RONAN

I pulled into the local dealership last week, to talk with one of the mechanics and when I came out, all of the salesman were standing around my 88 4wd Justy. They were really amused by it. They had heard about them, but never saw one in person??? I guess that I have the only one left in Cincinnati???

I was able to fit a 2 core into my 93 Loyale wagon. I had to cut a small portion out of the radiator core on the passenger side to accomodate the larger tank and also cut about a 1/4" off of the 4 clutch fan studs to give me room enough to install the fan back on, but it was no problem.

I went through the same thing years ago when they started the E-Check here in SW Ohio. The person pulled my 87 wagon onto the rollers and set the emergency brake. When she let out on the clutch it stalled. I watched her repeat this twice more until I realized what was going on and ran out to stop her. The E-Check manager came over real quick and asked me to get back into the waiting area. I got into a verbal pissing match with him, when I tried explaining that Subaru`s emergency brake locks the front wheels. This guy was in denial and claimed that he had never heard of a set-up like that. Then he insisted on pulling the car up and running the back wheels on the roller. I told him that would`nt work either since she would have to engage the 4wd system to do this. Finally after this guy started taking a reality check, they just inserted a wand in the exhause pipe and held the tach at 3K to get their readings. 2yrs later, I took it in again and they asked me if it was a Subaru??? DUH!!! Apparently, somewhere at one of the E-Check stations they had a accident while testing a AWD vehicle and reserched into what vehicles could be tested on the roller and what vehicles could`nt. They had it programmed into their computers to red flag those on the list that had to be tested with a wand. No more problems after that. As of Dec.31 2005, they closed down all of the E-Check stations in SW Ohio.

93 4wd wagon with 5spd hi/lo, 3:90 diff. I get around 32mpg average to the tank full. My 87 4wd wagon with 5spd hi/lo 3:70 diff, got around 37mpg average to a tank full.

I`m enjoying the 36mpg average that my 88 AWD Justy is delivering right now. No problem cruising at 75mph on the highway trips home from work. Only had 1 good snowfall 8" since I ressurected it from the boneyard and it ate the white stuff like candy. For the downturn shots that some have thrown, you might have reasons, but obviously not the fun & enjoyment. RONAN

Ok, this is turning into a real MONGOLIAN SAFARI!!! Heres the latest, I seem to be the victim of a in-house coup attempt. The manager of the shop has no mechanical experience and all of the mechanics have been trying to make him look foolishly bad. The machine shop had given up on trying to remove the nut. The manager suggested that I either buy a new hub/arm assembly from the dealership or find a used one from a salvage yard, so I told them to let me have a shot at it. I took it to work, found a piece of pipe that closely fit the O.D of the nut and cut slots into the end of it to mesh to the slots in the nut. Then I welded a nut onto the end of the pipe. I fired up a oxy/acyt outfit with a small gas tip, heated the nut up and popped it loose with an impact. Pressed the old outer race out and sand blasted and washed the nut & bearing housing. I handpacked both roller assemblies & pressed the new bearing in, using the old race. Lubed & tightened the nut on and was on the road in 2hrs, back home. Since they were closed by the time I got back, I had my wife drop it off to them the next morning. This was 2 days ago. Yesterday, I stopped in, on my way home from work and found the car was still up in the air and the hub/arm assembly hanging, so I asked what was going on??? The manager said that the mechanic was having a problem installing the shaft. So I talked to the mechanic and he was swearing that the manager must have ordered the wrong bearing. I asked the mechanic if he had mic`ed the shaft journals and I.D of the roller assemblies??? He had`nt!!! It was if he had just given up. All he could say was that it`s the wrong bearing and that he told the manager to order another. The manager told him that it`s the right one and that he should force the shaft through by driving the castle nut on with an impact. The mechanic had enough since to refuse. I asked the manager if they had a micrometer and he looked at me like I just spoke russian. One of the other mechanics overheard me and handed me a cheap digital caliper. I took about 5 readings each and found that the journals were about .002 to .003 bigger than the I.D of the roller assemblies. Now I`ve been working with bearings for 30yrs and I`ve never seen a bearing manufactured wrong. So I wondered if there could be a possibility that they did indeed order the wrong bearing. I explained my finding to the manager and he said that he would call. I copied the bearing number on the roller assemby and handed it to the manager. He calls a different supplier up and gives them the number off of the federal mogul box. They look up the bearing for the car and tell him that all they carry is Timken and they can`t cross reference. He hangs up. I told him that he gave them the wrong number and that he was supposed to give them the number that is on the bearing itself. I told him that all manufacturers have there own catolog numbers on the box but the number stamped on the bearings go by a international number and are the same. He had that deer in the headlight stare. I asked him to call them back, look at the bearing and confirm if the numbers were the same. He refused, saying that he did`nt want to give them the impression that he was stupid??? So I finally uncorked and told him that he was a certified idiot and that I will go down the street and talk with them myself. I noticed that all of the mechanics had heard and were in hysterics at this. So I went to the parts store that I normally deal with and explained my delimma. They got a bearing out of stock, that they listed and it confirmed to be the same. I bought it with the ideal that if it fits, OK, if not, I can take it back. So I head back and find the shop to be closed... Now, I`m wondering if when one of the roller assemblies failed and created a lot of heat, it might of torqued or distorted the journal and twisted the 2 journals just enough so that the shaft won`t go ??? I called some of the parts stores for a CV-halfshaft and was told that it would have to be ordered. Earliest E.T.A Feb 1st. WELCOME TO MY WORLD OF INSANITY!!!!

I took the car into the shop and they verified that the rear wheel bearing had disintegrated. They removed the hub/arm assembly and sent it to their machine shop. They tried without any luck on removing the outer race. Then they called the dealership and was told that it takes special tooling and some sort of special machining to remove the outer race at a cost of $350. My question is; has anyone encountered this situation and removed the outer race themselves & how they went about it??? I have`nt seen it yet, but was wondering if it would be possible to use a burring tool and gouge the inside of the race on both sides and collapse it inward??? I sure could use some help & input on this calamity...

Thanxxx for the response. Your right with the "depends on if you have the time/place/" which I have neither at the moment. I took it to the local garage this morning and they gave me a out the door quote of $243. I have to bite the bullet this time...

Ok, wifey told me that my wagon is making some bad noises in the rear. I took it out for a spin and heard the same thing. I jacked the rear up and grabbed each wheel for looseness. Found the drivers-side to be wobbling badly. So I pulled the cotter pin and got a full turn and a half opn the castle-nut before it tightened. I torqued it to scooby specs and checked it again. There is still the slightest play in it still. Took it for a test drive and heard some noise and also it felt like the car dragged a little intermittedly. I`m suspecting that I lost a ball or 2. What do you think ??? Also, what is the going rate in cost to have this repaired if I do it myself, compared to having a garage do it???

I just bought a set of Blizzaks for my Loyale.

JUSTIFIED, you described exactly what I`ve been going through...

I appreciate the response back>>>THANXXX I had gone and registered on that board a couple of weeks back and got on, but every time I had gone back since, it won`t let me back on??? I`t keeps sayin that I have to wait for administrators approval ??? RONAN

Anyone know if its posi ???

I have resurrected an 88 4wd Justy. To the Justy owners out there, is the rear differential an LSD ???

Thanxxx Again!!!

I am presently running an open 3.90 rear diff and was wondering if it is possible or difficult to convert to a LSD ??? I have a spare 3.70LSD that I can get parts from. Is the gears interchangeable between the 2 or even possible ??? RONAN

I plan on using my stock rims for winter only and running a premium all season on the pug rims. I guess that I should have been more specific on asking what size of tire in combination with the 14" wheels, that would`nt rub. I`m running 185/70/13`s now and was wondering if I could get away, running a 195/60/14 with out rubbing??? THANXXX for the responses so far>>>Ronan

I`ve got a set of 14" alloy pug wheels that I want to install on my 93 Loyale wagon. Question; that I have to the members, that have 14" pugs on their scoobs is what size are you running??? and what brands ???