johnceggleston

i'm beginning to think it is the top rad hose, not the overflow hose. i have never seen an overflow hose with a clamp. but you are right, replace the hose.

not mine. i snagged that pic several years ago from i don't remember where. but i assume it came from here. and i saved it so i would have one when needed.

have the CEL code read at the parts store. be sure to get the Pxxxx number, not just he description the guy uses like, ''it's your catalytic converter''. it will probably point you in the correct direction. the only thing the owners manual says : ''fluid may be too hot, if the light comes on while driving, avoid steep hills.'' ''no need to stop driving.'' if the AT Temp light is not flashing at start up, you probably do not have an electrical fault in the trans. were you driving it hard when the light came on, or just before?

if the hose running from the rad cap to the over flow bottle has a hole in it the rad CAN NOT suck the coolant back into the system. the coolant is forced into the over flow as designed, but if there is a hole, it cannot create the vacuum needed to suck it back into the rad., if this is what is happening i would fix that first. the bubbles are a bad sign, but typically the 02 is not know for internal head gasket leaks. they usually leak coolant and /or oil to the outside of the engine. (the 96 - 99 ej25 engine would leak combustion gasses into the coolant creating bubbles in the coolant.) there is a VERY VERY small possibility that the bubbles are caused by lack of coolant , lack of coolant flow, and possibly an air lock preventing coolant flow. but that is really a small chance given the symptoms. still i would fix the leak , refill the system correctly , including the overflow, and keep an eye on it. it will either operate correctly or not.

+1 what he said.

came on steady? or flashing? does it flash 16 times at start up? how does it drive? do you have an owners manual? typically the light is associated with an electrical fault in the trans. but yours maybe a bad temp sensor, or fluid that is too hot, or ...... check the ATF color, level and smell on the dipstick.

well there is the exhaust as well. and the speed sensor, maybe the trans mount, and the heat shield, ? and you are on your back, on the ground unless you have a lift. but yeah, it is that easy. the clutch discs are the hard part. apparently getting the right parts is a challenge. i have not done those, but most folks talk about ''matching up the parts'' at the dealer. this does not make sense to me , but that is what i hear.

the ej25 block in 99 is the phase 2 block that was used 00 - 04 from subarugenuineparts.com the block is the same 99 - 08

pic of the inside of the tail shaft section. the duty c has the green wire. it comes as a ''valve body assembly''. make sure you get 2 identical gaskets for the valve body. the basket / drum type thing contains the clutch discs and spacers. if you have binding, you probably do not need to replace them, but use your best judgement.

ABS, anti-lock brake system, that is the wheel sensor. don't muck it up.

i'm not sure, but i don't worry about them. if the gasket is there and usable , i use it. if missing or messed up, i don't use it. some folks run without covers at all. don't sweat it.

the 99 block is a phase 2 block, but as mentioned, the pistons and possibly the rods are phase 1. the crank has to match the block since they moved the thrust bearing around then. i doubt they would change the thrust bearing position and the block and the crank one year just to come back a year later and change the crank again.

if this is not true, just try pumping them up until they firm up. the install process of new pads forces the fluid back up into the master cylinder. until you have pumped the lines full again and re-seated the pads, the pedal will have a lot of travel. but a few pumps should correct it. if you did remove the brake line then ... yes, bleed the brakes.

$75.00

huh? a little more info please. car, model year, engine, trans, miles? what do you mean by ballancers? what do you mean by ''look at''? i already know what you mean by front.

the marks on the cams MUST always match up with the marks on the engine. (crank too, but you can't see that mark unless you remove the pulley or took the time to mark the pulley.) the belt lines up once every 739 rotations. but as asked, did you use the right timing marks? not the arrows, never the arrows.

HLAs in the 90 - 96 ej18.

+1 for theimportexperts on ebay. the kit will run about $125 - $135, shipped. i get my seals from the dealer, about $35 - $45, including the water pump gasket. 2- cam seals, 2 - cam cap o-rings 1 - crank seal 1 - oil pump o-ring 1 - water pump gasket then from the parts store buy a tube of RTV Ultra Gray sealant for the oil pump. i would not change the T-stat. the car is not over heating and it is working properly so why? they last a reallly long time. but if you do, buy it and the gasket from the dealer. the only t-stat issues i have heard about have been on cars with after market t-stats. never with a subaru t-stat.

there is an ID tag under the hood on the driver side attached to the the strut towr. you can read it while standing at the driver sdie front tire. it will have the engine ID code on . as well as other stuff. i had a 97 outback limited. did they make GT limited cars? i think the LSi was done by 98. how about a 98 SUS? does it have two tone paint? how about round fog lights? or maybe the anniversary limited? edition. those were legacys cars built in 1999, including late 98MY and most of the 99MY. they came with a sunroof, power antenna, alloy wheels, a better sound system, all the good stuff. find a picture on line of a car exactly like yours and post a link.

glad it work.

disconnect the green ''test'' connectors under the dash. they are for test purposes only. the will cause every relay on the car to activate, rad fans to run all the time, and throw a boat load of codes. disconnect the green test connectors under the dash.

vac leak.

where did you get the part? it may be as simple as a bad item or a low quality manufacturer.

no start? does the engine cranks over but does not start? or does the starter fail to turn the engine? at the risk of being too simple, the most common cause of a no start is bad battery connections. but if the starter is turning the engine over, that is probably not the issue. usually it is the large hose running from the IAC on the rear of the intake to the plastic plenum. it connects to the plenum on the very bottom and is hard to see and easy to miss. it can pop off almost any time you remove the plenum or open the air filter box.

when driving 30 mph, what does the tachometer read? you could be in ''limp'' mode. third gear only. this is designed to allow you to drive home if the ''electronics'' fail. but if you were in limp mode i would think you could drive much faster. you need to read the code. that will point you in the right direction.