babyfacefitz

Well I got into the instrument panel and found the CEL bulb missing. Got a replacement and now it stays on. But I think the code should be clear. i will be checking on that tomorrow. Now once I have the panel together, my fuel gauge went to low and the with my driver door open, I get the signal for door open for the driver side and the rear hatch. I checked the wires,and all seem plug in. Michael

I got this 98 outback ready for my state inspection and I cannot pass b/c the check engine light (CEL) will not come on, evern at the beginning. The code for misfire and bad anti knock sensor has been cleared, after the parts were installed. I have never see the light come on, even when I has having engine trouble. For a DIY, what ideas can put the light out of commision. I have checked the fuses. Could it just be the bulb? Michael

With all the ample space to change the plugs, i broke that spark plug when I tried to get out the extension and socket. Now I have a new coil, good wires and new sensor, and have not been humbled from a broken plug in ten years. Here is my recommendation... I just learned how hard it is to do the spark plug change on the DOHC 2.5 engine. Since the room is so small, I had to grind down the ball catch thing in my extension. There was not enough room to put in the 16 mm socket and the extension at the same time. It was much easier to get out with the "catch ball" ground out, since they would then easily seperate. I broke one of the plugs, (#4) before I modified my extension. Michael

I just learned how hard it is to do the spark plug change on the DOHC 2.5 engine. Since the room is so small, I had to grind down the ball catch thing in my extension. There was not enough room to put in the 16 mm socket and the extension at the same time. It was much easier to get out with the "catch ball" ground out, since they would then easily seperate. I broke one of the plugs, (#4) before I modified my extension. Michael

thanks guys, Well the codes are off, but she still runs rough after warming up, but just in the 2500 rpm range. I am about thru my first tank with seafoam. Put some down the pvc. It seems to be a bit better but still there. funny thing, the code is clear but it still misfires at idle and in the range. I think I will wait and see what happens with the next tank. but I need to pass inspection soon. Michael

well thanks guys, I have experience so the boots have been checked. I did buy the best beldens and that started all my problems. then went to OEM at the dealer wires, they are not NKG though. i did look at magnecor and wanted to get theirs, but no listing. I think the belden took out my anti knock sensor. i did the resistor fixed but ended up putting in the new anti knock sensor. I is a biaotch to get those wires in, and I love to hear/feel the click, but these are hard. i did the ecu thing, 10 minute but did not do the brake light drain. It is sitting right now with the ground off and brake on. see what it is like in the morning. going to switch wires to narrow the search, and drive some of the seafoam thru it. michael

Well here is the short story, replaced plugs, wires, anti knock, pcv and ran sea foam thru pcv. Hestation is better, anti knock code was there. It is still there with a cyl 4 misfire I can feel. Should I wait for the tank full of the 1/2 can of seafoam? I made sure the contact was good in the anti knock. The four wire test out good on ohms. What is my next step before I let someone else work on it for hire? Michael

It is nice to know where to go, with out hitting the dealers. Though some are good. Webster Groves has been nice and most of my experiences at LF have been good. I might want to get my headgaskets replaced, any local shops good for that? michael

There are post that mention that belden give off too much EMI and can mess up the sensor. I took back my beldens two days after I got them b/c of the problems. the good post mention the ohm reading for beldens are out of the specs. I got some OEM at the dealer for the same price. Things are better now except for the knock sensor. I think the sensor might have went bad with the EMI (electromagnetic interference) Thanks for the heads up, I saw the pics. I also read someone just putting in a resistor b/c the anti knock sensor is not really needed. Michael

I converted a 90-94 suby (I can't remember the year). But you need to get some coil springs. Look around at the junk yards. Michael

I have used lucas before...but this heaven of a forum pushes the seafoam. I will get some tomorrow. I will check up more on getting it in the hoses. Thank you Michael

I have a 98 OBW, I am getting some missing around 2500 rpm after putting in some good belden plug wires. After reading I learning to go get the OEM and put them in, it appears to be the anti knock sensor. After I get the code reader tomorrow, I plan to change the anti knock sensor most likely. Where is it located? I replaced the plugs with NKG, but did not use the anti seize. SHould I get back in there soon and get some in there? It has 153K and I plan to get a lot of miles. Where do I get seafoam? I wish I knew about this forum ten years ago when I first started driving subys. This place is great. michael

I got a "deal" I thought, bought it for $2700. Thanks for the response.

I have bought five or so 90-94 legacys on ebay. Just committed this week to a 98 outback lmt 2.5 and have been reading about the gasket issues. Is this too risky of a gamble, should I back out of the ebay deal? Is replacing the gasket an option to avoid the damage? Are the unfortunate owners just blowing up the issue? thanks for any response. Michael