DaveT

I manged to get the good transmission out of the rusty car. Got the good car with the dead transmission into the garage.

Seems like a risky idea to just put in a new one without checking the pump is all good and no broken bit floating around in it...

Hi Lily, You need the ground connected for this kind of test. The wire to test with anything from 18AWG to 10AWG is good enough / not too heavy to deal with. I usually use pieces from a spare parts harness, so one end has a connector that fits on the starter. The other, just touch to the battery. Also a cheap backup starting trick I used for a while when first dealing with the intermittent no start problem I had. Put the key in run position, touch wire, remove wire, drive. you could also use a temporary test clip on the end of a wire, and clip it to the terminal on the starter. The end you touch to the battery will make a spark, but it isn't anything to be scared of. Just don't touch the metal. Cuts hurt worse than any shock I've ever gotten, and the worst ones I've felt didn't come off a car.

I'll check that. Anyone know if that shaft can be pulled out & re inserted without parts dropping out of place?

Test 1. Use a piece of wire from battery + to the little tab on back of the starter. If it engages , it's likely the notorious weak connection somewhere in the harness or ignition switch. Fix by adding a relay. Other reason for click no starter is a contact inside the solenoid which can be replaced.

Pull the disty and move the gear ahead one tooth over stock?

Is that magnaflow the kind of stainless that does'nt rust away?

Yes, the top 2 are k ohm.

Sounds good.

Yes to pictures. Looks like I made the right decision today .. winched my rusty wagon with a good transmission into the garage. And it's going to snow like insane tomorrow. Only bad thing is the good car with the dead transmission has to be outside until I get the trans out of the rusty one.

Nothing under the filter. Tubes look ok. One bolt won't screw back in. Like it had a nut, and the nut is gone now. Setting up to get the doner car in the garage.

Pan dropped. Nothing but clean ATF in there. Ran my finger across the bottom of the pan, no gunk.

In my experience, an EA82 will not pass emissions without an operating cat system. The OEM has 2, the system I built has 1.

Is the Magnaflow a lot louder than stock? I have original mufflers / aftermarket ones right now, but when they rust out, I'll need something stainless to replace them, and match my fabricated stainless parts that I made from the stock muffler forward.

I use a piece of plumber's strap wrapped part way around a 1/2" drive breaker bar to fit the recess in the plugs. About a 3' pipe to extend the handle. Put a jack under the end, and begin to lift the car. Bounce on the bumper.

Yes, next step drop pan. I get zero pressure on the test port. I do notice a barely perceptible bump in the car when engaging d or r. Nothing close to moving it though. Time is extremely valuable right now, so if it still makes sense, I'll drop the pan now. I had to swap all the tires between the dead car and the good one, in case of driving in snow. I have to go plow the driveway now. Also have to decide between pushing my parts car into the garage so I can pull the trans, or mess around looking for a loose one. I have a line on a loose one, which I plan on getting as a spare, either way. I am going to disassemble the dead one, because I want to see what broke. And the condition of the other stuf. I put all of the over 200,000 miles on this trans except the first 15,000. I don't drive like a little old lady. I'll take pics, as the car will be running before I start on the innards.

You can replace the blower motor without disassembling the dashboard. Not so for the heater core. Are you sure it is bad?

Yeah, if the flex plate was broken or detached, it would not start. Probably would idie rough, since the torque converter has the flywheel mass and the starting gear.

I like manual shift. BUT. Clutching annoys the arthritis in my left knee. It's way easier to maneuver in tight places and or with a trailer with an automatic. My wife can't drive a standard. I rebuilt a Ford select-o-speed transmission. It is a 10 forward 2 reverse tractor transmission. Same kind of internal mechanisms as what I see in the FSM for the 3AT. Just more them. And bigger. At the moment, I am half way through swapping the tires from the dead 87 to the 93 so I can drive in snow if needed. Next, pressure check. Before dropping the pan, so I don't have to back track. A 12 point 8mm socket is needed to remove the test plug.

The rear driveline is still spinning in fwd. There is no load on it. Remove the upper plug on the diff to check level or add oil. Don't be surprised by how insanely tight the plugs are.

Well, this gives me a possible cause and fix for the (low) heat in my 93!

My understanding of what the governor does indicates that it would screw up the shift points, or not shift. This is not the problem. Tomorrow I will be stopping at Napa to see if I can find anything to get the test plug out. When I get home, I'm going to pull one of the cooling lines and check for fluid while running. No fluid, no pump.

Setup for dropping transmission.

Gathered parts to connect a pressure gauge to the line pressure test port. Need to get something to unscrew the plug. Metric square head in an impossible location to get a wrench on. Only a socket will get in there. 1/4" drive end is too small. 6 point won't grab it. In the manual, it shows a couple of tubes that have to be pried out to remove the control valve. It also says only re install new ones. Are they still available? Anyone ever try to re use? Thank you everyone.

I have a rig to drop the Trans. I could come up with a way to test pressure. I have full FSM for 86 and 90.