Storydude1

Living in the desert, you'd think there were hundreds of places to do just that.... But I have found 3 within a 100 mile drive. And 2 of them want over 70 bucks for that hose. Sorry, I know enough about hydraulic hoses to know there is less than 40 bucks in hose there, even accounting for the labor and materials. The 2 fittings shouldn't be more than 4 bucks each, 2 feet of #6 barrier is like 8 bucks. I guess running the crimper accounts for the other 50 bucks. I'm going to take the old hose to the junkyard and see if I can match fittings from some other vehicle. I DID find an online place that does custom hoses VERY cheaply, but lost the link :cry:

And I need AC. 1980 GL-5 2wd ea71, Looks to be a dealer installed system in it now, compressor is decent, but high side hose to condenser is fractured right at the flare. No joy on local yards for spares. Any source of custom AC hoses, or does anyone here have a spare they want to sell?

Yep. And all a parkerizing solution is, is phosphoric acid @ a 5% concentration and manganese or zinc dissolved into it, heated to 195*. I do firearms refinishing as well.

Before you POR, spray underbody liberally with Jasco Prep and Etch. It etches the metal, allowing POR to grab. It also makes a dandy parkerizing solution.

POR-15. there is no substitute.

Sweet. Thank you! I think it;'s going to be an easy paint job as there is no rust to speak of.....And the "silver" it is now, is metal..not paint LOL. Attacked it with a scotchbrite and prep work just lost 10 hours

Like title says, I looked through the big pic thread and know I found one in there, but am at a loss now. Anyone help? It's because Desertfind needs a coat of paint and I suck at photoshop.

Seafomed the Desert Find. After sitting for god knows how long empty of fuel, plugs looked like they were in my woodstove, evil off-idle stumble, went and bought total tune up. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air cleaner and oil filter for sub 60 bucks. My ATV costs more to tune up...... I singlehandedly caused global warming with my cleaning. got a plate sized PILE of carbon out of the pipe, stumble gone, still has a miss above 3K, but thinking that's valves needing adjusting....which is tomorrow.

I thought subaru's had an anti-siphon screen in the filler neck. I know my 91 legacy did....as the damn thing rusted and fell into the rubber hose.

LOL WUT? Sawzall, universal muffler, 2 repair sleeves and 4 clamps. Done. If you want to do stock-style, start hosing bolts down with PBblaster or Kroil NOW. Usually, the bolts snap before unscrewing, so be prepared to drill the bolts out of the flange. You might get lucky and they come apart easily though. I cannot remember if the studs are in the muffler pipe or in the exhaust pipe. If studs are in the muffler pipe, just cut the nuts off and slip new pipe into the exhaust pipe's flanges(exhaust pipe is the long one under the car) I usually just found a universal muffler, hacked the old one off and installed repair sleeves.

Thanks! Drove it today, here's the good, bad and ugly. Good: 122K miles Rides straight as an arrow, no vibes:banana: 70MPH is no problem and gets there surprisingly quickly. Runs pretty decently for a car that sat for 2 yrs with no fuel in it. Well, the Bad. 1. cannot find 3rd. It's there, and works, but shifter feels like a chopstick in a bowl of water. Any way to adjust the linkage? 2. Suction AC hose is broken at compressor. Any chance of finding a replacement or am I going one-off? Annnnd, the Ugly. 1.Most plastic parts in the interior are crumbling to the touch...Dash vents are now a few holes:banghead: they literally blew out when I turned the fan on. 2.Seats are not much better.

Hello all, been subaru-less for going on 5 years now, moved a few times and found myself in NW AZ. Picking this up tomorrow for a sum I will not disclose to avoid enragement and jealousy. 1979 1/2 (I think...) GL wagon. FWD, 1600 manual. Needs a new front seat, tune up and new rubber. But the best? It was an AZ car since new and NO RUST. What seats interchange with these?

Grover StutterTone>*.* Want that fire truck sound? That's the only thing that will give it.

1/4 quart of Marvel Mystery oil will free sticky lifters. Add to crankcase, drive for 100 miles, drain. Repeat as needed.

The lesson in this is to Anti-sieze EVERY bolt you touch. Will make this a non-problem NEXT time.

Salvage title=NEVER SELLING THAT CAR AGAIN in NY. Salvage title=Coverall for insurance companies...Could be small accident...could be fire repair. Salvage title=Walk away, or 85 bucks/Ton Scrap price.

Yep. My Fencrap clutch lasted 3K miles in my old Comanche. Replaced under warranty, the new one lasted 2K miles. New PP, Flywheel, input seal, Slave cylinder, and MAster with BOTH replacements. Last one was a NAPA replacement, and it outlasted the truck. CLutches are like Engine rebuild kits. Sure you can save a few bucks....but do you REALLY want to be ripping the crap out again in 4 months?

I would NOT touch any screws other than Attachment screws. Get some Throttle body cleaner, and spray the crap out of it. When you think it's clean, spray it some more.

X3 on the IAC.

I can confirm that the part number given fits a Dodge Ram W/318.

And the School towing vultures will claim that they towed it less than a mile. Not near long enough in a Judge's eyes to cause any damage. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt to prove it.

My guess is if School towed him, he was parked illegally. Therefore, all claims against the Towing company are Moot. "Illegally parked vehicles will be towed" sign makes any damage the owner's fault. sucks, but that's the way the courts will see it.

How about use the right tool for the job, and not give advice that could be mis-represented? That hub nut torque MUST be at specs, or above before driving the vehicle ANY distance. Breaking it loose, and then re-installing it looser(the whole reason for bringing it to the shop, remember) assures the bearing eating itself. I have not found ONE car that I cannot remove the hub bolt by hand on with a 2 foot breaker bar, and a 1-2 foot section of pipe slid over it. 175Ft/Lbs is not easy to move, and it's that tight for a reason. Not to be a wongleflute, but if you cannot work on your own car, or do not own the right tools, do not attempt the repair.

If by easier, you mean needing new wheelbearings, then, yes, it will be easier. The torque on the Castle nut is not for show....it holds the bearings together. Do me a favor, next CV replacement, do just what you describe. I'll LOL at your "I need new wheelbearings" posting.

On the enviromental note....ONE catylitic converter releases more Greenhouse gasses during it's production than that vehicle it's installed on will produce in a LIFETIME. And that, is a FACT. Added to the fact that one City Bus blowing it's transmission releases about 21 GALLONS of ATF onto the ground, makes my 1 quart of oil sprayed on my car a moot point. Wonder what you people would think about my Waste oil furnace.......