DaveT

I've used Helicoils. Have not had any trouble. The fancier threadserts sound good too.

The cone washer is thick, and has a split / slit. The spring washer goes on next, and the concave side toward the hub. The concave / convex is subtle, so look closely. If you really have a flat washer, that might be part of the problem.

It wouldn't surprise me if the splines were damaged on both parts during the original problem Check the cone washer, the spring washer were installed correctly, and in good condition. Also, not a bad idea to double check the tightness after a drive or 2 after you reassemble it.

Running hot with low coolant will cause headgasket failure. Repeating this will accelerate the failure. I've caught a mild blow early, and managed to drive for a few months, but I checked coolant every day. Eventually the consumption increases and you have to face it. The number of trips you can cheat it is not predictable.

I have never had a turbo. On spfi and carb ed engines, the vacuum modulator can fail and the manifold vacuum sucks the atf out until it runs low enough to slip, or you notice the cloud of smoke. But these engines can burn a lot of oil without smoke.. blown headgaskets typically is exhaust gasses pushing into coolant system. Which causes low coolant, which causes overheating which causes blown headgaskets. I have had only one badly overheated blow so bad that oil and coolant mixed.

I've never heard of headgaskets causing that to happen, so that is unlikely

That seems pretty weird to me. Mine are all EA82 with 3AT. Never had that happen.

You definitely have to stay on top of it to keep them around.

EA81 don't have cam towers or o rings.

Checking the governor sounds good. I have not had that combination of trouble. There are a couple of servo tubes that can fall out and loose functions. Drop the pan to check those. I had one fall out, lost 3rd and reverse. A factory service manual has a very detailed description and diagrams explaining the workings.

They are supposed to log more than 1 code at a time. I may have had 2 at the same time once or twice since 1988. Supposed to blink them out sequentially. I have not seen a failure of that speedometer sensor. EGR & Evap mods: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body or carb for 1 to 2 seconds. crank. Does it fire for a few seconds?

Start by just pulling the rocker cover.

Looks like one of the pins they put to align halves of the block, or heads, or engine to bell housing. Kind of odd to find one in the pan I guess . ..

The oem solenoids are notorious for failing open. I replace them with ones from toyota. I came up with that mod around 1989 +-. Still using the same ones that I bought at a junkyard back then.

where do you get one of those for only $20.00?

That low pressure could be something as simple / stupid as a broken valve retainer. I had that happen to my 78 once, ran it home on 3 cylinders. I am running an 87 GL and a 93 Loyale. For as long as I can, just because I can. I prefer the size shape, etc. Been doing repairs on them since 1988, have all the special tools, tricks, FSMs, spare parts from others that rusted away from me. Don't want OBD II or airbags. More power / speed would just make it more likely to get in trouble. If the body is good on yours, find a parts car with the stuff that's shot. Or if someone on here parts one out.

Oh, nuts. Missed the EA81. Sorry.

I've taken a couple of doors apart. As I recall, all of the window mech unbolts from the door, so it should be possible to swap everything.

My 86 had crank wondows. Also had manual mirrors, but I discovered that the wiring was there for the Power mirrors. I got a pair of power mirrors and the switch, plugged them in. One of the simplest upgrades ever.

I agree, might as well do it.

Sounds like headgaskets. Re using a headgasket. .. asking for trouble. From what I have seen on this new generation forum, it is very similar to my experience with EA82 engines- if the coolant gets low, for any reason, and the temp Guage goes above normal, head gaskets are damaged. A bunch of variables effect how badly. But the point is, it is too late. You can't use the temp Guage to monitor the cooling system for level, or leaks. You have to check the level in the overflow, air in the upper hose, and that the tiny fins are attached to the tubes in the radiator core regularly. The 1st 2 a lot more frequently than the 3rd.

O ring

The original is between the head and cam tower.

Very likely it needs headgaskets. With the noise, assume you will do a full rebuild or swap a known good engine in. Adjust the price accordingly. The gurgling water got my attention - that's a sign of low coolant. VERY bad for headgaskets. The rest of the description regarding the cooling system is a huge red flag.