89hatch

Well, after numerous attempts with a scanner, I had no luck. It just kept saying No Fault Codes Detected. I guess I'll follow the directions from a thread I found from 2 years ago detailing how to get into diagnostic mode via the 2 probes tucked up under the dash under the steering column. Has anyone used a scanner and picked up a code for a trans problem? I know there's a code with the Trans Temp light flashing 16 times on every statup. Thanks

Well since I'm not getting any responses, I guess I'm in uncharted territory with this odd problem. I'm gonna try to pull the code from the TCU tonight and then update.

Not that I know of...I would just pull the battery cable off for at least a minute and go from there.

Yep, all other dash lights work. I've seen where other people have said their FWD light is sporadic or comes on when cold then goes out when warmed up, but mine never comes on. No one has seen this before?

Well, I got a used stub from a fellow board member, got it in this past Saturday with the new 82 cent clip from Subaru and all gears engage and seems to drive great. Now that I've been starting it more now, I notice the Trans Temp light doing the flashing 16 times thing. So I guess I have a code to diagnose. I've been reading a lot about the torque bind and duty C solenoid in other posts. I took it out last night and did some tight lock to lock turns and absolutely no binding whatsoever. I came home and tried the FWD fuse and no FWD light comes on in the dash. From the other posts, it seems there's always torque bind when the duty C and/or clutch packs are the problem. The tires are the same size, it has new trans fluid and diff fluid and I pulled fuse 14 to clear the TCM code, started it with no Trans Temp light, drove it around, shut it off and restarted and the Trans Temp light was back. I'll try and get the error code from the TCM. I'm wondering if it's always in FWD or? Any ideas? Thanks

http://www.hornblasters.com If you don't go with them, they still have some funny clips on their site.

I'm a noob with the newer Subes so don't flame me too bad , but where is the FWD fuse exactly? I looked in the main fuse box under the hood on the driver's side, but didn't see it in there.

Great thinking...yeah, definitely psychic, if nothing else. Drained the tranny, changed the oil and put new front brakes on yesterday. Now, to find the stub axle. I guess I'll list in the parts wanted section. Thanks for all the help. I'm still a little concerned why if one axle is out, the three others don't move:confused: I'll update once I get the stub, hopefully that fixes everything.

The oil was a goldish/brown which is how I've always seen it. THe plug had mostly very fine, greyish debris stuck to it as well as right inside the hole. Not bad and nothing solid like part of the clip or anything. Both cv's have NAPA stickers on them, but I don't think anything could've been done to knock the clip off?? Who knows. I went to the parts store for the clip and no luck so I guess it's dealer only. It's still hard to believe that because one cv wasn't hooked up, all 3 other ones wouldn't engage?!?! I hope this fixes it. Any stub axles out there anyone? Oh yeah, I got the car from the junkyard. Someone brought it in saying it wouldn't move and I got it cheap with a clean title before he junked it. So I don't think previous owner was being dishonest. Good idea, though.

Ok, it turns out that the driver side stub axle has pulled out of the tranny. I guess the clip inside the tranny broke, but it's not on the stub or in the diff that I can feel. Of course I got this all figured out at 12:45 this afternoon and the dealer closes at 12 Upon looking at the stub axle, it looks like there's supposed to be a small section of splines on the very end(tranny side), then a groove(for the clip?). But that small section on the end is worn flat. So if there is supposed to be splines there, looks like I need a new clip and a driver side stub axle. Can you get the clip at Autozone, etc or is it a dealer only option? Anyone have a good stub axle out of a 95 4EAT they would like to sell? I hate to see what a dealer will charge for one:rolleyes: Thanks for all the help.

Yep, rear driveshaft is connected and no wheels are spinning in any gear except neutral of course. I can hear the trans spinning, but it's not getting out to the wheels.

Hmm, interesting. I'll be investigating this weekend and I'll let you guys know. Thanks for all the help.

Great explanation, thanks!! I always thought both ends of the axle were Constant Velocity...now I know. If the problem is the stub axle being loose via the clip breaking or other means, can you get to the area where a new clip can be snapped on or does the diff need to come apart to access? How about if it's the cup...is it easier to fix or just get another trans and diff? Thanks again for your time.

Great ideas, thanks!! Can you further explain # 1 and 2? Maybe just say what DOJ stands for. I do all the work on my cars, but I can't figure what DOJ stands for. I'm still learning how the front part of the AWD works. Thanks again.

I pulled it home with a tow dolly with the trans in N and the driveshaft unbolted at the rear. In case it wasn't clear, the speedometer only moves with the car running and I put it in gear. That's a good point about driving the rear wheels at least, but it definitely doesn't. Could the front be that wasted that it doesn't transfer any power to the rear? Who knows. I forgot to check the fuse, thanks for the reminder. I'll be draining the fluid tomorrow. Anyone ever seen this before?

Hi, I'm usually over on the older gen sube thread, but I just picked up a 95 Legacy AWD last night with an odd issue. It's an automatic with 154,000 on it and when you put it in any gear including reverse, the speedometer moves, but the car doesn't. It sounds like the trans is spinning, but not getting out to the cv's(which look fine). Almost as if the car had all four cv's taken off. I revved it a little and when I put it back in park, it grinded a bit because the gears were still spinning(just like when you're still moving and you jam into park) Ever hear of this? Could the trans be fine, but the front diff wasted? If I get a trans from the junkyard, do they usually come with the front diff as well? Sorry for all the questions. Oh yeah, I did check the fluid in the trans and it's a bit below the lowest hole on the stick. I'll fill it up tonight, but I can't believe that's gonna fix the problem. Thanks for any help.

A must read... http://www.coolcarsautosales.com/Car%2015.htm

Yeah, thanks for the update. I'll be getting the kit soon.

Thanks, McBrat

Where exactly on the lower left dash? I have 2 factory holes that are deletions. Is it supposed to go in one of them? If so, which one? If not, where exactly does it mount? Thanks

Cheaper than I thought, thanks again

Thanks Trogdor, that's the post I was waiting for.

Sounds easy. Thanks for the update. Where did you get the kit from? I only have the carb right now. Let me know how the tuning goes and any other snags or mods you might run into. Thanks

Great footage. Good to see some old skool subes in action.

Yeah, keep us posted mudboat. I have a Hitachi, but I'm looking to convert to a Weber. I have the carb, but that's it. Would love to hear the steps needed, parts needed and how hard it was to convert and most of all, was it worth it? Thanks