babyfacefitz

The pitman pullers at the local store didn't do it. A jack pushing up and the 2x4 on top of the control arm coming down did it. What is the tread size on the ball joint studs? My m12x1.5 and m12x1.75 didn't work.

what do you guys recommend for getting the lower control arm off the treaded stud? There is a rubber seal that makes the use of a pickle fork not usable.

Thanks Dave, I thought the housing (knuckle) for the bearing was the hub. Is there only one bearing to replace?

The 2002 OBW has 138000, and I can hear the bad bearing. (drifting in one direction much louder than the other direction) Should I replace the hub ($150 at stealership) or get the bearing pressed in ($50 part and $60 press labor). The machine shop said there might be more than one bearing? I assume it easier to get a new hub, correct? I has trouble with the 32 mm nut on end. Got the "cotter dent" out but no budging yet with 3 foot breaker bar. plan to let pb blaster work for now. Thanks Michael

can I change the hub myself? I've got an impact and metric sockets. I bet there's a tutorial but I could'nt find it. thanks Mike

The compressor makes a whine and adding R34 didn't make it work. It barely puts on the cold.

Thanks guys, I plan to swap out the wheels, rotors, and now the seats! I'll look at the suspension and take the coil, MAF. I wish the compressor worked. I guess switching the condenser is more work than just getting the right compressor? Mike

Anyone interested in some parts off a 98 outback wagon? My cousin wrecked the 98 I sold to my uncle. I think that A/C compressor will fit on my 02 forester. Would the seats transfer?

thanks guys, He has 180K on his 03, and drives his cars hard. Fitz

I friend of mine had his 03 OBW die on the highway. I assume it's a timing belt issue. The shop he had is towed to is hinting that he"ll need a engine. Looking around on the best suby site in the world I see he might have an interference engine in the 03 OBW. I bummed to learn suby has those now, my experience has been the timing belt going out won't damage the valves. Questions Does the 03 OBW have an interference engine. What type of cost range would fixing some valves run? What shops do you recommend in the Branson/Springfield MO area? Thanks Guys. Fitz

Update My friendly Firestone wanted $400 to put in the ball joints I got my replaced but it took heat, pb blaster and more heat. Took major heat and some impact/attitude to get out my first pinch bolt. I put in small hole on the back of the bolt and that might have helped too. I got excited and hit the next one with two much attitude and the head twisted off. Drilling it out enough for a good extractor worked...only with major heat again. eventually the top unthreaded part broke. I then work on the back and got it to thread out with the extractor backwards. Taking the linkage for the anti sway off the control arm helped removal and installation of the new ball joint. Now lets see if I get my inspection with new ball joints and the rear cylinders that didnt leak now or before. Thanks USMB. Now we'll

Nipper, thanks for the advice on the ball joints. I have a friend that might do it or I will tackle the ball joints. Michael

Thanks for the question Gary. I guess I don't have much questions now. I was feeling like ranting since I thought the shop was fibbing. I now found out some prices and methods. The shop inspected and said my rear brake cylinders were leaking. The inside of the drum/springs all look dry. Only the wheels studs had clear brake fluid on them. I think they needed more work and put the fluid on the studs. The hub had a little fluid on the outside ring from centrifugal force. No fluid on anywhere else. The driver side ball joint did have some play but the passenger is solid. I plan to replace the ball joint. I saw some direction on here and plan to let rust eater work for a couple of days. I guess I can take back the car and say the brakes aren't leaking and leave it at that. My mechanic friend that works a suby dealer wondered if I will still have to replace the brake cylinder if they say so. I update when I get back to the shop soon. Michael

Just got my first forester after year of OBW's. When trying to get my state inspection done the local "friendly" shop said my OBD would read ($89 charge to connect a different way) and rear cylinder were leaking. There for I needed all new parts in back, springs drums, etc. I asked if both were leaking, yes of course. ($350 on the brake). Getting home, my OBD reader worked just fine, no codes. The rear cylinders look good, the only fluid I can find is on the wheel studs. Questions? Are there kits out there? What years can the other cars work? 99-02 forester?, any legacy parts work? Do you find these can go out, or did these guys fib? thanks, Love USF! Michael

Got it. the steering column switch was pushed. Love USMB!

Second replacement pump work. Tested it before I put it in. But now my front yellow lights and rear driving lights won't turn off. Cycled thru the security alarm after reconnecting battery and they still won't turn off. I have unplugged the green relay connection and thought I put my dash back together. Any ideas? thanks for the help so far and in the future. Michael

With a online search I see the FSM is the factory service manual. It that available in this site? I should have been more thorough with my testing before I went for the relay. Is there a listing of the fuse panel on this site? I lost my cover for the fuse panel.

thanks guys. Where is the fsm? Michael

Update...I connected the green clips to get the relays cycling. At the FP connection, I get a jumping signal that goes up to 8 to 9 volts then off. I suspect the replacement pump I got is bad and I give up trying to get to relay. I will wait the week to get a second replacement and try that route. thanks guys Mike

I thought the Fuel Pump gets power with the key in the on position when the car is first turned on. With taking apart more of my dash I got a peak at one of the relays 10in above the fuse panel. I still don't see a way to get up in there to replace it with taking the alarm box and multiple wire clips out of my way. I am real bad with those clips and can't get some of them apart. Attached is a pic from ankle level looking up. How do I take out the fuse panel? Should I take out the alarm box and work my way up to the relay? thanks Mike

Thanks for the reply porcupine. I have checked the voltage at the FP connection with my wife turning the key. I get erratic voltage w my digital reader. The reading jumps around for a second or two but nothing near 12 v. I see 4v to around 8.5 at it highest. Some suggest taking off the fuse panel. I took off the knee panel and tried to take off the fuse panel (with the fuses in it). All I could find was a 10mm nut on the bottom and some side clips but it won't budge. But it doesn't look like removing the fuse panel will gain much. Should I take off the top of the dash? I need an instrument cluster bulb replaced to please my wife so I don't mind digging into it. But I really just want to get to the FP relay. thanks, Michael

Now I've taken off more panels on the driver side. Still can't see FP relay, could it be behind the glove box on a 98 OBW?

Upon further looking, the three blacks relays are not it. I guess I need to take off fuse panel to get higher up in the dash. Is it normal to have the factory alarm box in the way?

Could my fuel pump (FP) relay be colored black in an 98 OBW? I checked my voltages at the FP and none of them run up to the 12.5v my battery has. I checked the connect under the passenger seat. I have seen multiple post that mention the green relay but the fuse panel but there are three relays on mine and all of them are black. The factory security alarm box is stuff and zip tied right in front of these so just pulling them will be hard. Put on used pump and I still don't get fuel pumping out at the under the hood filter. What location on the 6 pin connector should I get a full 12v reading? thanks, Michael

My problem was a bad tire. The passenger rear has some belt broke and it's out of round. Fitz