johnceggleston

some basics, auto or manual trans? how many miles? engine, 2.5L (legacy L, brighton) or 3.0L (outback VDC or LL Bean) ? if auto, yes, put the fuse in and see if the trouble goes away. it should be in the corner of the fuse box under the hood, which is located in between the battery and the windshield washer bottle. this is pretty easy to do. any fuse will work. there is usually a spare in the fuse box. the lid has a description of each fuse.

once they read the code you will have a much better idea of what is going on.

been there, done that.

if time is an issue, order it on line from advance auto and pick it up in the store the same day. they always have discount working for on line orders. but if you google, advance auto discount coupons, you may find a 33% of coupon. i have done ths lots of times and i have even use some coupons twice. ignore the dates. some of the older ones still work. juust plug in the code and if the price changes you are good to go. it may not be the cheapest, but it may be the soonest. i got something from rockauto this spring and shipping was faster than what was quoted. good luck.

first, all 4 tires need to be the same size in circumference, with in 1/4 inch. so they need to be the same brand, size, tread, air pressure, and wear. if they are not you will have binding. second, change the ATF. dirty trans fluid can cause gummed up clutch discs in the transfer clutch and the valve body for the duty c . both of these control the power transfer to the rear wheels. do a drain and fill of the trans fluid, just like changing the oil in the engine. do this 3 times with driving in between each. the duty c is working.

on the negative cynical side i thought you were trolling for email addresses. on the positive side, i thought you were interested in how we repair our cars. and maybe, how some one might market /sell repair tools to us. but, you are a student / learning. lots of us have been there. and all in all they were good questions. better than what i would have come up with. if any good comes from this, let us know. best of luck.

done good luck.

yes, just plug the hole and go. i forgot you were using it else where.

if you use the 03 intake with the EGR on the 01 block and heads you will have to replace that equipment once the 03 is ready to install next year. did you find the write up on the drill and tap of the head?

i think the 95 lego is obd2, but the 95 impreza is obd1.

what were the code numbers.? if the part numbers were the say on both parts, it should be ok. were the codes you got the same ones you had on the old computer? are you sure the old one was the original one? why did you think you needed a new computer? some codes require 2 drive cycles before it will throw a code, i think.

if the system is low on refrigerant the compressor will not kick in. check / recharge the system.

you also need the TCU to control the transfer clutch. i don't know if adding a AWD TCU will do it. when swapping back the other way in the later 90s, you always end up with a TCU trouble code. the TCU is look for the rear speed sensor. and i have heard it suggested that the harness tells the TCU / ECU if the car is FWD or AWD. not sure. but regardless, in addition to the hardware you need the brain to control it. you may also need the gas tank, not sure if they are different. much easier to put your engine into the AWD car.

note: when the carnk is in the crrect timing position the crasnk keyway is pointing down, in the 6 oclock position. but you will have to remove the crank pulley to see it. not the sprocket, the pulley . you may be able to ''feel'' the key way with your finger when the pulley is still on, and the bolt out. when the crank is in the correct position, all pistons are at mid stroke, not the top and not the bottom.

time to check the fusable links in the fuse box under the hood.

horn work? battery connected? 2 large connectors on the rear of the engine passenger side? double check. now, put it in PARK, and try again. did you have any SPARKS at any time during the process?

go to http://opposedforces.com/parts and look for the TCU in the POST cars of similar years. i forget what they call it. once you get to the list of categories, click the browse button. it will be a little difficult to find, they put in an obscure place. but i do remember it is at the bottom of one of the categories. at least the ECU it. EDIT: don't bother, it does not show any info about the location. it is however called ''AT Control Unit'' and is located at the bottom of the auto trans category. not yours, but looks similar to this.

hi jack, does this mean the trans defaults to open when the dutc c fails, instead of binding? that seems like a good thing. also good to know where the cut off line is for a compatible 99/00 - 03 auto trans. another good way to tell the difference between phase 1 and phase 2 is the screw on filter on the driver side of the trans. kind of near the LF axle.

is the driver side head leaking from the rear seal. i have never heard of this.? if it is not leaking i would leave it alone. if you cannot not find it in link below you will have to ask the dealer parts guy. and the dealer, online or local, is probably going to be the only source for the part anyway. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_1/

if you have the donor car charcoal canister you can add it up front. i have done this. or you can jut build a U shaped hose and connect the 2 front metal lines to each other. i have done this. or maybe just plug them. not sure. not sure about this. the pluming to the rear canister is in place and will work perfectly with the 3 exisrting hoses that connect to the intake near the fuel filter .

NOT the arrows, NEVER the arrows.

crank sensor triggers the spark. cam sensor triggers the fuel. check the crank sensor, coil connectors and the the wire feeding the coil.

where did you get the ALT?

my guess is that you are not in 1st, but in ''limp'' mode and 3rd gear only. and some how the fuse is ''killing'' TCU. it should not do this but for some reason it is. test drive the car with the fuse in at 40 mph and see what the rpm / tach reads. if you are in 1st it should be screaming. if you are in 3rd, not so much. compare your results to driving with the fuse out and the selector in 3. but as long as the car / trans works fine with the fuse out, leave it out.

the axles 00 - 04 will work on the 95 - 99 cars, at least until they changed from axle stubs that stick out. i'm not sure when that change took place. most folks just knock off the tone ring for the abs. i have done it with no issues.