DaveT

The unknown history is the downside of an engine already separated from the car. I can swap an engine easily over a weekend. I cannot [well, maybe, if I only did that, and spent every minute on it. But that's not going to happen] do a complete reseal in that time. I don't like time constraints. So a spare is more than worth the space. But I have heated space to store them. I have also used an engine or 2 that sat outside for 6-12 months, with no issues. Each way has it's advantages, it's what works for you.

In that state, you can't tell. The bottle should be at the full mark when cold. NO air in the upper hose when cold. Run a few cycles with it wull, see what happens. Check level of bottle and air in upper hose before every start from cold. At least 4 to 6 cycles.

I have only seen the bubbles with failing head gaskets. The intake is under vacuum, so coolant gets sucked in and burned. Along with the Bubbling, does it keep pushing coolant into the overflow bottle? Typically, with failing headgaskets, it will eventually overflow the recovery bottle, and the upper radiator hose will be full of air.

That's how I do it. Spare engines, spare transmissions.

Intermittent is a rely box that uses the low winding. High is a separate wire to the motor. You have to check that power is sent to the high speed terminal when the switch is on high to determine if the switch is doing it's job, or the motor is dead on high..

I found 8 of the ones I have

That's a tough one. It pretty much has to be loosing spark, or fuel. If mine was doing what you describe - If I thought it might be fuel, I'd tee in a fuel pressure gauge. Throw a spare fuel pump wire set in the back, maybe a pump. Maybe a coil and a disty. And an ECU. And the tools needed. But I have all this stuff laying around. I have not had a similar problem. Intermittent failures are a BIG pain in the butt to troubleshoot.

What I have: Just short of 6-5/8" long .428" diameter, peak of the threads. 1-1/16" threaded each end. Screw into an ea82 block nicely.

I'm not sure what the ea number is, but I just found a handful of them from my 76 78 1600cc wagons.

Yeah, small bead thing might be better.

A thought I had. cut a shallow groove around the oil & coolant passages on both sides. Use RTV or aerobic sealant t keep the fluids where they belong.?

For the block sude, I've just used a piece of aluminum channel a little over 12" long as a sanding block. The piece I have is 2" wide, wider would work too. Check it for flatness against the glass. Be conseious of being sure to hit the entire block evenly.

I got tired of the typical exhaust flange gaskets. Especially, since I have made my stainless system. The typical flange gaskets are steel and whatever gasket material. They end up rusting away and crumbling. This is what I did: On a flat surface, piece of aluminum foil. Piece of fiberglass repair cloth. Ultra copper RTV, worked into the glass. Piece of fiberglass repair cloth. Ultra copper RTV, worked into the glass. Piece of fiberglass repair cloth. Piece of aluminum foil. Steel plate and weight on the stack for 24 hours. Cut out the holes and edges. Installed in exhaust system. So far, it's holding up, no leaks.

Sounds like you are referring to the accelerator pump. If it were not working, pretty much any increase in opening of the throttle would cause temporary fuel starvation.

I have seen this. I had a CTS failing intermittent, it caused a lot of odd random problems, but never triggered an error code. It didn't fail shorted or open, it just was lying about the engine temperature inside the valid range. If the ECU thinks the engine is cold, it doesn't use the O2 sensor to adjust the mixture. Fixing what ever is wrong should get you better mileage, since the ECU will control the mix properly, instead of running in a fail safe / rich mode.

If the sensor 8s open or shorted, I would expect a trouble code. I have not tested to be sure, however. I do know from a past experience, the sensor can fail in a way that does not generate a code, but does burn out the catalytic converter.

Heating it with a torch would likely help also.

Check that all the duel, vapor recovery, lines and vent are clear. T a fuel pressure gauge into the line.

I guess I should get the dust off the one I have and verify what version it is...

The e brake works through levers on the front calipers. All of the 4WD wagons I've had have auto adjusters on the back brakes. They adjust when you go backwards, and hit the brakes. If they were rusty and stuck, that would probably make the pedal lower progressively as they wear.

I have not seen ABS on any Loyales. You are correct, hill l holder is an option on standard shift transmissions. Check all the brake hoses by looking at them while someone else mashes the pedal. There is a balancing valve of some sort mounted under the car near the tube that the rear wheel arms attach to. I do not know if it can cause your problem.

When you checked power to the coil, are you measuring at the 2 terminals on the coil?

don't worry about the code 35, it won't cause the problem. Fix it later. I've been running these cars since 1988, never had a bad ECU. But that doesn't mean it can't happen. With your list of items, I guess I'd swap one out, but I have lots of spare parts. It makes troubleshooting a lot easier.

Fuel pump runs in start position. For a short burst when switch set from off to run. Or when the engine is running

Also the Coolant temperature sensor can make the idle jump around and be random. Factory service manual is best by far. The A/C compressor should run wether the system is charged or not, there is no lockout for that condition. You cannot fully charge the A/C unless the compressor is running.