DaveT

If you really had no oil pressure, the lifters would be making a hell of a clattering. Some EA82 engines used oil pressure senders, big sensor screwed int the pump. Some used just the switch & light, smaller sender. The car harness used the same single wire, to the same place on the instrument cluster connections. So if there is a meter, it should just work by connecting to the big sender. No Teflon tape allowed on the senders.... Maybe check the engine ground wire. I had an idle air control valve fail once, it caused the engine to die when you let go of the throttle, so it's a good idea to check it and the wiring to it.

I just remembered to go look at one now. They are an odd / different style than I thought for the rear diff, anyway. I saw a marking, but couldn't read it. Have to try when there's more light. But now I checked, mine are all newer, so I don't know if they are going to be the same.

If it's a spfi, the filter is under the hood..

If you can measure the id and od and thickness, you can try bearing supply houses, amazon, ebay. You are looking for double lip shaft seals.

Good idea to not drive it. That describes a regulator the is "stuck on full" . I just had one fail that way on one of my loyales. I ordered parts from aspwholesale.com

Belt slipping can't cause overcharge.

Engine oil pump? I think I may have bought one at napa years ago. Since then, I've just replaced the shaft seal with the one in the Fel Pro conversion kit. And of course, the other o rings used where the pump bolts to the block.

4 bolts engine to bell housing. I remove the 4 bolts engine mounts to engine block. Passenger side ones are easier to get at, drivers a bit of a pain, but a combination wrench can get them. Sometimes use a piece of 1X2 wood to get force on them.

Leave the cross member on the car

The 8 inch lift is to get under the car. If you need or want to do stuff underneath. To lift the engine, no pulling axles, remove radiator. Put a jack under the trans. To help position it. Engine slides forward a few inches to get clear of the transmission. Block the Trans to the cross member or whatever, raise engine, roll car back. Lower onto a milk crate or blocks. Now easy to get at the back of the engine. Or just raise the engine, twist 180 degrees, work on it above the car.

I've done it by pulling engine only. A big tree, or rafters with a beam to spread the load. Come along or hoist. S ratchet strap to help with the tilt front to back. Once it is up, roll the car back. For under car work, I have a bunch of solid concrete blocks 4x8x16 and some 2x12s. Make 4 piles of the blocks for where the tires will be. 2x12s make ramps up, and bridge from front to back. Smaller brick sized blocks make the supports for the 2x12s so the tops are flush. Drive up, pull 2x12s from side, lots of room to work under. 8" high makes it possible to get the transmission out from under the car.

Don't know of any reason tilting the engine in any direction would cause permanent problems. Intake manifold gaskets at the heads, and the carb are possible places coolant can get into the intake and burned.

My experience with EA82 3AT 4x4 wagons is that most parts are the same. The 86 was carb, the others spfi, so some obvious differences there. There were also a couple of differences with the transmissions somewhere between 88 and 90. Gear ratios were different in the 86 also.

The SPFI has a little more power. Also, my 86 had taller gears than all of my newer wagons. Which compounds the lower hp from the engine. All of mine are / were EA82 w 3AT 4x4 wagons

Gasket surfaces should not be polished. Yes, check out the post apocalyptic head resurfacing thread.

I suspect that the rpm range of the different engines would make it a bit slow...

Here is the link: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Running that low on oil.... Bad. Never did it, so can't say for sure, but low oil I would think would cause trouble with the rings and bearings. The coolant recovery tank should always have coolant in it, up to the full line when cold. I had an engine that burned about a quart of oil per tank of gas. It had suffered a bad overheat due to low coolant. It passed emissions, and didn't smoke. Ran it for quite a while, using old oil from other cars, mixed with cheap new. Running low on coolant - even a little low - is bad for head gaskets. No coolant in the overflow is not good. Watch your coolant level like a hawk. Both by checking the level in the overflow, and squeezing the top hose to check for water swishing & jiggle pin vs lots of air / no jiggle pin.

I had something not go back together quite right when swapping an engine once. My memory of the situation is fuzzy. Check underneath where the flywheel is partially exposed, and covered by a small piece of bolted on steel. Make sure it isn't rubbing on that.

I bought a loyale from a guy in California, had it shipped to Conecticut.

I will put a link to my Subaru mods page when I get home tonight. The Toyota model is not critical. They were using them at the same time frame as the GLs, 1988 ish. I have the very same solenoids in my current EA82s, that is how long the have lasted. I did modify the mounting brackets, and replace the connectors to mate with the Subaru harness.

A trick I found to help avoid this sort of problem - run the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then remove plugs or bolts etc. That have not been turned in a long time. Reassemble with anti seize. Be careful with torque since the anti seize is a good lubricant.

The plugs won't hurt anything. They are for reading codes from memory and clearing the memory. Just unhook them. I replace the solenoids with Toyota ones, since they don't break, or fail. +1 what others wrote regarding figuring out why it died.

I've been driving 3ATs since 1988. Did you have the engine and transmission separated before the noise while working on things?

Ah, thanks for the information regarding the different coolant situation. I didn't know they changed that.