DaveT

If it's an automatic, it could be the vacuum modulator? On my loyales, those can leak, and make quite a smokescreen until the transmission gets low on fluid...

Around here, the weather switches too much to not have a valve.

Mine always upshift too soon. So I use the shifter. When the pedal is on the floor, there is a switch that triggers a downshift from D to 2, or holds 2 until you let it up enough to get off the switch. If I want to get from 45 or so to 65 quickly, I downshift to 2 and hit the gas. If the engine is turning much below 4k rpms, you don't get quick response.

Yes the first part sounds like the vacuum modulator smoke. 50 $ fix. It would likely have started leaking a lot of oil from the old gaskets by this age and miles, so doing the reseal isn't a total waste. I'm not entirely sure I follow the discription of the shifting / drivability issue... I've been driving 3AT wagons for many years. Typical on ramp I have it floored or nearly, shifter in 2. Until between 5 to 6 k rpms , then go to D. Normal 4k rpms at 65mph. The EA82 engine doesn't make much power until around 4k.

Helicoil or one of the other thread repair inserts.

Pictures would help.

Be sure to use same or thicker wire / connectors

The contacts on one or more of the circuits in the plug or socket lost the spring tension, and got slightly corroded which makes resistance. Current flowing makes heat, accelerating corrosion. Makes more heat, more corrosion. Also looses more tension from heat. Replace the bad pins and sockets.

I once made a mistake regarding a similar situation. The turn signal lights on the front are recessed in the bumper, not up by the headlights. Just checking.

A 92 doesn't have a carb. The iac has a hose connected that you pull off, pour the cleaner in, nothing to disassemble.

It won't get to where it needs to be.

I've owned Subarus since my first 1986. Every newer version slips more toward trendy / style / etc. And away from solid reliable affordable. Sounds like the EJ22 was an accident.

Ifit weremine, I'd probably buy it from the insurance, and fix it and continue running it.

Torque for the axle nut is something between 100 to 150 ft lbs. Don't recall the exact number.

Make sure that the axle nut is tight also.

+1 F3F0. Best to use a flare nut wrench on them also.

I would use inverted flare fittings, just like the others on the car

Mine have started normally below zero F. So unless you are talking way below that, I doubt it's just due to excess cold. The CTS could screw up cold idle. Or hot idle. Or anything in between. The idle air control valve could screw up normal idle, not sure about cold, just because I never had one fail and tried to start cold. The one I had fail, failed while driving home, so was fixed before I had a chance to find out how it would effect cold starting. Most electric & electronic circuits can be effected by temperature, so it is possible for anything involved with engine control is partly failed. The squeal noise, could be a bad idler bearing, or a V belt slipping. Check and tighten the v belts, if it still squeals, start checking the idler / s. There is one on some versions with A/C, and 3 in the timing belt system. Alternator bearings could theoretically fail that way also, but less likely. If it is the V belts, you may need new ones, as once they slip some, they get prone to slip more.

The injector can make audible clicking. I don't often hear it, as I am in the car.

Nothing controlling the pump is up by the throttle body.

For some variations of gl / loyale there were different splines, so it's good to check. The inside end only lines up for the pin in one position. The pin should not require heavy hammering to go in. Do not use a punch that is too small to drive the pin out. I use a steel gutter nail with the point cut off flat.

I've never got an EA82 get past 6500 or 7000, not that I went around trying to.

Rev limiters are a race car thing. Not in these old street cars.

I'm thinking about whether I want to deal with the awkward position of the cap.

I do have a couple of dual row radiators saved for rebuilding. I was thinking of getting a single to use while I search out someone or the parts to do the rebuild.