DaveT

It just quit. I was pulling out of a parking lot, not really flooring it, and the engine revved under no load. Absolutely no warning or other symptoms before it failed. Since then, I've looked at all but one of the 6 or so I have, and all but one is showing signs of wear on the pump end. The torque converter ends are fine. There is no slop in the pump in one transmission I disassembled to get familiar with the internals, yet it has the same wear indications [not stripped] The failed one had a bit over 200K miles. The one from my 86 has NO indication of wear on the splines, it looks like the new shafts I bought. It has around 200K on it also. I could not find any pieces of the missing splines either, much to my surprise.

I added a picture of the drive shafts on my other 3AT thread. The other pics seem to be working.

Pump drive shafts:

I'll have to look tonight, or repost the pics I put on my thread.

It's about 2 feet long. I have pictures on a thread about 3ATs on this forum.

I have had that same thing, new aftermarket modulator shift too soon. I've been driving them for years,using the shifter to allow up shifts when I want them. I've put over 200 miles on a few 3ATs. Watch the spline on the pump end of the oil pump drive shaft. They strip out.

I have both complete, an 86 and a 90 fsm. There is a difference in final drive ratios. I also have 3ATs transmissions from 88,89,90,92,93. They are the same, except the earlier ones have a different shape to the pan. The main part that seems to wear out is the pump drive shaft. Watch ebay for a real fsm is the best bet, I think. I recently bought parts from Subaru. Some are no longer available. There is a rebuild kit that is great, even has both versions of the pan gasket. It's not cheap, but it has all the little seals and stuff, including a few items that are no longer available separately.

I thought it odd they would use those for valve covers. I haven't worked on a Subaru engine with those for head bolts. That's why I was sticking with only geneeal information.

How long did you do it what grit? It takes a looong time when I've done it just to get the fire ring marks out.

I'd do it after getting the engine up to normal operating temperature also.

I've seen 12 point bolts on construction equipment. Seemed like grade 8 or other high strength grade.

I've had good results rebuilding the idlers on my ea82 engines. Made rebuildable tensioners. I go to a local bearing supply shop. Order bearings with contact seals, and high temperature grease. Big name brand name only, no made in China crap. The whole interference engine thing does add a layer of nervous to the idea.

You could try disconnecting the wire to the pump. See if it still happens.

Check the coolant before every drive for a while at least. After a handful of drive cool cycles, it should stabilize. Check 2 ways - squeeze the upper hose sharply, hear jiggle pin in the thermostat, also listen for gurgling of air. check the level in the overflow bottle.

Oem from a dealer, or one of the highest grade Stant brand only. Stock is around 190 degrees. I have Stant ones in my cars now. One at standard temp, one at 180. There is a noticeable lowering of the heater output. But the cooler temp might be easier on seals and the like. Being diligent about monitoring coolant is important to avoid bigger repairs.

Right rear. Fuel pump is over there, just forward of the wheel. Washer pump is on the left.

They did use different ratios in some years / models. I have 1 3AT that has a different ratio than all the others I have. It is from an 86 4wd GL wagon. My others are 88, 90, 92, 93, 89. From comparing the charts in the fsms, all of the gear ratios in the gears are the same, just the final reduction and difffentials are different. I never looked at the various standard transmissions ratios.

31 isn't cold. One advantage of synthetic is that it doesn't overly thicken when cold. Once it's running, your engine is at 190 with a stock thermostat. The coldest I sometimes see is -15 here. Before I had a garage the synthetic makes a small difference in cranking speed in the morning. Having the largest battery that fits in the space, and 5 years or less age probably matters more here. The usual cross reference charts point to a battery a size or 2 smaller than I run.

How cold does it get? I run synthetic 10w 40 all year. In ea82 engines.

The thinner the metal,the more skill is required. 1/4" and up is pretty easy to learn on. 1/8" took more practice. Thinner gets pretty challenging for beginners. 1/16 and under is still a challenge. I also found that the cheap welders made it more difficult. The importance of good fit up and clean metal goes up as the work gets thinner. The position also matters, flat welding from the top is the easiest, vertical and from underneath are more challenge.

that would do it. Good to see you making progress

Ouch, that would be hard to fix. Glad you are ok.

If it's rust free, and only 129k miles, and you like it, fix or swap the engine . The lower costs of running an older car go a long way.

There's plenty of sources of pretty much anything around here. Not painting the entire car. A few touch ups here and there. A fender. If I go the route of buying a real setup, I'd end up getting a quality setup. I've used a few cheap tools, won't buy them.

Look for higher milage cars. Lots of people are spooked by high milage, and pay premium prices for low milage. I found a local guy who buys the cars dealers don't want, goes through the driveline, does the head gaskets and everything. Knows which models go forever, and the few to avoid. Paid less than a used car dealer, really clean body, nothing much to worry about for 100,000 miles.