johnceggleston

yes, you can drive it like that for as long as the duty c lasts, assuming the fuse eliminates the symptoms. but, you run the risk of wearing out the duty c a little earlier. (you can buy them online for ~$100, so it will add to the repair cost, if you kill it prematurely, when you get around to doing it.) it will not save you any money on gas with the fuse in. or you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive it forever. it will still not save you any gas money this way either. if you remove the rear axles and re-install the outer axle stubs in the hubs, and remove the rear diff and rear section of drive shaft, you MAY see some gas savings. but probably see just as much savings by removing the roof rack.

you're welcome but you should really thank zues marine, he wrote it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

do the the solar chargers work? are they worth it?

it sounds a little bit like a torque bind symptom to me. try stopping in N before you go to P. if the trans unloads in N you have torque bind. EDIT: duh, you said it does this. do a search, lots of info on it here. to confirm it, test drive in slow, idling, tight circles to see if it drives smoothly or is jumpy, and binding, and needs some gas to go. then check to see if all 4 tires are the same brand, size, tread design, air pressure, and have the same amount of tread left. mis-matched tires can cause / contribute to TB.

yes

there are some engine malfunctions that will throw an AT Temp light code. i think TPS and IAC are ones that can / will throw an AT light, MAF too. the flashing AT light means there is a code in the TCU, flashing at start up means there was a fault during the last drive cycle. if it does not flash on the next start up then the fault did not repeat itself.

compare the connectors, if they match up then it's easy, maybe. if not you will have wire sorting to do. but the wires are just the link to the ecu, that is what runs the engine. and if the engine does not have the required egr valve, you will get a CEL. now if you are running an independent ecu, well.......

you can test it yourself, let the air out of one of your front tires, down to 20 lbs. or so and drive around town. see if you feel a difference.

new new + old

the difference in compression may mean the timing has jumped. this may also explain the sluggishness. the t-belt was due at 180k miles. you can pull the cam timing covers to check the timing marks. the engine is non-interference, so no damage done.

what makes you think it's gear oil? how about axle / cv boot grease on the exhaust? also check the the axle seals on the trans.

one of the bolt holes is for the cover bolt. is there a second hole? i don't think anything else goes there. what engine, year?

i have 24k on a complete set from them including the cam and crank seals with no worries. my first WP gasket from them was oem, but my last one was cardboard.

why not, will it break??

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html one of the things i learned while using it, putting on my lug nits at the end. it will start to hammer almost before it has applied any real amount of torque. i applied a quick burst to run up the lug nuts. i was concerned i might over tighten them. so i then used my torque wrench to tighten them. in all cases the nuts needed almost a 1/4 turn to reach 90 ft lbs. this was reassuring since over torquing lug nuts has bent hubs for some cars in the past.

i needed to replace both front axles on my 97obw, bad boots. i have a donor car with "new" looking axles so my plan was to use them. last weekend when i tried to remove an axle nut i did not have my breaker bar so i used my torque wrench. i set it for the max, 250 ft pounds and when it clicked, i quit. i read a recent thread about using a 3/4" breaker bar and an impact reducer so i went to harbor freight to buy . they had a 3/4" ratchet, but not a breaker bar. so instead o bought an electric impact gun/drill/wrench 50$ and boy is it great. it made short order of all 4 axle nuts and on 2 of the 4 axles it was great to have for the axle puller. it took a while for the hammering to get the axle to move but it finally did. i was surprised that it had more trouble with one of the strut bolts than any of the axle bolts. i also picked up a set of impact deep sockets for 20$, 14mm - 32mm. it was a successful day. new tools, woo hoo!

with the sway bar attached to the control arm the control arm is spring loaded. this makes it a littlke difficult to bang it loose. or even pry it loose. but if you are replacing the ball joint then a pickle fork it the way to go. the castle nut on the ball joint and the castle nut on the tie rod end are both 19mm, the same socket and threads as the lug nuts. so the last time i was swapping a knuckle and no pickle fork, i unbolted the sway bar link, removed the castle nut on the ball joint and threaded on a lug nut, an old one to protect the threads leaving it a little loose. then i place a jack under the ball joint/ lug nut combo and jacked it up and bang on the control arm. lower the jack and the control arm falls away. i have also used lug nut to protect the threads on the tie rod end bolt . usually i can just bang on the side of the knuckle and the rod end bolt will pop out. but sometime i have to bang down on the bolt and the lug nut does a better job of protecting the threads than the castle nuts do. during reassembly i usually do the lower half first, including the sway bar end link and the strut to knuckle bolts last.

i'll bet your cruise control does not work either. i have the same problem, all 3 items go through the steering column / clock spring to the steering wheel. so that's where i'm going to look for a fix. it may require replacing the clock spring. i've never done it but it sounds like the it's not too hard. you just have to disconnect the battery and wait for the air bag to become dead? i have other things on my plate so you may correct your before i tackle mine. let me know how it turns out. there is a recent thread which i started that has a link to a ''how to'' on a different forum.

there's a fix for the speedo. add a ground wire to the circuit board. i found it on another site and posted it hrer. search "speedofix" or 99speedofix. the temp gage could be a -stat or maybe a bad connection on the cluster. when you have the speedo out clean the contacts.

don't they spin the same direction as the crank? and the starter bump method of loosening the crank pulley bolt would suggest they could loosen over time. but it doesn't really matter if you torque them correctly.

ok, it is a non- interference engine so no damage done. but if they didn't replace everything, belt idlers, water pump, tensioner (although they rarely fail) ect. any one of them could fail . if you are pretty confident the compression on the passenger side is low, i would pull the timing belt covers and look to see if the cam timing marks are in the correct position. if one is off you will have your answer. you will not be able to check the timing mark on the crank sprocket unless you pull the crank pulley and the center timing cover. t-belt kits can be had on ebay for 125$ including the water pump and all idlers, but no tensioner. (search "subaru timing kit" i buy from "theimportexperts" good parts) if this is a temporary car i guess you could open it up and just buy the parts you need locally that are actually broken, but for the price and the trouble involved i would do it all. another idler may let go next week. it is not unusual for a dealer or shop to only replace the things that are bad when doing a timing belt job. but then you end up with your situation. good luck and be sure to do your home work on the timing belt job so you use the correct timing belt marks. NEVER use the arrows. check the links in my signature below.

i assume this is a subaru engine, w/ 219k miles. what year, what size engine, what car?????? this info will help find the solution. with the 2 passenger side cylinders having no ( or at least 60 lbs less than the driver side) compression leads me to believe your timing has jumped. depending on the engine and the year it may be a simple as a timing belt job which you can do in the drive way in an afternoon, probably. but it could be a valve job, depending on your engine and year. so what engine and year??

the first thing to check are your battery connections. they could be dirty, corroded or loose and any of those could cause this problem. the stater pulls a lot of juice and your connections could be good enough to power everything else in the car but not enough to engage the starter. if corroded, a temporary fix may be to pour a coke over the battery posts. and tap on the connections a little. this may get your car started. then, obviously, drive it immediately to a shop without turning it off. unless you are going to try and fix it yourself in which case get out the wrenches. the other common cause is bad solenoid contacts on the starter. a jump start with jumper cables may add enough juice to over come this, but if it is the contacts they should be replaced. is your battery 5 years old??

markus has not logged on since august '04.