johnceggleston

the number of potential ej22s to swap into ej25 cars just doubled. thanks for the pics and the write up. well done. sad that it ihas taken this long to find a solution. but exciting that there is a solution.

and i like the maintenance free aspect of the HLAs. i know why they changed, but i don't like it.......

is the problem speed related or time / distance related? if speed related i would suspect the drive shaft or mount or other similar part. something is loose and speed agravates it. if it is distance related, after 10 minutes of city driving or 5 -7 miles it acts up, then i would suspect mis-matched ratios. especially for a manual trans with viscous coupling, runs fine until it heats up. spped will not make a difference except that it gets heated a little faster. i assume it is a manual trans.

an inch of water is a lot for ''driving in the rain''. i have had leak issues with the sunroof in my 97GT but that was always clogged drains. and it was usually worse when parked than when driving. especially considering that the hill i park on funneled the water toward the clogged drain. a roof rack leak would have to be '' roof rack missing with open bolt holes in a hurricane'' to collect that much water. or maybe a week of rain. i would check the windshield seal on the bottom, driver side. incase it is possible that the water moved from front to rear. but depending on the time frame between picking up the car and the wet floor i would suspect a window was left open by someone other than you. the floor was already wet when you got in and eventually your feet got wet. an inch or water is a ton. any amount that is a puddle above the carpet is a ton. somebody left a window open. imho.

i think there are some different injectors out there, some are gray some are ??? but regardless, the ECU is going to control the fuel air mixture so it gets what it wants. so unless you use a different computer, non-suabru, it will not matter.

somewhere there is a post by some one who routed the EGR pipe to the intake plenum and eliminated the CEL. i sounds squirrelly to me and i don't quote it very often, but he says it worked. i don't remember the year of the car, but apparently it worked. i would love to have a second success to put with it .

for the right price i'd be interested. shipping to 24014. thanks, john

i think the car would not have driven at all when she put the fuse in. so probably not.

thanks for the thanks. but even a blind squirrel finds an acorn every now and then, happy motoring.

swap the plug wire first. that's easy. and check the coil to wire connection for burn marks.

95 - 99 all o2 sensors have 3 wires. some have a 4 wire connector, but onlt 3 wires are attached.

front diffs can go bad, but they are not a common fail point in subarus. the most common ''mis-diagnosed'' front diff issue is ''torque bind''. this is a situation where the front and rear wheels are ''locked'' together like a 4X4 truck with ''locked hubs''. it works great when driving in sand or mud, but not so good on dry pavement. if you put the FWD fuse in under the hood it should disconnect the rear wheels from the drive train, making the car ''front wheel drive'' only. if this eliminates the problem, the front diff is ok. open the hood. stand in front of the car and look at the engine. in the right front corner, near the driver side head light is the battery. directly behind that are 2 things. a large white bottle with a yellow top, this is the windshiel washer fluid. and a smaller black box, closer to the fender. this isthe fuse box. release the catch on the front end of the fuse box and open it. look at the inside of the lid. one of the fuse locations on the lid will be marked FWD and the fuse space will be empty. put any spare fuse in the slot and then drive the car. if you buy fuses from an auto parts store, ~$5 maybe, the guy may help you install the fuse. just smile and ask.

nope. there are no trans control items on the fire wall. 95 - 98, there is an igniter. iirc, a few wires on one end and more on the other. but usually they fail in halves, the same way they feed the coil. so this may not be your issue. try starting fluid. if it fires, it is a fuel issue. check the timing .

ignitor.? follow the wiring from the coil back to the fire wall. or try starting fluid.

this is the only way you can be sure. do it when you get it and then drive.

good catch. i don't know where i got rear from.

good to know. i swapped a 95 ej18 , and i don't think it was obd2. but maybe.

if they replace the cats, they will likely replace the sensors too. and it is likely that this will correct the problem. but if you just replace the sensors now, and then wait and see if that corrects the problem, what have you lost? you can always go back and repalce the cats. and i doubt very seriously that they will give you a price break on doing both jobs at once. they rarely do. ther is a book they go by that quotes the time for each job. regarding the question, do the o2 sensors need replacing? how many miles? they do not last forever. so at some point they need to be swapped. 150k is a long time for an o2 sensor. exhaust leaks can also cause a p0420 code. are the exhaust manifold gaskets in good condition? was the exhaust disassembled during the HG job? did the dealer do the HG job?

the rear sensor heater circuit problem could be a wiring issue. imho, most circuit problems are connector / wiring issues, especially after major work. check the connector at the unit and on the rear of the engine on the passenger side at the trans bell housing. the larges one feeds the trans and all stuff to the rear.

no, the ECU has to match the wiring harness in the car. some ECUs will swap in some years but don't count on it clearing up a CEL issue. it has been tried and it does not work. besides if you select an engine from the above list you will not have any CEL issues. again, this has been tried and does not work. you NEED an ej22 engine with EGR. this is only available 95 - 98, usually from auto trans cars, but maybe not always. double check before you buy. you could of course use an ej22 without EGR and then swap in an intake from an ej22 with EGR and then drill and tap the driver side head . but it is a lot easier to use an ej22 95 - 98 with EGR. try http://www.car-part.com

ej22s to swap into 96 - 99 outbacks & GTs or 98 foresters. in order of preference: 1/ 95 ej22 with EGR, usually from an auto trans car. (maybe not from an impreza, you need obd2.) direct swap, use the ej25 flex plate / fly wheel. do not disconnect the AC lines from the compressor, just unbolt the bracket and flop it out of the way. after install, use the AC bracket from the ej25. this is the easiest and cleanest swap. 2/ 96 - 98 ej22 with EGR, usually from an auto trans car. you will need the exhaust manifold from the donor car since these years have single port exhaust instead of dual port. use the ej25 flex plate / fly wheel. do not disconnect the AC lines from the compressor, just unbolt the bracket and flop it out of the way. after install, use the AC bracket from the ej25. this is the second easiest swap. FYI: the 95 - 96 ej22s are non-interfernce. the 97 - 98 ej22s are interference. if you have the donor ej22 car, also swap in the power steering lines. the ej25 lines will work just fine, but the support brackets do not meet the heads. using the ej22 lines will make it look factory.

well the dual port is definitely non-interference. and it has HLAs, no valve adjustment. but fitment depends on the car, ECU and wire harness.

what he said. lots of things can cause a p0420 code. cats are low on the list. but some shops and most dealers like selling new cats for $700? to folks who do not know better. read thru this: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diag.html

it depends on how you are going to use it. dual port heads were 90 - 95. single port heads were 96 - 98. some have EGR and some do not. what are you trying to do?

do not buy the kit that has the wrong tensioner in . buy the kit that has the one you need. but the 2 piece older style do not fail often.