DaveT

One of mine was doing that. Since I have 2 identical cars, I learned whrer the tach is for a few of the MPH speeds, and drove it by the tach. Eventually, it stopped sticking. My guess is it is something in the gauge itself. If the cable stuck, it would break off and read zero. It's driven by a gear in the tranny

Reminds me of a couple of my incidents. Years ago, I picked up a friend whos car was one of the big high power sports cars. We were waiting to turn left, lots of traffic, in the rain. Anyway, he was impressed when I dumped the clutch & jumped right into the flow. With my 1400 4WD wagon. Another rainy night, was the typical guy pulls up alongside at the light & revs. I was way ahead by the time I got to the speed limit +5MPH. Of course, he blew by after that, but still... I don't remeber which car it was though.

Check the small hose behind the throttle body. another from the thermostat housing to the block. Small one from water pump to steel line that goes to one of the heater hoses. A failing intake manifold gasket can put coolant on top of the engine also.

NOTE:use at your own risk! This method generates a nice fuel air mixture around the engine. I just shot some carb cleaner on the pullys while the engine was idling. Cleaned the belts & pullys off very well.

Timing belts & idlers?

Yes, they are not very model specific.

They definitely do. The ones I got from a scrap yard in the late 80's STILL work. The cars were similar age & size to the Loyale models. Pretty much any model had 2 or more solenoids under the hood.

My web page for solenoid replacement: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

Yes The center bearing mounting point is left off of the 2WD - I had to fabricate 2 pieces to make the mounting points for the center bearing. The holes for the rear diff support mounting holes were partly there - one layer of metal had them, so I could just drill them through.

4WD can be added to a 2WD. I did it to my 87. You will need to fabricate the center bearing mount for the driveshaft. Drill 4 holes to mount the differential. I cut 1" access holes through the wagon floor to put the nuts on. Weld the differential mounting tabs on the tube that supports the rear suspension.

The A/C only loads the engine when it is on. You can feel the A/C compressor when it engages. I doubt you could feel the difference with the fan change. You can feel the difference between SPFI vs Carbed.

That would work. I swapped a carbed EA82 engine into a SPFI car - but I kept the SPFI the car came with - just swaped the intake manifolds. SPFI has more power.

Yes. I'd consider swapping the harness, since you have the whole thing anyway. The big differences are in the legths from the engine to under the dash.

I'm not 100% sure - I think 86 / 87 - I had a 1986 EA82 w/carb, and have a 1987 EA82 with SPFI.

I have a Coil Sert repair kit for M11x1.25 part number is IK405-11. I bought it online somewhere a few years back.

SPFI EA82 1987 = 88 = 90 = 92 use the same fuel pump. Very likely other years also, but I have owned those years.

A few thoughts: The rear suspension is built lighter than the front. Just by looking at the size of springs, diameter of the strut / shock rods. The front has to carry the engine & transmission full time. Any "normal" load you put in the wagon will mostly be on the rear wheels. When I can, I place heavy loads in the center of the car, over where the rear seat would be if it wasn't folded down. About 1/2 the load is on the front & half on the rear if the load is centered in the front to back direction.

There seems to be confusion here - A 92 Loyale would have been SPFI. I didn't see any reference to the OP installing a weber. But I have missed things ocasionally. An O2 sensor that old wouldn't surprise me if it were bad. Side note / trivia: The EA82 O2 sensor is a lot cheaper than the 2 required for a 2001 Forester.

I have not had a bad coil. All but one of my EA82s have been run to 160K-205K miles. Years ago, I went to do a compression test on my 86. So I did what I always had, remove the plugs, unhook the high tension wire from the top of the coil. When I hit the starter for the first test, the arc jumped right up and out of the coil to the nearest screw terminal. So a normal working coil can throw an arc over 1" long.

Probably a coincedence. How old is the O2 sensor? Has the engine been running properly? I have had no trouble using the Bosch O2 sensor from NAPA in my EA82s.

+1 to that. Been there, done that. Almost fried an engine when the fuel line failed only a year or so later.

The only thing the ECU is checking to generate this code is that the coil of the solenoid is not open. (or possibly shorted) It has no idea if the EGR valve is working, or if it is even there. My fix for "normal" operation: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

A few bits of info: I have a rotary compressor removed from a window air conditioner. I attached 1/4" flare fittings to the input & output so it is compatable with the standard A/C meter / manifold hoses. I have used it to recover refrigerant, and to pull a vacuume on a system. It will boil water at room temperature. It can only be run for 10-20 minutes as a vacuume pump when pulling a hard vacuume, as there is no cooling. So I cycle it. NAPA sells the dye that helps find leaks. My 86 3AT 4x4 wagon had a relay in the A/C control system that dropped the compressor when you hit the gas. I have moved this relay from car to car as the bodies have rotted away...

The timing belts are no mystery - if you read the descriptions found in various threads & procedures here. Having replaced I don't know how many timing belts in 20 years, I have never had to adjust the timing. If I had to guess, from experience, I'd say intake to heads gaskets are most likely. If you haven't done things at theat level, maybe set out to do just the intake to head gaskets. A good way to get to the point of feeling comfortable taking on a big job is to do a few smaller ones first. BE careful removing the bolts. Old steel bolts in aluminum are often stuck. I don't know how to learn this, other than the hard way, but I can usually feel if a bolt is turning & sticky or if it is twisting off. Stickyness is just resistance / friction to turning. If you are feeling a bit of springyness, you are aproaching the yeild point where it will twist off. Working CCW then CW and repeating, even if it is only a few degrees will gradually loosen and go a little further each time. Use patience, not force. I have had the best luck running the engine to normal operating temperature first. While everything is still hot, drain the coolant (be careful, as the coolant should be under pressure - unless the leaks are really bad..), and work at loostening the manifold to head bolts. Penatrating oil helps also. Reassemble with anti seize - I have found that I have to go to the lighter end of the torque specs due to the lubrication qualities of the compound.

The intake manifold gasket/s can fail, allowing coolant into the intake... Never saw one intermittant though.