is tons of work for very small gains from what I've read over the years here. Not sure if raising the compression is a good idea. Easy enough to get pinging as is. Headgaskets and cooling system are sensitive also. Cooling system is just adiquit for the stock engine.

These cars are on the slow side, but that sounds a bit slower than normal. Keep in mind, if you put tires that are bigger od on it, it will be slower. Check all the typical tune up things, check for obstruction of the intake and exhaust. Consider replacing the water pump while doing the reseal.

There are a good number of threads about modding ea82 engines. You have to spend a lot of cash and time to get small improvements. Is yours carb, or SPFI?

The cam lobes leave more than 1/2 of the rotation where there is no lift, so being dead on TDC shouldn't be an issue for closing. Just turn a bit past when both valves are closed. That's what I did with my 1976 when I adjusted the rockers. I never had one with hydraulic lifters and adjusters. Theoretically, just roughly back where they were should be ok. It seems odd to me that you could not get both sides to be similar, even using an incorrect procedure.

Yes, assuming everything is original, there are pressure dampers every where. They are not regulators. There is one built right on an original fuel pump. I've had them rot out and leak. I came up with a mod to remove them and use an extra line Mounted one from a parts car.