DaveT

Aero Kroil. Soak & wait, as you said. With rusty stuck bolts, I have found that alternately loosen & tighten can remove a bolt that would twist off if you just try to unscrew it all at once. You have to have a good feel for when the bolt is turning VS twisting off. Hard to learn until you twist a few off.:-\ VERY light impact can sometimes help shake things apart also.

The weld on washer or nut trick is the way to go. This is too late in this case, but I have found that if you run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature, then remove the bolts, it is less likely for them to break off. Or - put the manifold on with the missing bolt, run till hot, quickley remove and then do the weld trick. Part of the reason this works is that the aluminum block expands at a much greater rate than the steel bolts. That's why heating the block helps.

The 4 wire one could be for the A/C pressure switch. The blue 2 wire - possible radiator fan power. The horns are behind the front bumper. Hard to see if you don't know they are there. One each side. Easy to see with the bumper removed.

Look at my post above? (I don't mean this to sound snippy) The ratios are what I found made it workable & how to adjust the them. From experience. I'd like to know more details about the chemical changes.

I would like to know what happens also. I figure the lighter components evaporate away. Car gas tanks are not sealed, temperature changes will eventually vent fumes & bring in air & moisture. Gas over 2 years old mixed with fresh runs ok with a ratio of 2:6 - 2G of old 6G of new. The old stuff is filtered & settled to remove water. I've run some fresher dead gas straight, with no trouble. Some I had to mix 50/50. I would think that with the lighter, more volatile components gone, it would be harder to burn. But when the old gas / new gas ratio is too much too old, I get knocking. So add a couple more gallons of new, problem fixed. Another sign of close to too much too old is harder starting. But this I would expect, since less volatiles would be even further reduced by the cold temperature.

The LED is behaving normally for no trouble codes. It is normal for relays to be warm when energized. The coil uses about 2 watts + or -. 10 amps flowing through the contacts to the headlamps might add a little also. I would not run Hi & Lo beams together on the stock harness. The common wire on the lamp isn't sized for the higher current. I built a system for my 1976 that ran 4 Hi/Lo headlamps, with relays, switches and heavy wire to select various combinations of "presets", including *all* filaments on for high beams. 460Watts of H4 quartz halogen brightness. None of the current went through existing stock wiring.

I put a socket adapter in an electric drill and use it to turn the oil pump until it loads up - oil in all the channels. THEN install the timing belts.

Here is a pic of my Toe in adjustment check. The 2 blocks are about 3-1/2" tall. The metal bar is actually 10' of Unistrut. It doesn't need to be 10' long. I used it because I have a bunch. What you need is a straight bar. Heavy helps, as you want it to stay touching the tire. Be sure it is not touching the hubcap. Set up a duplicate of this on the opposite side. Measure at the front & rear of the tire. I use 2 tape measures to save time.

I second the radiator, just to confirm. Check the fine fins between the tubes. If they are loose, falling out or missing - it's new radiator time. Especially check where the electric fan shroud hides the fins.

Here are a couple of things I've had happen: One of my older Subes was in an accident. I discovered a bent strut - that the collision repair shop missed. I didn't know it was bent until I was installing a new cartridge. They were the rebuildable struts on my 76. The cartridge slid in but stopped a few inches before it hit bottom. The bend was not visible with the strut on the car. It handled better after replacing the bent strut. EA82 alignment experience: One morning I ran the left front wheel into a golf cart battery. Low speed, just moving in the driveway. After a few days, I discovered that my front tires were wearing badly, on the outside. They even bubbled the tread off the steel belts. I looked & looked for bent parts, etc. Put on another pair of (used but good) tires, killed them in about a week, also. For lack of any other ideas, I got out the manual, and checked the toe in. It was way off. Adjusted it, even centered the steering wheel. The car steered better than it did before the incident. Tires lasted longer also, so it was out a bit before my oops. Toe in is easy to check. I use a pair of straight bars, setting on blocks near the wheels. Push the bars against the tires. Use a tape measure from on side to the other, just in front & just behind the tires. If the measurement is different by more than 1/8" I'd start looking at adjusting. (get out the FSM & check the official specs)

I've had them fail both ways. Quick failure, big leak & smoke show, and slow, small leak, no symptoms until the car doesn't shift right.

Going from memory - I think the factory wiring makes the fog lights go off when you switch on high beams. The relay "G" pin wired to the red/yel is my guess. The white w/ fuse holder should be battery +. To use a toggle, it looks like ground the "G", feed accessory + to your switch, switch to the "S" on the relay. If you temporarily wire a lamp in series with any + 12V feed wire into the unknown / unsure circuit, you have a current limiter that will protect most of the parts & fuses. For a relay signal, use a brake light bulb, heavier current, use a headlamp.

Welcome. 1 - could be loose shields. Bang on them when cool, if you hear a similar sound, remove the loose ones. Other possibility - Most of my EA82 cars don't like 87 octane & ping during mild crusing. It sounds similar to a loose sheild. 2 - I have run both tires you mention. Never noticed a difference. I don't like the 185s because they don't fit in the storeage space in the engine compartment. 3 - Not sure... These aren't luxury cars. Check all the other suspension parts? 4 - Some run no covers - I have 1 w/o, my main concern is if a mouse decided to make a nest in there.... The pullys get more surface rust if you drive infrequently. 5 - I didn't either, but with road rage & carjackings, I decided it isn't a bad idea. 6 - I get around 21mpg. Heavy on the accellerator. 65MPH on the highway. 65 is about 4000 RPM on all but 1 of my EA82 wagons. I'm not sure what is off on the one different one.

I agree with GD & the others with the details. I did some looking a while back, found these: http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=46&osCsid=685950d0c15e445445a9ce0c2acbcb7b They might even fit where the front turn signal lamps are - of course, those have to be relocated somehow...:-\ I'm thinking about building LED headlights that fit in place of the stock ones - what to use for the lens is the challenge...

I have learned - if you hear that dead bearing sound - find it & fix it, or you will be stuck somewhere. Sometimes it is the fan belt idler, sometimes one of the 3 timing belt tensioners / idler.

A few bits of info from my experiences: Smoke has nothing to do with once / week. The white smoke could be a small intake manifold leak - coolant passage to intake. If one hose had a leak, replace all 7 coolant hoses. I would either have the radiator cleaned & tested or replace it. Stop leak = bad - last resort to limp home. Check the fine fins that are between the tubes of the radiator - if they are loose & falling out, get a new radiator. Especially in the corners of the electric fan shroud. I got an all metal, non - china radiator here: http://www.usaradiator.com/ You can have a small head gasket leak that lets combustion gas into the coolant passages. Over time there will be black gunk leaving a ring in the coolant overflow tank. Every EA82 engine I have ever had run hot - even once - with low coolant has needed at least a head gasket job - instantly or months later, or in between. I never ran one repeatedly with cooling problems .

Yes, bolts would be all wrong. With a stud, there is full engagement of all the threads before any tension is built up by tightening the nut.

They should be 10 x 1.25. My 76 had the same size as my Loyale / EA82s. They screw into the head about 1/2 inch, maybe a little more. The studs I have are about 1 3/4 " long. I've seen slightly shorter & longer ones.

4WD solenoid. Wires go to the 4WD button.

Timing belt Idlers & tensioner too.

Not stupid. We need to find someone familiar with the chemistry of fuels. Definitely a project for a separate shed w/ventilation & shade.

I recently got a 2 row from http://www.usaradiator.com All metal, not made in China. I did have to modify the bottom pins - I don't know if I got "lucky" with a slightly out of spec radiator, or the car frame is off, but a little grinding & TIG fixed it. I had a bad experience with one of the $120+- radiators the seller, actually. The one with the fake online "chat". I specifically asked for all metal 2 row with the return port angle up, they sent a plastic cap 1 row return port straight. I had to drive over 30 miles round trip to return it, and the jerk didn't want to refund, only swap me another crap plastic cap 1 row radiator. I was livid, and the guy even implied that I had ordered the wrong one! The lowest price isn't always the best deal.

R-12 is the original. There are conversion kits, I never used one. eBay.

They are hidden by the plastic trim I have / had an 86, 87, 88, 90, 92. All have gutters under the trim.

This sounds tricky, here are few things that come to mind: I'm thinking most likley is the alternator or regulator. Check for bad ground - connect one meter lead to the case of the alt. the other to the battery -. You should only see a small voltage. Try different load / no load / engine on / off. The mystery voltage on the stereo power lead could be leakage from a control line - on / off or clock? Or if it has a large capacitor on the input, it would hold a couple volts for quite a while with only a meter connected. I'm guessing the battery is ok - It cranks the engine, has normal (slightly high) resting voltage. A good flooded cell battery ranges from 12.0V (full discharge) top 12.6V (full charge) AFTER sitting for a number of hours with no loads. The Optima is a starved electrolyte cell, so the exact numbers might be a little different. To measure high current you need a shunt. Cheap way: get a length of wire - like 12" of #10 or #8. Look up the ohms per 1000 feet. Do a little math to figure out how many ohms you have. Connect the wire in series with the circuit to measure, connect your VOLT meter across the measured lenght of the wire. Ohm's law to get the current. As long as the shunt wire does not get warm, the reading will be accurate enough. Middle cost way. Find a surplus .001 ohm 1KW resistor. It works very nice for this. I got the one I have a very long time ago, so I have no idea where to get another, unfortunately. Google/ebay?? Expensive way: $2000.00 Tektronix current probe. clips right onto the existing wire. Disable / remove fuses from all circuits not needed to run the engine, see if anything is causeing weird loading? Swap the alt / battery from another car?