babyfacefitz

So the e-motors impreza header will fit the OBW? The price for that 221497299785 is $1200. My wife would freak out at that price. I plan to go with something under $200. I like the looks of the one Nicholi recommended, but that is listed for impreza also. Will any of these two fit my 2001 OBW 2.5 with dual exhaust ports? thanks guys

I want to swap out my y-pipe for a header. There is a $140 AP exhaust products and a $80 Bosal on amazon. Any recommendations. I had a mandrel bent oversize header before and liked the noticeable difference. thanks

thanks guys, I should probably replace them. Doing my own work is saving enough. Michael

With the help of youtube and this site, did my first timing belt a month ago. Now a different subaru (2001 OBW) I plan to do a head gasket replacement. Where is a good place to order a kit that includes the head bolts. I got my felpro kit last time from amazon for @$130 but it doesn't have the head bolt. The bolt set runs @ $53. I bet there a good set with all the stuff for cheaper somewhere. thanks Mike

At the junkyard it was $6, that's pretty cheap. I usually go for better parts but this was too cheap and easy to replace to pass up.

I see the split now, thanks. I'm away from the car today but I'm sure is has a MAF. I thought that was downline from this split. Warm weather dance is needed, I want to work on this car.

Should the resistance measure between 400 and 700 kilo ohms?

You guys are good. The previous owner said the knock sensor code was coming up. I though I was supposed to ignore that code. I hope a can of sea foam, new wire and plugs, and new fluids fixes everything. Michael

Got a picture on imgur. The flashlight is shining on the wet spot. Pass. side, rear side of the heads, right at gasket junction. http://imgur.com/IYdY8Vb

thanks Gary, The leak is fresh and wet though. I haven't got the maintenence records yet from the seller. There is an exhaust leak at the junction past the two caty's. The leak is fresh and wet though. With out a garage I need to wait till 30's weather. But looking forward to working on this. If it need HGs, should I tackle this after some tutorial videos? I did my timing belt for the first time two weeks ago on another suby.

Just yesterday I bought an 01 OBW but didn't look at it long enough. There is a slight/moderate smell of gas under the under and can't find a gas leak. I did notice the back of the engine, on cal. #3 there is a good leak, looks like oil and coolant. The seller told me the HG had been done... but I guess this is a sign the HG need to be done again correct? Could a HG leak have some gas in it? I scraped the ooze down near the leak and I could smell gas. The coolant level was just less than a cup low. Dip stick looks good. There is a p0420pd code, all monitors clear except caty.

What years for the baja? thanks

I assume the springs and coils are interchangeable for 2001-2004.

Just got a 2001 OBW with 163K. I put four KYB on my 2002 that now has a rod knock. So I plant to swap out my good parts. I put a lot of weight in back daily and would like to have stiffer rear springs. I've been looking around and only see stiff in Australia and UK. Tire rack doesn't have any. Are there some aftermarket stiffer springs available? Should I not put any spacers in there? I would not mind the extra height but I really want stiffer springs. thanks

Oil look ok...Nothing obvious on the dip stick. I might drop it to see it in a jar. I'm looking for a short block or used engine to swap. Those used running suby's on CL are tempting to get.

thanks I'll take a close look at my oil. With the rod knock, should I get an overhaul on this engine or get a replacement engine. This one has 143K on it. Mike

oops video link

Back story... three months ago start home and five mins into the drive temp gauge is sky high. Refilled rad. with some water and I limped home with the keeping the temp gauge happy by keeping the rpms around 3k. My heat was my canary in the cave, it would cut out if my rpms were to low. I guess the water pump had some air cavitation. paid a duty dealership mechanic to replace the HG, timing belt, water pump Engine had a ticking sound, especially when cold around 2k-3k. Thought is was a piston slap. Over the last week I ran it the engine would die at a stop and that last time home ran real rough. Thought it might be my tensioner. I replaced the tensioner, pulleys and a new timing belt. I do think that tensioner had to be replaced, because the sound I heard on other videos about tensioner is gone, and the car does not die with the diving RPM's like it did before. But now the engine has a very loud sound. Is it a loud piston slap and I should just ride it out? Here's a link to hear the engine, at ten secs in you hear the louder sound I'm concerned about. thanks If it is piston slap, do you recommend marvel mystery oil? I just switched to sythentic the last oil change….?

My car can be heard on youtube. Any ideas?

I did have some codes but none relating to timing. I've always got the p0420 and p0420pd (caty eff. below 95% or not) but I did have p0122 and p1700. I forgot to clip back in the throttle sensor till after I started it. Should i post a link to a video to listen to the sound? I hope to have a stealership "buddy" listen to it this week. I might tow it to a local shop for a comp. test. Michael

Hey Tom, You mentioned a bent valve. When I was doing the timing belt, I noticed the passenger side cam gear moved pretty freely while the driver side had a compression to it. I started with the middle mark in the 12 o'clock position per the directions. Would that free wheeling cam gear show a problem? I'll check for codes. Compression test would help me a lot. Mike

I don't think my timing belt slipped. There was no sensor code and the lines looked good before I pulled the timing belt. The "tooth" I repaired was just the plastic shield cover for the access hole. It didn't seat just right since one of the tooth or better word is clips was missing. I will see what my friend says about the HG job. I had been telling him about smelling coolant and looked but didn't see nothing till today.

Bad news. The car is back together…not running right. Might have found my real problem. That HG job I had done two months ago must have issues. I've got coolant pooling on top of the heads on the pass. side. The tick is loud enough to be a knock, and I think it's coming from the back pass cylinder. My friend from a suby dealership did the HG job and didn't get the heads machined. The two of them said they don't do that at the dealership. I used multilayer felpro gasket set. I've been smelling coolant ever since the job. It running rough and dies after a dive in the rpms. Any ideas?

I found directions to stop the flywheel with a screwdriver. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/47370-crank-shaft-pulley-tigtening-ideas.html When I went to put the plug back in I noticed one of the "holding teeth" was broken. Put it on and two dabs of gorilla glue should hold it.

On the main crank shaft pulley. Is there a trick to get the 133 ft/lbs. Won't the engine just turn? Should I use the thread locker?