johnceggleston

gloyale, i understand, i know you know subarus. but rather than joining this thread and saying the title is wrong, why not start a new one and ask if anyone has a procedure for replacing the failing seals in the trans. no offense intended, but you jumped into this thread about a temp and recurring fix for a trans issue and announced we were wrong. imho, that is the incorrect approach. if the info in this thread is not what you are looking for, then start another one . no one says you have to use this fix for your customer's car. i would be delighted to learn that the PERMANENT fix is only 15? hours and a 3$ part. but for all the folks who buy a 99 - 00 auto trans subaru that develops a ''slow to engage'' problem, the trans-X is a very good alternative to an expensive fix. .

if you have the skills and they have the money, by all means fix it. i have neither, so for me, this is a no brainer. from a purely economic perspective, $30 worth of ATF & trans-X once a year vs. a $1200 - $2500 rebuild .....

a more correct way to say it is that the speedo drive gears, match the stock tire size. if you install an outback trans in a lego L and put outback tires on it, I THINK the speedo will read true. but we are splitting hairs here. and it only impacts the OP's situation if the stock tires are a different size than the new trans' stock tire size. and if the difference is small enough, it mat not matter at all. do the swap and test drive the car with a GPS. if the speedo is off , be careful when you drive. the only reason to use another trans is if you can find one cheaper. www.car-part.com

as long as the years you quoted are correct, it is a direct swap. no issues.

i would also double check the timing. a tooth off could cause issues. and there could be bent valves, but there have also been times when a busted timing idler or belt did not cause bent valves. triple check the timing.

actually the speed sensors are all the same and they are on the axle side of the diff carrier. they measure wheel rotations regardless of the final drive ratio. different size tires will affect the accuracy of the speedometer. a trans with speedo gears for one tire will not be accurate for another size tire. but the size difference is so small, i doubt they have different speedo gears. but since one is an 06 which i have no experience with they could in fact have different speedo rears. a great way to test your speedo is with a GPS. on a long trip, select your destination, note the miles, and reset your trip counter. then drive 100 miles. does the trip counter match the GPS? if there is a 1.5 mile difference, then your speedo has a 1.5% error, etc. this error should be consistent with the speed displayed as well as the distance traveled. you can run the test on shorter distances but 100 miles works well.

the tire size difference is less than 2%, not much. that difference is so small i doubt the speedo gears are different. and you can change the tire size on your car if you want, when you need tires. the difference in gearing probably has more to do with EPA mpg rather than model / weight / performance. well, the gearing on 1st and 2nd may be performance driven, is the baja lighter ?? are other 06 5 speeds geared the same as your baja?

link below on ''how to'' for the alarm system. your system should be the same as others of that year. there is a way to ''deactivate'' the system (valet mode) so you can open the door with a key. this basically turns the alarm off, so you can open it with a key and no alarm sound. as far as i know that is the only way to turn it off , short of unplugging it. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html do the door locks work properly? if no, this some times signals an alarm problem. but if you have an after market remote, i would search for info on that company and operating instruction. or the install instructions .

i would probably look for another trans. no reason to buy one that needs work when there are others out there that don't.

ps: you might cal the import experts and mention you want a 105k belt. i do not know if the one in the kit they sell is a 105k belt. they have a real store some where and they will put together the kit you need. in VA @ advance auto parts, the 60k belt costs more and is in stock. the 105k belt cost less but you have to order it.

in that case you have a 105k mile or 105 month interval, and it is due NOW, unless it was done recently. and even if it was done recently, did they do just the belt, or the belt and the water pump or did they also do the idlers???? so for less than $200 and a few hours of your time, you can do it all and know that the timing belt ''stuff'' is not going to cause the car to break down at 11pm at night with you niece alone on some unknown road somewhere with iffy cell phone coverage. you might also consider new plugs, NKG. (~$2 each) and new plug wires, subaru (~$45 @ online dealer) or a very HIGH quality alternative. do not install cheap wires. new oil and filter, new air filter.

the timing belt interval on the 97 2.2L engine is 60k miles or 60 months, so it is due NOW. and your engine will likely have bent valves if the belt or another component fails. but the belts usually don't fail, the idler pulleys do. so it is best to replace the belt, all idlers, and the water pump to be sure. the 97 has a 2 piece tensioner and the piston usually does not need replacing unless it is leaking or not working properly. also good to replace the cam & crank seals, cam cap o-rings, oil pump o-ring and re-seal the oil pump. check out the ''theimportexperts'' on ebay. they have quality parts for a good price. and usually a kit including the water pump for about $130. the seals i get from the dealer, about $35 online or wholesale, ~$42 retail. pretty easy job, just make sure you KNOW which the correct timing marks are. DO NOT assume you will be able to figure it out by looking at the engine. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

assuming this analogy is true, why not increase the size of the piping for the long trip to the rear. then reduce it back down when it attaches to the radiator. a larger wire / pipe will offer less resistance. and for that matter there is no reason why you would need to use the subaru radiator. you could install one from a 1960 chevy pick up if it would fit or you could find one. i'll bet the pipes on it are larger.

if you maintain it, until you wreck it.

no. you have to split the block.

unless the air temp is close to boiling, both the ATF cooler and the rad are going to help cool. plus the trans is designed to operate with the ATF at or near the coolant temp. if you could hang the ATF cooler down low like a fmic, that might help. or use a sawzall to add a hood scope and mount it above the engine.

yes, the bottom AC bracket. the bolt hole on the top in the pic goes near the oil dip stick and bolts down into the block. the other 2 bolt holes, go horizontal toward the compressor and the larger AC bracket.

do you have the 99 ej22 that was original to the car? if yes, and the heads are still good, swap the 99 heads and intake on to the 96 ej22 short block. (maybe the crank sprocket as well.) this will put you back on the road, with no problems. or bolt the 99 ej22 heads on to the ej25 short block. this will also put you back on the road, with no problems.. and finally, you can bolt the 99 throttle body, and swap the 99 intake harness on to the 96 ej22 long block . this should get you back on the road but you will always have a CEL, for something, i forget what exactly. so if you live in an area where a CEL will fail an inspection, this is not a good solution. 99 legacy L is a phase 2 engine. the engines that are a plug and play swap are: any ej22 99 - 00 any ej25 00 - 02 , (you MAY have to swap the 99 ej22 intake manifold and the cam & crank sprockets. they will bolt right on.) 03 - 04 will swap with some work, but you WILL have to swap the cam and crank sprockets and the intake manifold. 99 was a transition year, it may not be exactly like a 00. i'm not sure. but it is close enough so that you can make it work with the correct parts from the original engine. good luck.

it is not often i correct knowledgeable folks here, but, i think you may be mistaken or confused. links below for the impreza ej18 and the impreza je22 crankshafts, item # 2 in each diagram. both use the 12200AA042 crank. ej18 - http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_43/engine/piston_and_crankshaft/ ej22 - http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_56/engine/piston_and_crankshaft/illustration_1/ so while i'm not saying you are wrong, i am saying there is evidence that the cranks are the same. ej18 and ej 22 use the same cranks and rods. ej18 and ej20 use the same pistons. crank must be different.

on my first engine swap ej22 into a 97GT i bought a ''cheap'' gasket set off of ebay. i did not need the head gaskets but the price was great for all the other gaskets. however, i just had to replace the valve cover gaskets after 35k miles. OEM head gaskets online are less than $75 a pair, add to the order the front cam seals, cam cap o-rings, crank seal, oil pump o-ring and the shipping price is minimized. i get my head gaskets from a dealer online along with the seals mentioned and the t-stat, if needed (but i have never seen a bad factory t-stat.) i use felpro or beck arnley for the intake, exhaust, VC gaskets. i try to order from rockauto.com in advance, but i'll buy local if i have to. i just replace the VC gasket on both of the ej22 swaps i have done. i don't think either was name brand. and the second one only had 20k on it when replaced. DO NOT mess with the rear main seal, they usually last the life of the car and if you do it wrong it will leak badly. ebay is not a bad place to buy, but cheap is not always the best way to buy. check out the ''importexperts'' on ebay. they have good timing belt parts for good prices. i'm not sure they carry head gaskets though.

rooster, you should send Trans-X an email or letter and a link to this thread. maybe you can get some free products or services for all your praises. or a sticker , or a t-shirt, or a hat....... may be not, but it is worth a try.

i understand completely. but the only difference between the ej18 and the ej22 long block is the diameter of the pistons. if you use the ej18 intake, and the ej22 long block you will have ALL of the things you listed, ''spfi, obd1, and sohc'', but with more power. maybe 25hp more, or 22% more. but i certainly understand if you are locked into the ej18 financially. good luck.

?????? the ej18 and the ej22 pistons are different diameter so you can not use them and gain the benefit of those improvements. but if you swap in an ej22 engine you will see more than a 10% increase in power. the ej22 will bolt right in and run just fine in an ej18 car. this is way easier than opening your block and replacing the pistons. any ej22 engine will work, just bolt on your intake manifold. if you have EGR, which you probably do, just ''fix'' it according to the thread on this forum. easy fix. i guess everyone who viewed had the same questions you did and no answers. welcome to the forum , i think!?!?!?

i don't know the exact cause, but the solution is a replacement used trans. these trans are very hardy if they are serviced regularly. check your fluid condition & level . is it red? smell burnt? full to the hot ''F'' line? but i would look for a used trans. you can use any auto trans from an outback 96 - 98, or from a 98 forester, or from a 96 - 98 GT. you can not use an auto trans from a legacy L, or brighton or a low end impreza. look for parts on cragslist or http://www.car-part.com . you will have to search each model and year separately. put in your zip and sort by distance.

with no first hand experience, the initial install instructions include a final step of backing off one side and tightening the other side something in the neighbor hood of 1.5 turns. this move the unit toward one side creating an offset. i would test drive it before you head out on your trip. if it makes noise adjust it. and i would take your tools with you so you can adjust it in route if needed. good luck.