johnceggleston

wiring. check the connectors on the back of the engine.

the chances of the jumped timing and no bent valves is low. it ca and does happen but usually some bend. so the chance of doing more damage is even lower, in my opinion, based on your situation. so crank it, the damage is either done or not going to be done.

i think it is left to right across the top and then left to right across the bottom. but in the long run it does not matter. they are all diagnostic pins. if the one you ground out does not flash the AT TEMP light, try another one. the other pins are for the air bag codes and the abs codes, etc ..... and yes the 2 single leads are the grounds to use.

just a guess, but if that much water is getting in, it is probably going to be the seal around the hatch / trunk lid. was the car parked on flat ground when this happened? my wife's avalon trunk leaks if she parks it nose down in the rain.

you probably blew a ''fusible link'' in the fuse box under the hood, driver's side. (they are the ones that look like a wire loop sticking up.) a test light will tell you which one or just go to the parts store and get a couple. they are cheap. or maybe a SBF, slow blow fuse, same location.

105k, for all engines starting in 99. the maintenance schedule at cars101.com says the 99 ej22 is a 60k belt unless it is a cali. car. (00 - 09 are all 105k.) but i'm pretty sure all phase 2 engines are 105k. it was / is simpler to list 99 with the rest of the decade rather than making a special listing.

a search found this. not all will apply but good info none the less. tagline, ej22swapinfo, ej25swapinfo, reseallist, swapinfo

run it. it will likely make noise when first run. you will think you have made a terrible mistake. but it will quiet down and be ok. i let mine just idle in the drive way, all afternoon. some other folks suggest taking it for a ''spirited'' drive. that scares me , but in time it will quiet down slowly over time, not suddenly.

disconnect the sway bar end link if you have not already. undo everything else first. on the bottom, i like to remove the cotter pin and castle nut and replace it with a lug nut. (unless you have alloy wheels, don't use one of those lug nuts.) now you can bang on it if needed and not worry about messing up the threads or the castle nut. if the sway bar is disconnected you can bang on the control arm and it should pop off the ball joint stud / spindle. (DO NOT MESS WITH THE PINCH BOLT on the bottom of the knuckle.) if you have to you can put a jack under the ball joint stud, with the lug nut on it, to give you some to bang against. then go back and address the strut bolt. it will be hanging by then. try putting your socket on the head and turning it a few times to loosen it up.

doug, you are too new to send a private message, send me an email, canubaru at gmail dot com john

has any one replaced the brake cables for the hand brake? mine is hanging up. when i first release the hand brake the brake handle has slack / slop in it. after driving a few minutes is has lees or none. i don't really feel it dragging but i'm sure it is. any help would be great. i think this is one of those jobs you really don't want to do , but have to. thanks

it also fits most folks budgets. great engine.

that bracket is mounted on the upper trans to engine bolt. i don't remember about the o2 wiring.

in theory, yes that's what they are there for. but in reality most, if not all, of the sensors in these cars, 90s, can get old , weak, and tired, not perform correctly, and yet not throw a code. it makes for a lot of fun trying to find the cause of a problem. i suspect newer models are better about this but i don't know. one can only hope.

glad you got it running. happy motoring!!

i don't know the length off hand, but you should be able to slide a pencil in and measure the length of the hole and buy a bolt slightly shorter. (this bolt holds a thin metal bracket that supports the wire harness connectors.) the driver side top bolt is longer since it also threads thru the starter bracket. the lower studs are threaded in to the engine bell housing. i would be very surprised if they were missing. but maybe...... they would be very tough to remove. much easier to cut off once the engine is out. and i can't imagine why any one would remove them except out of spite.

so post 3 times how much you wish you could pm, and get it over with.

check your tires, a mis-matched, under-inflated tire, or 2 can cause this. it is hard to believe that the fluid is dirty and causing this since you have changed it twice. tires first.

i think you wrote that unplugging the MAF improves how the engine runs. this would lead me to believe that it is not doing it's job. borrow another maf, or buy used, and swap it in. they don't fail often so it shoulf be pretty cheap. or maybe some one here could ''loan'' you one which you could buy if it helps. good luck.

this does not surprise me. but i have seen the toothed idler go at 150k. i don't know if it was original or a replacement, but i know the ''timing belt'' was done before the idler gave up and bent the valves. i also had a water pump replaced at 98k because water was dripping out of the t-belt cover. it was time for the belt any way.

that's a lot of parts. go back and show the parts manager your receipt for your $1400 worth of parts and tell him he could have made the sale instead of some store across the country. ask for the wholesale price again.

the conditioner is recommended for these engines, before and / or after head gasket replacement. that is one reason subaru calls it a ''conditioner'' and not stop leak or ''radweld''. it sounds more like a ''helper'' than a hole plugger.

absolutely!! the proof is in the pudding, or more correctly, on the road.

it doesn't make much sense to me either. why does a new car / head gasket need stop leak, but that's what they call for. seems to suggest there is something wrong with the design. oh well....... i'm not familiar with ''BE'', what year and model?

the 96 - 99 ej25s tend to have head gasket issues with exhaust leaking into the coolant. the conditioner does nothing for these engines and i don't think subaru ever recommended adding it to them. however, the 00 - 03/04 ej25s had external leaks and subaru would extend the warranty on the head gaskets to 100k miles for some of these years if you added the conditioner. and it is my understanding that subaru requires, strongly suggests, that the conditioner be added to the coolant on ALL engines.