RONAN

Biggest concern would be bad gas. I would try to syphon out and replace as much as possible. I would also change the oil after driving it a short distance to remove any condensation build-up. Just one mans opinion.:cool:

No, not the same. Even the rear diff is different. The only similarity is the Carbs.:cool:

OK, who passed me on I-71 South just past Ceasars Creek State park and slowed down to give me the thumbs-up for my Loyale wgn??? They were driving a white Forester with a large decal on the rear hatch that said SCOOBY SLED. If you are a member, THANKS for the thumbs-up...RONAN:headbang:

I checked connections and found nothing obvious. After re-installing the alternator and starting the car. I noticed that the idiot lights did`nt come on. Took the car over and had them load test and check for amperage output. It passed. Have`nt had anymore problems. Now I`m suspecting a short somewhere. I will have to wait and see. Thanks for the response back and good advice Bucky92.

Tapping in for advice, I`ve got a 92 Loyale wgn that this morning upon start-up showed the charge light and the brake light on the panel light up. It was a solid light on idle and when revving dims down to nothing. I`ve had this happen a couple of times before in past years and it would turn out to be bad diodes in the alternator. I pulled it out and took it over to Autozone to be tested and it tested good. The desk jockey suggested that I install it back and bring the car over to have a amperage load test put on it to check the alternator output and battery. Anyone had similar ailements like this in the past? Any suggestions on looking elsewhere in the system?

\ I run 195/60/14`s on mine.

Had a similar problem with my temp gauge and when I grounded it to verify that it worked, damaged the meter and had to replace it. Done this many times before without a hitch, but this did happen to me. Just a heads-up.

Anyone notice in the commercial sitting on the left? I could be wrong but I think it`s a turbo Justy:confused:

Find some pugs. I run 195/60/14`s without a problem. A lot wider stance.

Inspect all of the "thousands" :-p of vacuum lines for a leak or leaks.

I installed a d/r 5spd tranny in my 93. Not much of a hassle.

Just to verify what I heard. The Service rep at my local Scoob dealership told me the exact same thing. He said it`s designed for frontal impact safety and you don`t want to drive without it in place. Unless you FEEL LUCKY:cool:

Sorry I did`nt get back sooner. Been busy. I know what your going through, since I was there and done that. I suggest that you get a service manual like I did and throw away the chilton. The service manual has way more detail and simple in the troubleshooting department. After my calamity that matches yours in every detail, I got one of them and reading through on troubleshooting that circuit, saved me a lot of un-needed frustration and anger. With my problem, like yours, I went as far as taking the whole dash out thinking there was a fan relay hidden somewhere up under. Then after grounding out and smoking my temp gauge in dash from troubleshooting under the hood, I had to pull and replace the instrument panel. Your problem sounds like either the tempsensor or the thermoswitch. PM me if you need any further help.

Another thing, if I`m reading your description right about the paperclip, turn the ignition key to on and see if you can honk the horn? I did something similar to this and fried my in dash temp gauge. If not, check the fuse to see if it`s blown since the radiator fan and horn are on the same feed circuit.

I just went through this a few months back. I ended up replacing the thermosensor and the temp gauge sensor, both located side by side on the back end of the block. I had the same symptoms as you described.

We just got 3" in my neck of the woods. First snow of the year. I know, it`s measley compared to what you guys in the mountainous areas get, but it was fun all the same. Still waiting for some bumper high stuff

Had the same thing happen to me years ago. Back when Midas offered a lifetime replacement on there halfshafts, they replaced one with the wrong spline and when they backed it out of the bay, the pin snapped. They replaced it with the right spline without any problems.

Check the dampers in the ductwork.

Around $200. You could donate it to a charity also. As for repairs, parts are tough to come by, but engine replacement is all according to your abilities or desire. :cool:

I would go with a 87 on up FI EA82 wagon, no turbos. Just one mans opinion.

Fellow I worked with always poured his oil after changing it into all of his cracks and openings on his vehicles and they still look good after 25+ years.

Seeing that pic makes me JEALOUS!!! In my neck of the woods, we have only had 1" of snow back in early December and so far this winter about 6" of rain. Our temps are on pace (avg. 50F) for being the warmest winter on record. My yard is a total swamp now.

I run Castrol 10/30 in the winter and 20/50 in the summer.

I had to do some slight mods while installing my 2row in my 93 Loyale wgn and one of those was to cut about a 1/4" off of the water pump studs. I found that it was the only way to re-install the clutch fan without damaging the radiator. I also had to trim out a 1" vertical section on the radiator core next to the passenger side headlight to accommadate the larger radiator tank. Just one man`s opinion, but I would either go back with the clutch fan or your suggested flex fan if you see summer time conditions and traffic that I have to deal with. I use my A/C and found that stepping up to a 2row gave me the extra cooling that I desperately needed for my section of the woods, where I sometimes see unhealthy 95+ with 90+ humidity:mad: Before I had the 2row, I can remember seeing my temp gauge hitting the 3/4 to 7/8`s mark in creepy crawler traffic. Now the highest it goes is to maybe the 1/2 mark...

The U.S Gen1 models were 87-88 and the 89-94 models were Gen2. This was U.S only, though. The actual Gen1 models worldwide started in 83? But don`t quote me on that one. As far as I know, there is 4 generations of Justys since they are still sold across the pond. Gen3 models were actually Geo Metro`s with a AWD driveline that Subaru sub-contracted out to Geo/Suzuki. I wish they were sold here in the U.S since there is a huge amount of (2wd`s) running around to scavenge parts from. I would have easier luck finding parts for a Stutz Bearcat and probably cheaper than hunting down parts for my 88 4wd. You see they offered 4wd in 88 and changed almost the entire design in 89, thus I`m stuck with a rarity for securing parts on the drivetrain. I have been able to modify some parts from a Gen2 to apply to mine but others are difficult.