johnceggleston

your sppedo being off could ba as simple as some one put the needle on wrong. that is the only way i know to adjust one. it is a pain because you have to do it while driving the car. as far as the tire size changing it. a different size tire will change your speedo reading, but it should change it a percentage, like 2.8% for 185/70/14 to 205/55/16. this means your speedo will be changed about 1mph at 35, but 2 mph at 70. the tire sizes you are dealing with will not change your speed 4 mph. have your speedo calibrated, if it is an auto trans put the fwd fuse in under the hood unless it is a 4 wheel dynomometer. 5 speed trans MUST be done on a 4 wheel dyno.

i don't remmeber the whole story, but the 2.2L ecu will give you a CEL. the ecu needs to match the wiring harness in the car. tons of ej22 swaps have been done with NO ecu swap. it probably will not cause the no power problems you have, but it will throw phantom codes causing you to look in the WRONG in the wrong place for solutions. put the ej25 ECU back in the car. it is easy, takes 15 minutes. then pull the timing covers off of the cam sprockets and double check the timing. this sounds like the timing is off. i know this has been a long and involved problem, but it sounds like a timing problem. or maybe s vacuum hose problem. fix the ecu / CEL problem by installing the original ECU and then see what issues you have. i am not lying to you. this is true. replace the ECU with the one that came in the car.

that's not an issue, they are different diameters. if you used the wrong one you could not bolt it to the TC.

my 95 has been this way for 40k miles. no worries.

it is probably the drive shaft.

while you are at the yard looking for a head, consider a 90 - 94 block. they are cheap and if you find a good one you can throw away your ''crudded up block.'' swap a 95 driver side head on to a 90 - 94 block and you have a 95 engine. which head do you need, driver / egr or passenger side? i would seriously consider this. you keep finding faults with this engine, it may be time to punt, if you can find the right part for the right price. Q: 90 - 94, are the heads the same, can you strip down a driver side head and spin it around and mount it on the passenger side??

don't add anything except AFT. no other additives. there is no indication that they will help torque bind. especially an additive that makes it grab better. the bind could be caused by ''gummed'' up clutch plates. you want to ''clean'' them. change the fluid. do a drain and fill. then drive it around. maybe drive it backwards in tight circles. (someone suggested this a long time ago, it is not often repeated.) if there was a fluid designed to ''clean'' your trans i might try that, but trans fluid does a pretty good job of that in the first place.

or go to a parts store and have the codes read. tell the guy your CEL bulb is burned out. they will give you any codes. ask for the numbers, not just the meanings. and have a pen and paper handy to write it down.

and both were wrong about the rear diff. what is the chance that they were also wrong about the drive shaft? on a side note, i just bought a '00 lego wagon w/ 80k miles. it had loud road noise which i figured was due to cheap tires. so i swapped in some other wheels and tires i had in the shed. now the noise is less but not gone. i now think it is a wheel bearing. it sounds slightly different when swerving to the right than when swerving to the left. i think the left rear wheel bearing is making noise. i guess the point is , i'm not perfect in diagnosing noise when they it's in my car much less over the internet. but it certainly wasn't the rear diff. if you had taken a poll here before replacing it i doubt very many, if any, would have suggested replacing the rear diff. they just don't fail very often. if it is not a wheel bearing, it has to be the drive shaft. i would jack up each wheel and rotate it by hand while holding a finger on the strut spring. or better yet, buy a mechanic's ''stethoscope'' (harbor freight <$5.), and rotate the wheel by hand with the probe on the knuckle housing. if all four sound / feel the same, it has to be the drive shaft.

probably the drive shaft, what else could it be? maybe a wheel bearing but that should make noise all the time. and a really long shot, that i have never heard of going bad, would be the bearing on the trans output shaft to the rear wheels. but again, i have never heard of one going bad. it has to be the drive shaft. how was it ''checked out''? who did it?

every thing in this thread EXCEPT the stuff about the torque converter. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1037806#post1037806 the tensioner isn't requied to be changed, but with an interference engine it is smart to do ALL the timing components, belt, all idlers, tensioner and water pump, before you install the engine. also re-seal the oil pump on the front and the oil sep plate on the back. that way once installed you are good for 100k miles. and since you have no idea when the timing belt on the new engine is due, do it now. but you can always install the engine just like you bought it and take your chances. but for the added cost of the ''subaru timing kit'' from ''theimportexperts'' on ebay you get a reliable engine and it's not that much more.

nope. the code reader will not read TCU codes. it will read engine / power train codes that MAY cause a trans code. i would think the select monitor would read the trans codes but i've never even seen one so i don't know. the 6 pin connector for reading trans codes (and abs and srs codes) does not have all of the slots filled with pins, some are empty. but the ground wires are, do come from the factory, taped to the harness. not a big deal to find them. but any good ground should work. i'm not familiar wit lucas trans whatever. but since the problem started after it was added, i would do a drain and fill with out the lucas. it may have contributed to the problem, but who knows. what were the trans symptoms before adding the lucas? what are the trans symptom now, besides the flashing light? any binding in tight turns? if you install the fuse in the holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall, does the flashing light go away? try it.

the vac lines going to the strut tower, i can't remember off hand some one else will know. the lines going to the charcoal canister are part of the evap system which collects fuel vapor and then releases it into the intake instead of to the outside air. but neither of these are a big deal. i knew next to nothing about this stuff when i started my first swap and i had no problems. i had never pulled an engine but had read several threads about it here. and i think your canister is in the front and that is the same as the 95. so no worries. FYI, do not dis-connect the AC cooling lines from the compressor. just unbolt the bracket from the block and flop it out of the way during removal and install. this save the environment and the re-charging cost. if the car is going to sit for a day in between R&R, i flop it back into place to reduce the stress on the lines. +2 on using the power steering lines from the 95. the the ej25 lines work fine but they do not line up with the support bracket on the 95 intake. and since you have and use the lines from the 95 it will look like stock. i usually dis-connect the axles from the trans (not the hub unless you are swapping them out). you don't have to but it makes it easier to get to the lower trans bolts. i think one side is easier than the other , but is your call. i use old seat belts for a sling / strap to lift the engine, especially if you are parting out the 95. chains just seem harsh when working around small vac lines and wires. i jack the trans up at the front diff drain plug area. this avoids the possibility of denting the trans pan. EDIT: but if the exhaust is still on the car it will be in the way. if you do jack under the pan, use a board or 2 to spread the load across the entire with of the pan, close to the front. (don't forget to unbolt one end of the ''dog bone'' up top at the fire wall, center. i pick up parts car with out an engine recently with a bent dog bone. the guy who pulled the engine either didn't know or didn't care.) if the torque converter comes out of the trans more than about 1/4 inch i would be sure to re-seat it correctly before re-installing the engine. as a matter of fact i always re-seat it. it's not hard to do, search ''torqueconverter'', look for the older threads. the hard part is KNOWING you need to do it. the last 1/4 inch can cost you the oil pump in the trans. the best tool for removing the flex to TC bolts is a flex head socket and open end wrench . one end is an open end wrench and the other end has a socket attached to it. i remove the sensor on the throttle body for better access, most folks don't. but i mark the position on the top and bottom of the mounting bracket so i can reinstall it the EXACT same way. the bracket is designed to allow it to be rotated and adjusted. mark the top and bottom .

the ej25 has a larger torque converter and it holds slightly more ATF so the diameter of the flex plate is larger to match. iirc, the 95 has 2 small vac hose going to the passenger strut tower. at some point, 97 i think, they used a ''y'' to join the 2 hoses and and ran just one to the strut tower. then a hose ran from one to the other on the tower. it doesn't make much sense sitting here writing it, but if you look you will see what i'm talking about. i used the 97 vac hoses and connected them to the correct places on the 95 engine (the ports on the intake didn't change.) and i didn't have to plug anything. the 97 SHOULD still have the charcoal canister up front, near the ABS unit. so no issues there. but if the canister is in the rear, you will have to plug or connect to each other the vac / evap lines on the front of the engine near / under the top radiator hose.

swap the flex plates, it needs to match the trans, not the engine. reseal the oil sep plate on the rear of the 95 engine. but no electrical issues of any kind as long as you plug everything back in.

i didn't know the ea series had an AT TEMP light. i know the 90 - 94 has a ''power'' light and not an AT Temp. but yes, they changed in 95 and went from flashing ''power'' light to flashing ''AT Temp'' light. i have never seen a ''power'' light on a subaru after 94.

did you have the key on?

the ''hand shake'' is only used for the 90 - 94 cars. starting in 95 you need to ground out a pin, #3 i think but double check, on a 6 pin connector under the dash near the center console. if you ground out the wrong one do not worry, all the pins in the connector a for diagnosis, reading codes. if you ground the wrong one you will just flash the ABS or SRS codes instead of the trans code. do a search, ''readingtranscodes'' or ''transcodes''. look for the older threads.

i just had a thought. it may be more expensive than an ej22 swap or an ej25 replacement, but if the right engine could be found..... buy a SOHC ej25 (00 - 04) and put your DOHC heads and intake on it. the blocks for the most part are all the same. then you eliminate the ''bad bottom end'' potential of a used DOHC and dramatically reduce if not eliminate the chance of the bad head gaskets . the i deal engine would be one with a bad timing belt and bent valves. just a thought.

which temp sensor did you replace? the one wire unit or the 2 wire unit?

it is doubtful you caused any damage, i would just re-seat it. BUTthey can be a little tricky to seat if you don't KNOW how far to go. there is a great write up on it, search ''torqueconverter'' and read some of the oldest threads. how far did it come out?

it's probably the clock spring in the steering column. it transfers the wiring from the stationary column to the rotating steering wheel. it's not a hard job, but you have to decide to go new or used. i went used with no issues so far, a year. there is a good write up on it if you do a search. i would search "clockspring" or "clock spring".

it has the 2.5L. 99 was the last year for the 2.2L in the legacy and 00 was the last year in the impreza. i guess i forgot to mention i need to get a bottle of conditioner and add it .

picked up a 2000 lego L wagon today with 80k miles. got it cheap because it ''needs a trans rebuild, $1800''. i did a drain and fill with 1 qt of Trans-x, ~3 qts of dex 3. i drove it about 2 miles and it improved to a 1/2 second delay. then i drove it 50 miles home and by the time i got there it was working fine. it sits lower than my outback and i was wondering if the outback struts 00 - 04 will bolt on like they do in the 96 - 99 year range? i assume they are taller, like the outback struts of the 90s. i'm planing on swapping in a set of 97 GT wheels and tires right a way. the tires on the car make a lot of noise. stock steel wheels with what appears to be pretty cheap, fusion? tires. they have good tread, but they are loud. probably haven't ever been rotated. and of course the timing belt is 80k miles and 132 months old. it's time to change everything. i'll need a cargo cover and tray / liner eventually. i'm hoping it will clean up enough so my wife will enjoy driving it . i think it is big enough to carry all the gear she needs for her ''in your home clothing sales''. any suggestions would be appreciated.

picked up a 2000 lego L wagon today with 80k miles. got it cheap because it ''needs a trans rebuild, $1800''. the trans would not engage at all or at least not before i started shifting the selector around looking for a gear to grab. eventually it would grab, usually in 3. i did a drain and fill with 1 qt of Trans-x, ~3 qts of dex 3. i drove it about 2 miles and it improved to a 1/2 second delay. then i drove it 50 miles home and by the time i got there it was working fine. the only issue in regards to the trans, it seems to make a slight ''clunk'' when put in gear. i assume this is a result of the previous owner reving it trying to get to engage and then it ''grabbing'' suddenly. anyone else have this? i still need to do more drain and fills to replace the old fluid. it was yellow, not red. but i guess that could just be the brand. so another Trans-x success story.