DaveT

The 3 marks for timing belt install are (very) roughly 180 degrees from the timing marks.

My examples are 34 to maybe 50. Probably the over speed limit around 5. Some might push to around 10. I usually push the shifter to 3 at the tpp of knoqn hills, so I don't know what the ultimate would be.

The hills around here, where the car will overspend the cruise setpoint, will over speed zero throttle unless you downshift. Most of these are on secondary roads, not multilane highways. This is my experience in automatics. 01 and 09 forester mostly, but any other random car I've ever driven also.

Oh, and piston rings... The headgasket failures I've had were all the small slow stream of bubbles in the overflow reservoir. Those don't show up on a compression test. Another thread on here, pointed out that if you can get a couple of moderately strong people, you can lift the engine out without a hoist or rigging.

I got it from one of the online discount Subaru parts dealers . I did have to clean the contacts on the lamp connectors. Put a tiny bit of copper antisieze on them too.

It was a little over 300.00. It was really nice not to have to do any customizing just to put them in, and it all went smoothly.

Somewhere I've seen it done. But not that way. The intake was replaced with 2 piece assembly - I believe to deal with the expansion difference between the entire block at operating temperature and the now cool manifold.

We got a 2009 Forester a couple weeks ago. I bought the fog light kit from Subaru. Today, I installed the fog light kit on the 09 Forester. Good parts- kit came with everything needed, including a new lever with the switch for the fog lights, and installed easy. Relay just plugged into an existing socket. Bad parts - have to remove the entire front plastic "bumper" & grille piece to install the lights. Aiming is a pain, since the adjuster screw is in the back, and all the covers get in the way. But the dumbest thing, is the way the switches control the lights. Grrr. All of my older Subarus have the headlights shut off if the ignition is switched off, so you cannot accidentally leave the lights on and kill the battery while parked. STUPID CHANGE. The Fog lights only light when the headlights are on. OK for helping in rain and other situations, but when you need fog lights the most - in heavy fog or snow - you actually want the headlights OFF. Grrr. Stupid design.

Intake gasket failure won't cause overheat. Unless you run it long enough to loose too much coolant. My experience has been overheat and you will need to replace headgaskets. Sooner or later, but it is inevitable. Running without oil, you probably need bearings and possibly grinding the crankshaft. Cam shaft bearing surfaces, oil pump. ....

Oh nuts, got mixed up. I've done a lot more on EA82s.

There may be some online scans. I've seen them on ebay sometimes. I bought mine from dealers a long time ago.

For oil pump priming - get a socket adapter that you can chuck in a drill. Spin the pump until you feel it load up, before installing the timing belt.

Here is a car with lifter tick. Of 1 lifter. Search "tick of death" for a few more.

Is it a deep knocking sound, or more of a thin tick / click? It's common for a lifter to stick, and the clicking / ticking is loud. Search "Tick of death" , there has been a lot of info about cause & fixing.

I've had a couple where the pulse damper on the end rotted out. Found a way to mod them, removing the damper, plugging the hole. I'll have to get some pics sometime.

For a temp guage, [or anything else] I would look around, local places, online, etc. Don't buy the cheapest. I try to avoid made in China crap. Actually, I should go looking for one for my Dynahoe.

Factory Service Manual probably has them, and how to adjust them.

You heard correctly. In addition to checking the radiator, check all 7 (for a non turbo) cooling system hoses. There may be more on a turbo

The electric fan is mounted on the passenger side of the radiator. The main fan is more driver's side, mounted on the water pump with a viscous clutch. At least on EA82 SPFI 4WD wagons.

To fix squealing belts - Get new belts, apply proper tension. Once they get slipped too many times, they are shot.

Yes, a steady oil leak can work well. I had a car a long time ago that had one, mostly on one side. That side was pretty rust free when I disassembled it for parts. Waxoyl is good for places you can't see, can't get at. It doesn't really dry hard, soaks into places, and stops whatever is rusting.

It's been too long for me since working on a carb, but that's not an adjustment issue. Something else has gone wrong / plugged , leaking, etc.

Waxoyl. A Web search should turn up info and where to buy.

Is the engine a 2.2 or a 2.5? It was overdue for timing belts and idlers, those are supposed to be done around 100 miles.

It's more volatile, so probably do similar.