DaveT

And watch the coolant level very closely. Overheat is bad for headgaskets.

Check timing belts first. Especially if the sound it makes cranking is not the normal pattern.

How is it for rust? Where is it?

That looks like the same color as my 87.

Things. Check timing? I had a blocked cat once, didn't cause overheat, but talk about no power... was coolant getting pushed out of the radiator? Put 10psi on the cooling system - does it hold?

The transmission is out of a 1987 wagon. It was very rusted. It ran ok when I got it, was going to use it as a winter / beater car. I put in a new clutch. Almost got it registered. Then I got another in better condition, so I registered it instead. The 87 still had way more value in parts for me to keep my others going than I could get selling it, so I disassembled it and sold the sheet metal for scrap. The 4 speed trans has been stored in my climate controled basement ever since. I think the car had between 100 and 150k miles. I am in CT.

You would want the front harness,ECU, and intake and related bits off a SPFI. I have a 4x4 hi lo transmission and clutch and flywheel I don't need . I should have the rear diff around also.

Safe to say with that many miles and years on the pump, the seal is shot.

TOD comes and goes, until the cause gets bad. 10 w 30 is thin and doesnt help for an ea82 unless you are in very cold climate. How many miles and years are on the oil pump and it's seal? These engines are made to spin fast, not lug. If I'm near wide open throttle at 3000rpm, I often downshift. Most of the stones in a can rattles I've had were loose beat shields on the exhaust. A small exhaust leak can sound similar to TOD, but will dissappear instantly any time you let go of the gas pedal, TOD won't. I've never had one come and go, just slowly get louder over time.

You may know this, but I have to ask, because it could help other newbies reading this thread someday, how did you check the fuses? Visual inspection is not reliable.

+1 to naru.

The check valve is in the line between the manifold and the reservoir. It's a small plastic thing. Manifold-hose-valve-hose-reservoir.

I guess it could work... check and recheck that everything will clear. Same with blocking / cribbing the engine and driveline and suspension parts. If your hydraulics hold steady. And you are skilled at find adjustments with the hoe position.

The heat will likely cause it to soften, and increase the likelihood of it kinking. The incompatibility failure is a longer term issue.

01 Outback wrote: "Bottom line don't buy the cheapies...." Agree. Don't wast time.

Fuel line may not stand up to the chemicals in coolant. I made this mistake many years ago. Luckily, it failed when I was about a half mile from home.

Double check the spark plug wires. One of my first reseals, I had swapped a pair. It ran on 2 cylinders, but really bad.

The air vents changing is fixable. The check valve between the manifold and the reservoir is failing, or there is a leak in the system after it.

The ac 2 second run is to move oil and keep the seals and stuff oiled and free.

I should have noted that, yes, I'm referring to EA82s. Always seals on all valves.

There should be seals on all of the valves. The Fel Pro kits come with intake and exhaust seals.

Nothing you list suggests head gaskets. Coolant problems are the typical sign for head gaskets. 10w 40 oil. Idle when hot, the built in gauge typically shows what looks like zero. 45psi running down the highway at 4000rpm when hot is normal for my EA82 engines.

Ah, I couldn't see it on mobile. Whatever caused it to fall out, I wouldn't trust just putting it back in. I've never seen one do that.

What are you asking about? The gunk needs to be cleaned off, then resurface by using the post apocalyptic method Ora shop.

Another way to deal with this is to buy blank gasket sheet and cut your own. Some car parts stores have it, as well as suppliers like McMastercarr and MSdirect.