DaveT

I have an 86 FSM and a 90 fsm. I can try looking at them later tonight, or over the weekend.

I won't snip the wire. I made tools to release the connector pins out of the housing. I made them from the stainless steel strips that are on wiper blades.

I had a wire break on on of mine, just broken inside the insulation. Posibly a random weak spot and maybe some vibration resonated it just right.

Fix the break, insulate with heat shrink. Splice the shield also.

This is interesting. I have a 93 California car. It has that sensor. I don't néed it as I am in CT. So if I have trouble with it, there are options.

I'd start by looking for the no spark part first. Fusible links, fuses. Voltmeter to verify power is getting where it is supposed to be, as I have seen fuses fail open with no visible sign. Once you know you have spark, you can spray a second or 2 of carb cleaner down the throttle body, and crank. If it runs for a burst, then dies, now to find the fuel problem. A couple things, maybe or maybe not related? From idle, I have occasionally popped the throttle open so quickly that the engine just stopped. I don't recall it being a problem to restart though. I have, over years, had a couple times, engine die, or not quite catch on start. Normal cranking will not do anything but run a brand new battery dead. I found holding the gas pedal down to the floor, and cranking - for what does seem quite long - does clear the problem, which I figure was flooding. It takes quite a bit, and coughs and sputters back to life when this happens. Once it begins, I let it run around 3000 RPM till it smooths out.

The timing mark on the flywheel for aligning the timing belts is the middle of the 3 lines. | | | NOT the 0 degrees mark for timing. One side will be up, one down, with each revolution of the crank. There is a write up somewhere on the forum. There is a sequence to follow to get them on correctly.

I haven't done that..... My fist thought is to loosen everything, and re torque. IF you stripped it, it won't get back to spec.

Bad gas would just make it run bad.

check the timing belts - that the marks are correctly oriented.

I'm in CT. The Dual Range 5spd. $50. I also have a clutch and all those parts with about 5 miles on them. And a flywheel.

Unless you are in a cold climate, 10w-40.

I have not had to do this. I have several ECUs from different years. I'd want to go through the schematics from the FSM for both years.

Doesn't sound normal. I have a dual range 5 speed trans. sitting here getting dusty.

It's been a long time since I had anything before an EA82. I'm pretty sure my older 76 & 78 used the same studs however. Those had 1600cc push rod engines. Used the same studs as EA82, and our 2001 Forester uses the same studs. 10mm x 1.25 x 42mm The 42 is the length, you have room on that, so don't get hung up on exactly 42.

Intermittent problems are a pain in the butt. T a fuel gauge into the line after the filter. Check electric connections connectors, grounds, etc.

you can buy 10mm x 1.25mm metric studs. And the nuts for them. You also should have a flat washer and a lock washer on each one. They may just be missing, or the may be missing due to stripping out. Either way, you need the studs. I wouldn't use a bolt. The threads strip out easily enough when a stud is all the way bottomed. A bolt is not bottomed while you are tightening it, and it won't get tight if it is too long. Either way, even easier to strip.

They are a thread repair device. Napa sells kits. You only need them if the threads strip. Be careful when installing the studs and tightening the nuts. Check the torque specs so you don't over do it.

If they are like most other models, remove the nuts, and loosen or remove the bolt from the support bracket near the rear of the transmission. Use something to support the y pipe. I've used the jack so I can lower it slowly. Once the flanges clear the studs, you can put in new gaskets. Check that the studs are all the way in before re assembly. The nuts are to be used to apply the clamping force. Sometimes the threads in the head strip out. I've used heli coils to fix them.

Anti seize compound or wheel bearing grease is a big help also.

Ah, this won't fix it if nothing gets to that wire. That wire connects to the coil of the relay you add . But it should be easier to find the open connection than the high resistance and / or intermittent connection that typically causes the click / no crank.

I stopped using the front covers years ago. Had the same worries, but a few members back then had run them without with no trouble. I have had no trouble. I'm not certain of this - but it seems like I have had less trouble with the idler bearings, since they get airflow and could be running cooler.

I spent a lot of time fighting with this problem a few years ago. Put in a general purpose relay, no problem since.

Sounds good. I've been using the Fel Pro head kit + converting kit. Except, get the intake gaskets from Subaru.

The best way to get the intake bolts out is run it to normal operating temp. Or use a space heater and heat gun with a meat thermometer [so you don't overdo it] How many miles on it? The coolant could be just leaks from the water pump, or hoses. But yes, a reseal should reduce oil leaks from everywhere. If you do the reseal, do the oil pump seals. The Throttle body to intake seal. You can replace the front main and rear main seals without splitting the crank case, so replace them also. Camshaft seals, and the o-rings on the separate piece that the seal presses into. Replace ALL 7 cooling system hoses. Remove rust from the clamping area. Put a little silicon plumber's grease on the area. Re torque the clamps after a drive or 2. Be careful when removing the heater hoses from the heater core. The pipes are thin brass, and can be crushed. While you are doing all this, take a close look at the radiator - if the thin little copper webs between the horizontal tubes are loose, or missing, get a new radiator, or get it re cored. If mileage is unknown, or anywhere near100,000, might as well replace the water pump. Since the belt broke, it is likely past time to replace all timing belt 3 idlers.