DaveT

Just guessing. .. check the coolant temperature sensor.

Sometimes a post will get pushed down the page by high traffic. I didn't see the original until just now. I would have to find a factory service manual to look up what to check for that code in that year.

You can test for a blocked exhaust by loosening the 4 y pipe to head nuts. Get about 1/2" of clearance, see how it runs. It will be loud. But if it runs good, then you know the exhaust is plugged. Another way to check is to connect a vacuum cleaner to the tail pipe end. Do tye same with the 4 bolts, get space for air to get in. Canister or shop vac style. The vacuum cleaner motor should barely change it's tone when connected vs disconnected from the tail pipe.

I've hauled a 15' tree on my full length roof rack....

The only spark happens when key is shut off thing.... sounds like what would happen if the breaker points (or thier electronic equivalent ) were failed shorted. The high voltage pulse that makes the spark happens when current through the primary of the ignition coil is interrupted.

Merry Christmas!

I may have missed something. I thought it was dieing at idle.

You may know this, but I'll add it for anyone new who may not realize it. The coolant temp sensor is separate from the sensor for the temperature gauge. The CTS is the one that can effect engine running, and it can fail without causing the ECU to show a code.

The original description does not sound like brakes. I've forgotten to release the parking brake once or twice in my life. The brakes don't get grabby when they get hot, they smell bad, and become less effective. I'll add, I set the parking brake every time I am parking the car.

I had one where the engine would idle down to zero sometimes. The wire to the IAC valve had fractured, inside the insulation. Narrowed it down to the harness on the engine with an ohm meter. Didn't find the break until I unwrapped the harness. Can't say that this is definitely your problem, but it shows how sneaky these things can be.

I have / had a 90, 92, 93 Loyales. All 4wd wagons, 3AT transmissions. In the US. There may have been other options?

Before replacing stuff that was already replaced... check the idle air valve and it's wiring.

Sounds like you got things back together. Something is very wrong if you have to drive a roll pin with much more than moderate firm tapping... There are very few things to use the "get a bigger hammer" technique on with these cars, and those are usually last ditch destructive disassembly. 6 point sockets - good ones - help a lot with these old stuck bolts. The o ring can be used like an elastic to help hold the end closed / in place. But all of the ones I remember seeing have steel spring clips holding the boot.

If you run a 3AT in 4wd on dry ground, you will feel drag. Do it long enough, wear something out. Probably the clutch Pack that enables drive power to the rear. I once had one that was run with no gear lube in the front diff too long. The pinion bearings failed, allowing the pinion to move forward and hit the diff carrier when engine braking was allowed to happen. That made for some horrible jerkyness and horrible sounds. Got it home by never allowing the engine to slow the car. The seals failed by then, and the last of the atf go t i to the diff. just as I pulled it into my garage.

I've looked a few times, can't find that thread...

A few key things - resurface the heads is a must. There is a thread about DIY on the forum, or machine shop. Fel pro or OEM headgaskets only. Has the engine ever been overheated while low on coolant?

NAPA had the axle seals separately the last time I bought them. Here is a pic of one side of an EA82 power steering rack with tie rod and tie rod end.

For the rack boot, I'd take a close look at the spare one, if it looks ok, try to remove it. I can look at a spare on tomorrow.

I have worked a little new grease into the bearings without removing them. GL 2 grease. I happen to use Amsoil, don't know for sure what other types are compatible. If they are not making noise, it wouldn't hurt much to add a little, see what happens, and gather parts to redo them later. It will take time for them to fail. Normally, the bearings are removed from the knuckle, cleaned, re greased, and re installed. With new seals. I have been running EA82 wagons since 1988. Have not had one wheel bearing fail. I have cleaned and repacked the bearings sometimes when replacing an axle, but not always.

I have never heard of a car alternator failure cause any such problems. Typically, once the battery is depleted, the car stops running. Nothing permanent. Lots of smoke. White sweet smelling, or blueish oil smelling? A 92 is passed due for a reseal. There are oil passages that supply oil to the lifters and cams, and they pass through the heads, so there are a few places they develop leaks, in addition to the cam and crank seals just being dried out. Usually, the cam seals are the leakers, but they are just one of the leak points. I've had many years running these models where I would go for long runs with nothing but minor repairs. Once you get everything put right, it should be good for a long while. If you reseal the engine, the most important thing to do before driving it is thoroughly evaluating the entire cooling system.

I am confused. A lot of questions about tie rods. Then pictures of axles, CVJ, and DOJs.

It's nice to have a real stereo in a car again.

I have bought from subaru-parts-dealer.com With good results. Very helpful finding obscure parts also. I won't buy Chinese knockoff stuff if I know it ahead of time. Have to be very careful on ebay and Amazon to be sure they are really selling what they say they are selling.

I do no t know for this newer engine, but my experience with EA82s is that 3/4 overheat with low coolant is all it takes to damage headgaskets. The real test is to monitor coolant level like a hawk [every drive cycle] for at least a week. If coolant is going away, and there are no other leaks, or coolant is always pushed into the recovery, not a good sign.

I saw the OP. I tried to think of an idea... But nothing came to mind right away. Pictures might have helped. Also, I just never had to do that sort of repair before - it's one of those things I'd figure out best on site. I have a gantry crane and a backhoe, which have changed how I approach many projects.