babyfacefitz

I got a 98 OBW with 230K. Last inspection (four months ago) they said one of my inner tie rods had a bit of play, but within their limits. Over the last week of so, at 40 mph of more, I get a rhythmic pulsating sound from the front, driver side I think. And the sound comes with a slow bank to the right, so I thought wheel bearings. But when I jacked it up today, there was no bearing noise spinning the wheel. I could feel some play in the wheel. While moving it I could see the play in the tie rod too. could this rhythmic sound come from just the tie rod? If it is the wheel bearing, should I get a knuckle? from the junk yard? I have done wheel bearings before but not on a suby yet. thanks Michael

FIXXED!!!! It turned out to be the fusable link AND a 20 amp fuse inside. It was a middle row one and once it got replaced the alarm was doing its job. They didn't have a fusable link that was a perfect replacement at two stores (advanced and car quest) but the junk yard had extras. Thanks guys. Michael

I love this site. It offers the correct advice, what to look for...what to think about...all those ins and outs of working on cars. I'm a good mechanic, good diagnosis but can make bone-headed mistakes. I have a friend that works at a local dealership as a mechanic. Last summer I asked him to help me with a HG replacement on my 230K 98 OBW. It eventually worked but when we pushed up on the tranny pan, a wire snipped and I was getting a code. Again it was this site that solved the problem. Since then there has been numerous times where I thought I could ask him for advice and ended up telling him what I learned off of here. I know there is better mechanics at the stealership but... let's keep the message positive. This site is great.

It's an OBW 98. The first inspection of the fuses looked clear but checking continuity with my OHM meter I found the "wire" fuse cooked. The wife is off doing her "barnes and noble time" and she will return with the part. I jumped the connection with the remained piece of wire and the dash light up. But no clicking on the starting attempts. I think I need to charge the battery some today and give it a good college try. More updates to come. thanks guys...this site is great. I have a friend that works at a local suby dealer....actually this point deserves it's own post.

Okay start the laughing now.. Took battery out b/c it was drained a dome light drained it a bit and it was around 5 degrees. Warmed up the battery overnight and the batter was showing 12.7 v so I put it back it but with the terminals reversed. Tried to start it and realized my mistake. No it won't do the regular clicking sound and just the door beep works. I thought reversing the terminals might burn a fuse under the hood but they all look good. What should I look for now? thanks Fitz

I have an OBW 98 with 224K. The AC had cold air but about the same it has had all along. I loved the cold AC the 90-94 legacy had. I will be checking with gauges later this week but my dealership friend didn't know how the isolate the clutch. Thanks guys.

My AC went out but was working the day before. I have had trouble with my AC on earlier legacys. With a mutlimeter can I test the see if the AC clutch is out? Michael

This code has a life. I can get it turned off and it will stay off for a week, maybe two days, it varies. I did have an issue with the wire but I fixed that. My solder job was clean and solid. Could the clip connector has some issues? Here was an earlier posting I had on this issue.. My 0743 code is coming back. Well lets update the story... -thought this was fixed because I did my headgaskets and while jacking up the tranny with a supporting plank of wood the tranny pan cut the blue wire. The code was coming up and found the wire issue when I dropped my tranny pan. I am really sure I got a good solder fix and bent pan flat. The code is coming back on but not right away like before. It will stay off but when I start the car sometimes the code comes back on. I check my #4 and 6 pins on the connectors and check all three before I dropped the pan.

With another code clearing session the CEL is off for a whole day. Hopefully the story ends here.

My 0743 code is coming back. Well lets update the story... -thought this was fixed because I did my headgaskets and while jacking up the tranny with a supporting plank of wood the tranny pan cut the blue wire. The code was coming up and found the wire issue when I dropped my tranny pan. I am really sure I got a good solder fix and bent pan flat. The code is coming back on but not right away like before. It will stay off but when I start the car sometimes the code comes back on. I check my #4 and 6 pins on the connectors and check all three before I dropped the pan. Any ideas guru? thanks Mike

A friend of mine who is a mechanic at the stealership is doing my HG on my 98 OBW with 220K on it. The temperature never spike till the last day. It never went over full tilt but got high up there for just a bit. When I check my warpage, would a new level from home depot work? What's the chances I need the heads resurfaced? He says most at the shop don't need it. thanks. Michael

Thanks for the responses. What years in the 2.2 are good? I loved the better mpg I got with my earlier 2.5. We plan to hit the timing belt and other issues. thanks for the list. ebay kits are new to me. Michael fitz

Got a OBW 98 with 220K and my blow pass bubbles are showing up. My temperature has not spiked and have been nursing it since the bubbles showed up last week. Should I get new gaskets put on with a buddy for the cost of @$300 or get a local motor for around $600 with less than 100K on it and put it in? I am also considering put'n in the replacement tranny. My tranny used to torque bind but with many flushes and the lucas oil treatment and most of the time I used the 4wd fuse trick. What do you think guys, new parts or a younger engine (which I will probably replace the head gaskets while it's out).

A friend has problems now with their caty from a autoparts wharehouse purchase. They have not had it one for long and are going to try to get a refund. I have a caty for my 98OBW that I have not installed. The list for cars for this caty 98 Forester 2.5L FRONT 95-01 Impreza 2.2L Front 96-97 Impreza 1.8L Front 98 Impreza RS coupe 2.5L Front 95-99 Legacy 2.2L Front 96-00 Outback 2.5L Front 96-97 Outback 2.2L Front Is there a chance of using my caty on their 2003 OBW with a 2.5? Thanks Michael Fitz

Thanks Guys... How could the stealership charge $250 for the labor and $75 part? I know I stay away from them but for an easy part, how could they go all the way there? I guess it shouldn't surprise me.

I friend of mine has been told he needs a new cam shaft sensor. I will be doing his plugs and wires on the 98 obw. How hard is the cam shaft sensor replacment? thanks Michael

Twisting was part of the initial trial phase. The review committee has been meeting and with a break in the schedule tomorrow, the project team with work on the plug wires.

I've changed out the plugs once before, but I think I running low on patience. Are the Prestolite just as good as the NGK wires? Michael

Yes, I'm going to replace the plugs and wires. I did this two years ago and with all the advice about beldens I want to get those out of there. Should I go with iridium NGK or which NGK. I called the dealership and they quoted me $375 for replacing wires and plugs. That sounds insane. Michael

On my OBW 98 with a 2.5, it's really hard to get the plug wires off the plug. I've tried plier and vise grips, but I just can't get the any of the set off. I was planning to swap out these lifetime belden NAPA wires. Any advice besides lifting the engine out? Michael

Well I got the new one on. The holes were a bit off so drilling helped but getting some new studs put in was the key. Having the studs to work the pipe onto was easier than trying the thread the stud into place. Went with dealer manifold gaskets 7.50 each. Michael

I purchased a y pipe exhaust manifold from a custom made guy on ebay. the mandrel bend pipes look good but the hole for the cylinder head studs are not lining up good. I think it might be easier to get some new studs from the dealer and have those place in the cylinder head and then wrestle with the y pipe. I am also ready to make the holes a bit bigger on the troubling spot. any suggestions? Michael

I should have mentioned my car is 98 OBW. The replacement manifold was from mufflerexpress on ebay. the custom pipe looks good.

I am putting on a new y pipe and first cat and need the gaskets for the exhaust manifold (y pipe). Should I use an aftermarket or head to the stealership? Thanks in advance. Michael

I have noticed that my 98 OBW rear bumper is sagging a bit. I looked around the site and could not find some advice. With 200,000 could some bolts be backing out and need tightning? Are the bolts accessed inside or outside? thanks michael