DaveT

Passenger side, drive down to remove, drive down to install. Driver's side I set the pin at 45 degrees with the bottom toward the rear, top toward the front. Drive up from underneath from behind the wheel. Same direction on remove or install.

The roll pins are straight pins, not tapered. Oem shafts have a chamfer around one of the holes, makes it a bit easier to start the pin in. I have seen some shafts that do not have the chamfer. The real difference is that due to the number of splines, one hole lines up with a tooth, the other with a valley, so the pin can only be inserted if the shaft is on in the single correct position. I've used a steel gutter nail with the point cut flat to remove the pins, for decades.

You're welcome!

What I have done: Penetrating oil. Turn the nut upside down, or use a spare one with the same thread, etc. Use a piece of aluminum bar 1/8" to 1/4" thick as a "cushion" and hit it with a hammer. Wear an insulated glove to hold the aluminum. Might take a few hits, work up the impact level.

If it's cold outside, the bottom hose may be pretty cool if the radiator is good. Idleing and spinning 2k rpm with no load is not the same as driving load wise. The real test is to see what happens on a short drive, then a longer one, if no overheat or excess coolant is pushed into the overflow tank.

Sounds like bad pump.

Don't know for sure about fuel mileage, but the O2 sensor can fail in ways that don't throw a code and burn out the catalytic converter. I suspect it could though. I've always gotten around 20-22mpg with my 3AT wagons. But I use the gas pedal.

The wiring that triggers the starter solenoid to pull in, and crank the motor has many connectors in it;s path, and the ignition switch. One or more has developed a small amount of resistance, which prevents the solenoid from pulling in all the way. The high resistance is intermittent, so it varies, eventually gets to the point where it won't engage at all. The add on starter relay fixed both of mine.

I was just thinking what does this do for you? What does it improve, etc. Other than being able to monitor the O2 level?

You could use the belts and the crankshaft to get the sprockets into position, one at a time. But get them both set first, then do the timing mark alignment, and for real belt installs, including the 1 full turn between belts trick.

There are full write ups on other threads on here. Put 3 lines on the mark. Put cam with small hole up. Install belt 1. Rotate the crank 1 full turn. Stopping on the 3 marks. Position 2nd crank sprocket with small hole at mark. Install belt 2. Small hole in opposition cam will be fully opposite it's mark now.

The running crummy and hard starting are not likely related to oil in any way. An engine will start and run fine with no oil. It just won't last very long... Check for intake and exhaust blockage, fuel deliveey, spark, timing, etc.

TOD is just the name for noisy lifters. Timing belts can be done with the car on the ground, no big deal. Look around for the procedure on the forum since you are new to subarus.

The cam sprockets are hard to turn because the springs that close the valves are strong. I took a metal bar, drilled 2 holes in it at the distance of 2 of the holes on the perimeter of the cam sprocket. Tapped the holes, screwed a bolt into the holes so that some sticks theough. Slip the bolts into the cam sprocket holes, and turn to the correct position.

An overheat this bad has always lead to headgasket replacement in my experience with EA82 SPFI engines. I check coolant every morning. Both by squeezing the upper radiator hose, and checking the level in the overflow bottle. If it begins to disappear, it is troubleshooting time. Even then, I've had an intake gasket fail, and loose enough coolant to cook the headgaskets before I knew it. Watch the condition of ALL of the cooling system hoses, don't wait for them to fail. Same with the water pump, and radiator. If you rely on the temperature gauge to indicate a cooling system problem, it's too late. I have learned this the hard way.

Mud flap mod continued. Also requires snipping a bit of the fender flap that goes down under - just enough so it does not have to go through the square hole in the original mud flap, which I have welded closed using pieces removed to eliminate the pocket that dirt collected in. The snip also leaves an opening behind the flap that debris can drop out of, instead of being trapped inside between 2 layers of sheet metal. Pulled the right fender off of the 87 tonight, the rust is bad, but at least there is metal still there....

The power steering system operates at several hundred PSI, you are not going to stop it by hand.

Ok thanks for looking. The 93 I got from CA is in amazing condition in that area. It was full of dirt, but no damage to the paint or rust yet. Have to mod the other side now.

I used Napa permatex anaerobic on mine.

No, they are automatic.

I was going to wait to see if your parts car was intact in that area. If not, or its too far gone, or you discover you need it for your car, that's ok. It's a hidden area, so I can make up something to patch it. I am also modifying the mud flaps and the fender to remove the pockets that crud collects in in the first place.

Dry and long spin is bad. Gritty is bad. smooth quiet with light drag is normal. Stiff is bad. Too much play is bad. The idler is the one with teeth, and one bolt to the block. The toothed pulley directly under the crank is the oil pump.

If the axle spins, without turning the hub, the splines are stripped. New hub. Possibly need new axle also. I have not had this happen, so I don't know for certain.

Decided to look at my 93. WAY better condition, but the design that traps dirt and moisture was doing it's job very well. This is step one of my modification of the mud flap. Step 2 is to close up the square hole that allows water and dirt thrown back and up by the tire to get right into the pocket formed by the flap and the sheet metal.

Stripped hub won't stop 4wd from working. Not sure the loose wheel would cause the hub to strip... unless it was loose also. But the 4wd should have moved the car. Bigger than stock od tires will put higher stress on the driveline, if you are inclined to apply power.