DaveT

From the data sheet, the maximum charge rate is 96/4 = 24 Amps. Maximum charging voltage = 13.8V I would not parallel it with a car battery. It should have a separate charge controller. If you decide to just wire it in parallel, measure the current that will flow between the batteries with the car off. Be aware, it could be moderately high. It's ok to parallel identical type size and age batteries. Not so good for combinations. One will never fully charge, or one will get too much overcharge. Both cases are not good for the batteries.

Other general deep cycle battery stuff. Deeper cycles shortens life. Lead acid battery life is typically 5 years. Under ideal conditions. End of life is usually something like 70% of rated capacity. Once you get past this, the self discharge rate climbs, and the capacity drops more and more rapidly. This is not reversible. You can likely look up the detailed spec sheets for the battery online on the manufacturer's website.

looks like a 12V, by the cell dividers showing through the plastic, and the vents. It won't hurt to put a charger on it, see what it does. The charge voltage on these is a bit lower than a car battery, and they are more sensitive to overcharge. I ran a deep cycle marine battery in my car while I was building my house. Ran an inverter for power. Found that even by only drawing about half the AH capacity every other day, the alternator would not keep it charged even with 1Hr of driving every day. I had to attach a line powered charger every night when I got home from the house.

The roll pin is not meant to take any stress from rotation. The splines should fit very close. The post above sounds like a good idea to check.

I don't have a mpfi. But if I had to remove bolts that have not been turned in many years, I would take a drive to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then upon returning to the workshop, immediately loosen the bolts in question.

Sounds like the Coolant temperature sensor. It has 2 wires, screws into the housing under where the thermostat is.

These last 2 posts pretty much sum up what I remember seeing discussed about these sort of changes in the past. If you want the challenge of doing the mods, I understand that. If the desired result is more power, EJ will do that with more reliability, and it seems to me a similar amount of work.

Ok, I found it. In section 6 of the FSM. Fuses are numbered starting at the top left fuse = 1. 3 rows of 8 fuses [except 3 blank ones on the last / bottom row]

The year doesn't matter. I made the mod in the early 90s. I went to a junk yard, and bought a handful of solenoids. I'm still using the same ones, they just move to the next car.

Never heard of anything like that

I would try running it until it gets to normal operating temp, then try turning it with vise grips. Or if you have an oxyacetylene torch, and know how long to use it.... Not sure if I could do my TIG a jam nut or a washer to the end of the stud trick will work upside down. Why these work is the heat expands and weakens the grip of the corrosion between the bolt / stud and the aluminum, so it is also key to do it while hot. (after the glow from welding [in that case] fades) Tapping on the broken piece with a small hammer after heating also may help break up / loosen the corrosion.

Did a bunch of fiddly work on the transmission going into my 93 Loyale. Align tubing to factory position, clean up drian plug, remove crud from outside of case, un bend brackets, replace rusted off bracket, that kind of stuff. Including the TIG a washer onto the broken off bolt trick to remove a couple of snapped off rear mounting bolts.

That sounds like your trouble. ...

Most likely the purge solenoid is open. I replace them with one from a toyota. There is a link to my Web page about this mod in a few of the similar threads on this forum. The OEM egr and purge solenoids fail often.

I had to do that with my 87. Took the heating system apart, cleaned it with bleach. I put hardware cloth over the openings between the body and the ducts. Don't forget to clean out the passages in the body. I hate mice.

I would have lifted it higher, but I didn't want to wreck the front end, bumper, etc.

That's my Web page. I'm sure the hitch would handle the weight. The car will handle weird with a heavy weight that far back.

This is true, not using it should extend the life.

In mine, the resistor for the slowest speed is always the one that failed. I've taken the second one from spare units, and replaced the failed resistor with it. Slow is not quite as slow, but it's been a permanent fix. I have not had an ECU failure. Been running TBI EA82s since 1992. [My first EA82 had a carburetor, bought in 1988.] I've had a total of 6 TBI EA82s, still have 2 runners, [one is down for transmission work] and a 3rd supplying parts. Of course, now that I've written it, one should fail in a week or so.

One of the places I found ss exhaust parts is verociousmotorsports. SS TIG welds like a dream.

Limited Slip Differential

Coolant temp sensor could do those. I had one go bad, did all sorts of odd stuff. Except the stumble at highway speed.

The only time I've had the o2 sensor code was from a bad o2 sensor. That never effected driveability. Mid 20psi sounds ok for fuel pump. TPS maybe for the surging? Ph, also the coolant temperature sensor can cause random idle rpm and varation at low speeds. Without causing am error code.

A compression test checks the headgaskets. It's been a long time since I had a carburetor. .. is there an idle air control or anti run on valve?

Get security screws?