Storydude1

Just hoses if I can get away with it. It has AN style cone fittings on the compressor now, the high-side(compressor output to condenser in front of Rad) is broken...probably because someone (not me) didn't loosen up compressor before trying to change #2 plug.:banghead::banghead: I'm pretty sure the firewall fittings are the same across the different AC units, just different compressors and fittings at compressor. So, guess what I"m trying to get across is, if XXX's hoses are the same as mine, I just need the one hose. If XXX's compressor fittings are different, without the entire compressor, I may not be able to fit to the car's existing parts. Here's a shot of the broken hose...I probably could use all of them though. That's a 1/4" craftsman ratchet for size reference.

No, I'm in NW AZ now. I am from Buffalo. Thanks for the offer!

All auto fans pull air through the radiator.

Time to show a pic of DesertFind. And yes, that is overspray on the tires. It needs new ones anyway and I was tired of masking LOL

Yep. No visible leaks=MC is bad. You usually can see the paint bubbling on the booster if it's been leaking for a while. When you replace it, MAKE SURE to read the instructions for bench bleeding it BEFORE you install it. Every maker has a different procedure to bench bleed. AND when bench bleeding, DO NOT bottom the master cyl. plunger out. you WILL tear seals and be replacing it shortly if you do.

Have any pics of your lift parts? Usually, blocks/spacers between strut tower and strut bushings, spacers between subframe/Lower control arm mounts and body, and spacers between rack and body.

Unless you drop the rack same amount you lift the body, you are not going to be able to align it.

Easiest way to rig alt. once compressor is removed is a shorter belt. And THANK YOU. I can deal with heat, but the heat out here is like a convection oven...rolling windows down just blows hot air into your face LOL. You might want to spray AC fittings with pbblaster or the like..they have a nasty habit of corroding together making removal .....interesting.

Even with valves that far out, I made a 320 mile trip this weekend, over some 6K ft climbs and knocked down 34.8MPG @70ish.

Sounds inertia related. Like a loose wheel or rotor getting thrown back and forth. Ball joints tight?

Blown strut?

Did Valves on DesertFind today. I'll let the numbers speak for themselves. Spec is .010 intake, .014 exhaust. Pass side #1 and 3. #1 intake .029 #1 Exhaust .030 #3 intake .031 #3 exhaust .029 Drivers 2-4 2 intake .030 2 exhaust...040 4 intake .026 4 exhaust .029 1980 EA71 motor. 121K. I can safely assume they have NEVER been done. It IS much quieter and actually has some power now.

PLEASE do not cut anything. If you could, snap a pic of the compressor and the hose leading to the condensor. I NEEEEEED one. 109* on my front porch IN THE SHADE. If it's the same as my compressor I'll buy the hoses off you if they are solid. As for removal, 3 bolts usually holding on compressor, hoseclamp-type of mount for the accumulator/dryer and I wouldn't bother with the interior stuff...unless you like pulling dashboards apart as a hobby.:-p

After a quick change of color..... I think it's an improvement.:burnout:

I did a full tune up aside from timing and valves not 2 weeks ago. New cap was defective out of the box. I have to pick up gaskets today as parts house didn't have them in stock, doing valves tomorrow after she cools off all night. I know Valves need to be done as they clatter away even hot.

Think I found the problem. Pulled cap off last night and saw a TINY crack by #4 New cap and it runs better...not Perfect, but the stumble under high throttle/heavy load is much less. Still thinking the carb is kinda wonky but at least I no longer feel like I'm riding a mechanical bull crossing the pass.

DesertFind got her first coat of primer. Going "banner red"

Let me snap a pic and I'll get it out to you asap. Thanks!

Choke works correctly. It feels more and more like a misfire at this point. I'm going to adjust valves this weekend as they are kinda loud and hoping it's a valve lift issue causing it to flood out from short lift/duration. I know the valves have not been adjusted in a long time.

Yes, secondaries are opening. I've replaced most of the vac. lines thinking it's just a leak, but no joy. Vac advance is working as well.

1980 EA71 1600, runs great, little fast idle, if I roll into the gas slowly it revs to ~4500 before it starts misfiring/bucking/stumbling. If I mash the gas, once above 3000rpm, it farts and stumbles and feels like it's missing. Stock hitachi carb, only 120K on it. Could this be Valves out of adjustment? Cold or hot, makes no difference, once the secondaries open, it runs like it's running rich, BUT no black smoke from tailpipe. Fuel filter is brand new, carb was sprayed and seafoamed for 2 tanks. It almost feels like a miss, but all wires ohm out correct and are new, just replaced NGK vpower plugs, cap, rotor. timing is an unknown but never looks to be moved judging by condition of bolt and grime on motor. Any thoughts? and NO WEBER CONVERSION...I only paid 300 for the car, not going to dump another 3 into a carb LOL.

At highway speeds, a spinning fan will actually DECREASE the amount of cooling air forced through the rad. If you are doing a lot of highway driving, I can see a constant fan causing overheating. Of course, a temp sender is pretty cheap if you want to replace the one in your car already....

http://www.coldhose.com is the link I lost. Bulk fittings, Bulk hose and a VERY reasonable custom hose construction service. The hi-side to condensor hose for the Desertfind comes to under 30 bucks shipped.

Might as well turn this into a resto/rebuild thread. Today, cleared 30 years of goop out of the squirters, Ft/R, got rear wiper working(no real need, it rains 3X a year here), Fixed Funky electric fan setup P/O had on it. Scotchbrited what was left of the "paint" in prep for Priming this week. No worry about Rust...It was 7% humidity today. Also ordered the hi-side hose I needed from http://www.coolhose.com for a really cheap price. Hopefully I can have AC by end of next week...when it's supposed to be in the 100's. Seems to be running better and better the more I drive it..Seafoam in tank is doing it's job cleaning jets. Plans are: repaint Red. Wife's car, she wants red. Figure out some stereo option so she can get more than God'N Country. Drive the wheels off it. Stay tuned.

Honestly, this hose shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks. Standard fittings, standard hose, under 2 feet long. The online place quoted me 24.66 shipped for 1 90* turned fitting with AN flare, 24" of #6 barrier and one straight AN flare. I had a hydraulic hose made for a Massey Furgeson tractor from the 60's and it only cost me 62 bucks. No reason a smaller hose, with standard fittings should be MORE. It's nothing fancy or needing special order fittings. It's more of the "You need it so we are gonna ding you" pricing. I may get tricky and use the same style of fittings and hose my 80 F150 has...That doesn't even use fittings but instead AC rated hose clamps. Really, the hoses push onto barbs on compressor and other parts and use hose clamps to secure them. The cutting edge of Dealer installs.....in 1980.