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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. Nuts. I did something sort of like that years ago. Put a 3/4" id 10 foot piece of pvc Condit diagonally across inside my wagon. Closed the back, No problem. Another trip, I buy a 2" id 10 foot piece. It doesn't bend as Much as the 3/4... looked like it fit and all, but when I closed the back, I cracked the windshield.
  2. Since 1988 I have used grease and antisieze on those parts. Not once have I had a problem with anything loosening. And they come apart again the next time service is needed.
  3. Yes the 13" is the base of the seat, not the top edge of the lip that keeps the tire from popping off the rim.
  4. That sounds correct. I remember making 1/8" thick spacers to use a couple of old rims on a newer (86) gl. It was due to the brakes hitting the inside of the rim. I don't remember why I wanted to do it however.
  5. I have had wobble like that. Gets bigger while slower, fades to near zero on the highway. Found that part of the tread on a front tire was separated from the steel belts. Turned out both front tires had the sam problem. Swapped them for another pair, and a week or so later, same thing. The alignment was too far out. Adjusted it, swapped on another pair, and no problem. The car steered better also.
  6. I recently bought a pair of the sachs ones. The only other source of adjustable ones I ever saw was Subaru.
  7. Yes, find the leak. Failing headgaskets usually push coolant out, air into the reservoir. Check ALL of the several coolant hoses, not just the radiator hoses. You may have a small leak to the exterior that lands on the hot engine, and evaporates before you see it. Does this model of engine have intake gaskets that share coolant and intake passages like EA82s? And / or a coolant passage between the throttle body and manifold?
  8. Big washers from a hardware store . Maybe a pipe fitting or 2. ? I'd have to go make a few measurements to be specific.
  9. If the radiator hoses are due for replacement, then so are the other handful of coolant bypass hoses and heater hoses.
  10. If the intake manifold gaskets get leaky, coolant gets sucked into the intake. Or leaks out on top of the engine. There is no pressure to push air into the coolant system. You do end up with some air, since during cool down, the coolant system draws negative pressure. This would pull coolant from the overflow tank normally. These typical headgasket failures when they are still in the realm of small / slow leaks do not show up with a compression test.
  11. Stack on a combi, use the axle nut. Back off, change the stack, repeat.
  12. I use a combination of extra cone washers and the spacers from between the bearings from a parts car.
  13. I have not done this. Did you try a drive shaft repair shop? 2 ways I can think of. Find a shaft longer from another vehicle that fits snugly inside or outside of the original. A good fit should keep it aligned and straight. Weld. Get balanced at a drive shaft shop. Cut the short one. Get a piece of another, again. Just bigger or smaller than the original and use it to make the extension. Weld. Get balanced as above.
  14. The puller I have looks like it's 7Ton. I've run into things it won't move. Glad it worked out.
  15. A smaller power tool with a cutoff disk. The bearing is probably ruined now anyway. So destroying it to save the shaft makes sense. I think if I had one that stuck, I'd try to find a way to clamp and protect the axle end in a vise. Hammer on the outer race. Or find a big bearing splitter and puller to do it the more conventional way. I have a medium sized set, which works for normally tight ones.
  16. I have access to CAD program, Solidworks. I have modeled some plastic parts, and had prototypes printed for work. They are better now than even a few years ago. Nicer finish costs more. Better stronger plastic costs more. Still have to hand sand and that sort of thing to get things to look like they were injection molded.
  17. For a long time, I carried a set of new ones in the car.
  18. I have an adapter that goes from a he drive to square socket drive. Check it in a drill. Put a 12mm socket on it. Use it to spin the oil pump until you feel it load up. Note: this is done before installing the long timing belt.
  19. Usually the longer one. Has more load on it. Oil pump.
  20. Maybe a long shot, but I had random idle jumping in one of my older Subarus, it was caused by an intermittent coolant temperature sensor.
  21. Never use impact on steel bolts in aluminum. I got fed up with the aftermarket exhaust stuff rotting out, and oem too spendy. So I fabricated all stainless systems for my 2 wagons. Anti seize on everything. No more exhaust hell. I have not done the mufflers yet, since the ones I have were still good.
  22. intermittent problems are a pain..... Coolant temperature sensor [2 wires, screws into thermostat housing on the intake manifold] - check it. I haven't seen one stall the car, but they can make starting tough. check ECU for codes. What I would do: Fuel pressure gauge Teed into the line at the throttle body. Voltmeter / or other indicator/s tapped into the various required circuits to watch for failure.
  23. I'm in the USA, so my references are that way. The big nail or punch needs to be almost as big diameter as the OD of the roll pin. I've read a story or 2 where someone got a very small punch stuck. I have always re used the roll pins. They are only there to keep the end from slipping off the splines, and don't see any real load under normal circumstances. I've not had any rusty ones, since there have always been enough oil leaks to prevent that.
  24. I have spare axles and knuckles for our 2001 Forester. I'm trying to find out if they are the same as those on a 2009 Forester. The hubs I suspect are different, since the 09 has big Al wheels, and the 01 has steel wheels.

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