DaveT

I removed this transmission from a car I got around 10 years ago. It has been stored inside my heated & humidity controlled basement since then. I think the car had between 150 to 200,000 miles. It did work back then. I had installed a new clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing. Drove it around the yard a few times testing it, but ended up never registering it, since I got another car in better shape rust wise, like a day or 2 later. I also have the flywheel, which will likely need to be turned, as it somehow got wet at some point, and has some rust on it. [it was not with the transmission] I believe this is a 5 speed. It is 4WD. It was removed from a 4WD 1987 wagon. SPFI EA82 engine. I don't need it. I could use 3AT transmissions / parts.

If it were to break off while on your long trip, that could be inconvenient.

If you are moving forward, the ventilation system makes it unlikely the leaks will harm you. I've driven around withe leaking exhaust pipes for months sometimes. Its just noisy.

O2 sensor has no effect on starting. Need more information. How does it run & drive cold. Also, hot. Same with starting, hot & cold. Fuel pump only runs in cranking position, or runs IF the engine is running, except for a short timed burst [to help with starting].

I have now removed the transfer section and oil pump from 2 of my 3ATs. Removed most of the gears and clutches from a 3rd. Except for the stupid oil pump drive shaft input splines, so far, nothing else looks bad. Hard to believe all of these have 150,000 to over 200,000 miles on them.

Now I can see what is wrong! If you can't find a better used one, close enough, then rebuilding it will work. Someone was parting out a wagon not long ago.

2.5 would just cost more. 2 is bigger than stock. I'm pretty sure that the muffler design will have more effect on the sound.

I had a belt that wanted to track funny like that once. . I flipped it over and it was fine.

I made an all stainless exhaust for mine. Used 2" after the y pipe. I did not do it for power gain, as it won't make a significant difference. I got tired of replacing expensive pipes with catalytic converters that would fail due to rust. And when I've had to work on something that requires exhaust removal, it is so much nicer to just unbolt stainless hardware. There's a link to my website about it somewhere in another thread.

10w 40. But that won't change the leaking

These engines are made to spin fast. The dual valve springs are typical for high rpm engines.

The inner joint has a good 3 or 3 inches of travel. There is a spring wire keeper that limits the extension so it doesn't fall apart while off the car. On car, the range of motion is limited by the suspension geometry.

I have not had one fail, so I probably would lean towards used. It is a project, you have to remove the dash board to get to the heater box, remove it, and disassemble it to get to the core.

I have heard of pinhole leak in the heater core causing that, but there would be other symptoms. .. Check the fresh / recirculate air door. It is moved by vacuum.

I use a 1/2" socket drive, with a piece of plumber's strap for a shim.

Here is a picture of the pump from the 1990 3AT

I found out why the 1993 transmission lost reverse and 3rd. The release servo tube fell out, and was sitting in the pan. Checked the flow diagrams in the FSM, yep, that would do it. I could have fixed that on the car, BUT I would not have found the pump shaft spline wear. Seems to me there should be a little clamp / clip to hold those tubes in place. There's a bolt right near each of them anyway...

There is a little wear in that you can tell it has been turning, but not what I think of as scoring. I'll see if I can get a decent picture.

The bearings in the idler and tensioners are pretty much worn out by the time you need belts, so replace them.

Started dis-assembly of the 1990 3AT. So far, the only thing that looks wrong is the stripped spline on the pump drive shaft. Even the spline on the pump looks good. This thing has over 200,000 miles on it, I've driven it since it had 15,000 miles.

I've only felt warped rotors while applying brakes. And no where near the shimmy that the tire or really bad CVJ caused.

What started it for me - the flanges on my custom real stainless system are 2". Even the nice gaskets I got from the tuner parts place to go with the stainless flanges, are made with regular steel. Stupid. The one on the system I had to remove to swap transmissions crumbled when I took it apart. Copper might work for that one, if everything is dead flat. I thought about it for a few days, and came up with the fibreglass reenforced RTV gasket idea. I actually made some for my Dynahoe a couple years back, because it is not something you just walk into a store and get parts for. I think I'll try making a pair for the Y pipe to engine next. I've got at least one leaking a little again. I've never had consistent luck with those no matter where I got them. Then, when I have a set not leaking, something comes up, I have to remove the Y pipe, and back to zero. I also don't like the idea of using steel in any part of the gasket, since when it rusts up, it expands. Probably contributes to the exhaust studs getting stripped out. How well my fibreglass + RTV gaskets survive pretty much hinges on if the RTV can withstand the temperature. With the aluminum face surfaces, the should be reuseable.

A couple things I've dealt with: I had a really bad outer CVJ failing that caused that kind of shake. It did it intermittently. Loading [acceleration / deceleration] mattered. The boot had been torn for a long time though. I also had a tire where the tread de-laminated from the steel belts that would make a pronounced shake in the wheel at low speeds, but would smooth out on the highway. The cause of this turned out to be alignment out of specification. To see the problem, I had to look at the tread and turn the tire, rolling toward me [as opposed to a side view] , then I could see the bubbled up area.

Newer cars are made to crunch up more, to lower the impact pulse to the people inside. The trade off is that minor to middle energy accidents do a lot more damage to the car. The people might have survive either way. It's the rarer high energy crash that the car crunching up likely makes the most difference. Air bags likely save your life in a full on high energy crash, but can also make a lot of minor accidents worse. I don't care for them. Everything is a risk. You pick and choose. I'll keep my Loyales / GLs going as long as I can.

I have used the Felpro gask3ts, not re torqued. No problem. BUT if ty 2 coolant is allowed to get low - that is, near empty bottle and air in the top radiator hose, or lower, and run the car slighly over normal operating temperature head gaskets begin to fail. The intake gaskets and the custom oring for the throttle body are famous for slowly dissappearing Coolant. At this point, the only way to know if you have cooked the head gaskets, or just some other mystery leak is fill, monitor levels for a half dozen drives, from cold to hot, and back.