Storydude1

I hate to say it, but you will find more than a .05% differnce in circumfrence in NEW tires. NO tire is EXACTLY the same size as another. I've found new tires to be as much as 1/4" off between a set. IF you must use old, and new, split them old/new PER AXLE. One old, one new. The differential will eat up 99.997% of the difference. NEVER put new on only one axle.

Great minds think alike. See my post a few pages back.

Cheapest I found was over 250 for both pipes. I went with a 45* piecemeal tube, some 4" round muffler(not ricer..But not sure WHAT it came off of stock) 2 2 foot replacement pipes, and some clamps. Sounds nice and throaty now. Think I'll have a problem running the pipe centered down the tunnel for the driveshaft? Cleaned up the bottom of the car, and tucked it away nice and clean.

I kinda need everything from the transmission mount back... GF tried being snowblaster, and folded the entire thing back like a taco.

Already did. More to replace it than I dropped for the car. Looks like Napa's getting a call, and the legacy's getting a straight pipe, and cherry bomb.

You people are overthinking the problem. The Duty C goes from open, to closed. The rate at which it does that, determines the amount of power going to the rear. Now, a PCM controler is Not needed if all you want is a semblance of 4wd. Take Multimeter, and measure resistance of Duty Cycle c. Splice wire from Duty C, and allow the circuit to be cut. This will lock Duty C. Run wire from SPDT switch to interupt Duty c, and send that signal into a resistor of the same value as the Duty C. TCM should not freak out, you get 4wd, and no complex stuff is needed.

300 freeking dollars????????????????? And why a muffler is over 200? So, it's a FACT that a stock replacement is NOT going on my 93 AWD Legacy wagon. Anyone have any luck custom fabbing an exhaust? Keep in mind I'm poor. The y pipe is in good condition, I have another center converter I can use, I just need advice on muffler, and pipes. Anyone help?

Massive Clutch Dump? Were there any burnout marks in the area? Doughnut marks? I think your son beat it untill it broke. that, Or the mechanic totally messed up.

Wow..Then I guess that hose in my Hatch goes ALL the way to the front? And by-passes the bottle by my Jack? Learn something new every day....

Inch and 1/4 in South Buffalo now. We are going to get hit.

Ground it is.. Check your wiring on your aftermarket radio. Ground the radio direct to a underdash metal ground. Of course, it could be noise picked up from the powersupply plugged into the lighter.

Well, it takes about 100 amps to burn 1/8" 6011 on 1/4" steel. Mine does that no problem. You have to understand you are running the Alt WILD. NO regulation. Unregulated, an alternator CAN produce those loads. I've stalled out 2 5HP motors in series with my 130 amp SI Alt. running full field. Look at the Video above. He's running a CI 150 Amp Alt modified. Off hand I see over a 5KW load in the dryers, and lights. Plus, when I strike an arc, OCV drops to around 60V@100A+/- 25V. Anything over 30V will strike an arc. EDIT: You have to understand, all an alternator consists of is a 3phase AC generator, and diodes that rectifiy the 3pAC into DC.

http://hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=9695 http://www.novajeepers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7954&highlight=weldernator http://whiteknight.ca/FORUMS/index.php?showtopic=661&st=15 http://mywebpages.comcast.net/t.molnar/Obwelder4.htm MANY links on that page. How about a Plasma cutter running a Ford Large frame alternator? 200 OVDC@35Amps? http://forums.diywelder.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=791 http://media.diywelder.com/alttest500k.wmv Alternator Tig? http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml Want me to show you how to make an Air compressor out of a 12V battery, Electric motor, Propane tank, and Air Conditioning compressor? Didn't want this to come across as a flame post, just sharing information.

Most off road rolls happen at UNDER 5mph. Most of those rolls have the potential to KILL you. Sure, it's only 5mph...just like it's only 2500LBS of car coming down on your head when you slip 1/2 out the window.

Just saw this thread. Ignition noise(whine through speakers in time with RPM's) is usually due to bad grounds. when you replaced the radio, you probably tightened up the connection.

Yep..Massive Vac. Leaks=no running.

Well, it can produce high quality 110VDC at 0 hertz.. It will work for Brushed tools(drills grinders and the like) as well as lights. I have a Weldernator in my jeep.. SI Large frame alternator with the diode trio removed, and the brush holder grounded to the case. I can get about 130 Amps at 110-140VDC@2500RPM. Now, you CAN get AC out of an alternator(hence the name) but it's running around 200Hz. You run the Alt wild(no regulation) and RPM directly relates to Voltage output. Google Weldernator, or Alternator Tig. that will give you a good starting point for Alternator modifications. A modified Alt also works good for a portable Jump box, or for a portable trail welder. All you need is a 5HP side shaft motor, a plate of metal to mount both to, a 12V motorcycle battery for field, and some cords.

I'm not understanding what you are saying? By it goes, and goes, and goes, it DOES continue to spin? Bad bearings usually stop quick, and make noise. An alternator is a pretty simple unit, and has many applications out fo a auto enviroment. Now, there are 2 things that can go bad in an alt.(electrical). Open in the field circuit, and bad Diode trio. If the alt is not charging, or overcharging, it's usually the Diode trio. An open in the Field is easy to find. You need to put 12V across the case, and the field wire(check wiring diagram for the right one) If the Alt gets hard to spin by hand, the field circuit is good. The Diode trio is usually easy to replace, but can get spendy. Now, if you really want to get tricky, I can show you how to make an alternator into a TIG welder, Generator, Portable welder,or battery charger/starter. EDIT: My vote is to go with the New/rebuild unit.

But 90% of roads are made from oil...And I'll bet one blown transmission on a city bus spews more oil than my sprayed car does. FWIW, you want a fog..not a 1/4 inch thick coating. It usually drips for about an hour, In my driveway.

It is good stuff if you do not already have rust. Once rust starts, NOTHING will stop it. Slow it down, yes, but not stop it. Living in Buffalo has made me understand that salt=the devil. My grandfather used to take used motor oil and spray the underside of EVERY car he owned before winter. It dripped, stunk, and was a mess, but his cars NEVER rusted. Too nad the EPA probably would fine you you firstborn nowadays.....

It eventually will leave you stranded. slippage makes heat. Heat hardens the Flywheel, making hard spots that the clutch cannot grab.(for lack of a better, more complicated explaination) Sooner or later the car will become undrivable. Now, that was the bad news. The GOOD news is a Clutch replacement is not too rough of a job, And might not even be needed IF the Outback has a cable clutch..it might just be out of adjustment. Someone on here that knows the newer bodystyle will have to chime in and answer that one. If the clutch needs to be replaced, it's usually a 250-500 dollar job unless you are somewhat handy, and have access to tools.

Torque on demand..Kinda. The front gets 90 the rear 10 in normal driving. when the front slips, the rear is modulated to a maximum of 50/50. It is activated by a magical spirit that lives in teh rear of the transmission. This spirit loves to cause a symptom called torque bind where the rear does not unlock, and allow slip, causing the car to make disgusting sounds. Actually, it's a set of clutches(like a motorcycle) that are modulated with hydraulic pressure depending on what the Trannsmission computer tells it to. If it senses slip, it activates the rear a little more, to a max of 50/50. On older car with those clutches worn a bit, it becomes more like 70/30 because the clutches cannot hold as well.

Disregard..I need to read more. Is there a power loss?

"Marty" is a lawyer, or works for one. I've seen these posts before on MANY boards. He is fishing for information for a Class Action suit against Subaru. Not to start a flame war, but that's my take on this post. YMMV.

Grab. Pull. sometimes HARD. There are 4 little nubs that fit in rubber grommets. It will feel like it's gonna break, then pop free.