RONAN

Just to add to this from a safety stand point on frontal crashes. I saw a manufacturers letter dealing with crumple zones during a frontal crash. It is imperative that the spare tire under the hood be in place and secured. The tire acts as a key to the collapsement. Just another 2 cents of advice....

Still looking for suggestions???

I had one installed in my 93 Loyale wagon. You have to cut out a hole for the transfer lever but it`s really easy. Also, try to get the mounting plates that hold down the console from the donor car. It makes things easier.

Temp gauge started to climb on me sitting in traffic today. As long as I was moving the temp was Ok. Got home and let it sit. After it was cooled downed, I checked the radiator for coolant level and found it to be OK. Could`nt find any leaks either. I started the car and let it idle until it got to normal temp and watched. The gauge started to slowly climb higher and noticed that the fan was trying to start but was only bumping on and off. I`m planning on running a temporary feed to the fan to verify that the fan motor is good. I think there should be a relay somewhere but I don`t know the location? Also, where is the temp sensor located ?

Check out a SVX diff...

All right Justy owners>>> I`ve got the opportunity to buy a 87 2wd Justy that needs a clutch. How difficult is it to change???

Clutch-Pack LSD: 1985-1986 (production up to 3/86) XT 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11000). 1986-1987 (production from 4/86-10/86) GL 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11001). 1986-1991+ (production from 11/86) Loyale/GL 4WD is listed with a 3.70 LSD option (Subaru part # 7220 11002). 1988-1991 GL and XT-6 4WDs with single range transmissions are listed with a 3.90 LSD option (Subaru part # 22011 GA022). July 1986 onwards LSD assembly (just the carrier) is also available new from your Subaru dealer if you wish (Subaru part # 22049 GA010). NON-LSD Most R-160s you see under Subarus will NOT be an LSD. There were no LSDs of any kind in 1995-1999 Subarus. Look for the following Subaru part numbers (look at the foil sticker for part number and ratio): 7220 11010: 3.70 ratio 7220 11011: 3.70 ratio 7220 11012: 3.70 ratio 6220 06020: 3.90 ratio 6220 06021: 3.90 ratio 6220 06022: 3.90 ratio 27011 AA151: 3.90 ratio 27011 AA040: 4.11 ratio 27011 AA110: 4.11 ratio 27011 AA111: 4.11 ratio

I installed a 2 row in my 93 Loyale Wgn. I had to trim out a little of my radiator core on the passenger side next to the headlight mounting frame to fit because the radiator tank is larger. Was`nt a problem. Make sure you cut about a 1/4" off of the end of the 4 clutch fan mounting studs to allow for room to re-install your fan or your going to have fun...

Did you replace the front passenger halfshaft? Does it have a harmonic balancer on it?

Ok, go ahead and try the sensor 1st. Now here are some of my problems similar to yours. I resurrected one from the crusher. Until I changed out the (est.) 25ft of vacuum hose going to every component under the hood, mine was giving me similar fits to your ailments. Granted, you mentioned that the car is running and idling fine, there still might be an intermitted leak that occurs. Next, check that the plug wires are not shorting out on the hot air pickup pipe at the front of the engine. Then get a ohm meter and check the carb sensor. Can`t remember off the top of my head what resistance it should show but it seems like 42ohms is good, but make sure by checking your manual. I had one of these fail. Does it happen after you get in a situation of flooring the gas? I have had the linkage to the choke plate sticking in a overtraveled position and eventually shutting me down or causing a horrendous miss. When you start the car and drive, there is a sensor on the firewall that should make a pronounced click after about a mile. This is to release the choke, if this is failing it could cause your problem. Check the fuel tank return lines and make sure they are not clogged. Change out the fuel filter. Verify that your check engine light is working. Pull one of the vacuum lines from one of the sensors under the hood. You can also see if there is a code stored on the ecu for a clue to your mystery. Just some of my frustrations to pass along. Good luck in your hunt...Ronan:banghead:

What I like about mine is 4wd & 40mpg. Not bad for 18yr old technology>

I know we`ve been through this before but I will mention again. My 87 Gl wgn had the EA82 spfi with a 5spd D/R and a 3:70LSD from the factory...

Could`nt believe it when I got an E-mail from them also.

Listen, I don`t want to get you reared up, but I had a similar incident like your wishing for and I was the following car. This idiot would speed up and slow down on purpose to restrict the flow of traffic. He was forcing people to accelerate erratically and make dangerous maneuvers to get around him. When it was my turn to try and get around him, I simply flashed my brights on and off to signal that I was going to attempt to pass. He proceeded in giving me the brakelight treatment causing me to brake hard and creating a dangerous situation with those behind. I got in one of those rare fits of RAGE and tried to pass again. Same thing, he brake lighted me and this time I became the aggressor and busted him. This really shocked the guy and he actually sped up. Then it happened again and I repeated my response. The guy decided that he was going to up the ante by swerving and braking and I pitted him off the side of the road and went on. I was doing the speed limit + 5 and some of the people that were stuck behind that passed me congradulated me. I kept waiting for the sheriffs to show up at work but they never did....Make sure you get their plate before you play bumper tag or you might run into someone that is very familiar with the pit maneuver.

Had a similar incident. I ended up having the engine exchanged. Turned out to be the timing belt tensioner pulley bearing had failed. Sure sounded like a rod knocking. Expensive learning curve.

Any hitch for scooby wagons 85 on up will work. I installed my old one from my 87 wagon onto my 93. They mount the same. Easy to install.

My 93 Loyale passed Ohio e-check when we had it with a huge Thrush on it. No problem at all. Should of heard that distinct sound as they tached it up to get their readings. All heads were turned...

The way I confirmed my front and back were the same, was since my car was up in the air on 4 jack stands already, I put a piece of masking tape on the front and rear fender at 12 o`clock and marked the tires with yellow crayon in line with the tape. Put the vehicle in a gear that you can turn by hand and after a revolution it should come back to the same point on front and back. GRANTED, this is a manual transmission...

Try checking the tires first. See if you threw a belt or lost a balance weight.

A while back, I had a similar problem. It turned out that the water pump had a plastic impellar and after it started to warm up, for some reason the pump flow diminished. I changed to a metal impellar pump and the problem disappeared and has`nt come back.

Check ebay, I bought one for $49.

I`ve had the same thing happen to me with 2 subarus in the past. Always on the rear. What I found is that with wear, the cotter will get enough play in it to allow the nut to move, causing this. I`m talking about less than a 1/32" movement will create the pronounced clunking noise. Since my problems, I make it a practice of installing a new cotter that fits tight & folds around the nut whenever I need to do any brakework or maintenance.

Don`t make the same mistake I made. I thought that I`d blown the engine because of a loud knock. I even took it to the dealership to confirm and they huddled around and speculated by listening that it was everything from a wrist pin to a connecting rod. I went ahead and had a friend pull the engine and replace with another. Turned out to be nothing more than a timing belt idler bearing had exploded. Investigate all avenues before pasting judgement. It might save you money....

Kroil

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