RONAN

When I changed out my engine, it had a electrical and pressure sending unit attached. Check it out and see. If it does, you will be able to use a instrument panel out of a 92 Loyale. Just run a wire from the pressure sending unit to the older panel with gauge. I`m planning on doing this myself when I can find the time...

Hopefully this is the source of your problem, good luck<

I just went through an episode of electrical frustration that led me to remove the entire dash. I could be wrong but take a look all the same. The ECU is a flat rectangular box about 8"x10" that is towards the back corner under the dash. What I`m referring to is mounted right up under the bottom of the dash on the side-wall above the hood release cable. Check it out and tell me what it says.

Ok, bare with me on this because I think that it`s under the dash, located against the drivers side wall just above the hood release handle. It`s a box about 2"x3" and it will say ignition module on it. I think???

I tried having mine changed on my 87. Same situation. I took it to a tranny shop for the changeout and it turned into a nightmare. I ended up getting a driveshaft from the salvage yard. Don`t go through the same hassle that I experienced. Find a salvage yard that has one. You`ll be way ahead dollar wise...

Hi guys, just thought I would toss in one mans opinion. The brains behind the Escort company which was founded in my "backyard", branched off from the company after they decided to diversify and got into financial trouble. The gentleman that was behind the technical design and co-founder of their radar company started his own, also in my "backyard". His product, which I own 2 of is rated as the best bar none and has not let me down as of yet. It is called Valentine 1. Expensive by comparison but well worth it!!! Just one mans opinion...:cool:

Check the clutch fan, I had one of these fail and gave me the same headaches...

Get a 1 7/16 deepwell socket and a torque wrench. Pull the cotter pin and check that the nut is at 140ftlbs before changing out the bearing. I`ve had them back off just enough to give you the false pretense of a bearing failure. This is for a 4wd Loyale.

From one Justy owner to another, if it runs, take advantage of the MPG and drive it till it drops. On the Justy board people have done the auto to manual swap, but have ran into wiring problems. Just a note, There is a book out listing the all time 50 worst cars manufactured and the Justy with a ECTV made it. No problems with the manual tranny. They all suffer from a poorly designed oil pump. JUST ONE MANS OPINION!!!

Leave it be and take advantage of the gas mileage.

Define moisture??? If the engine was`nt firing, there will be some moisture on the plugs>>>fuel???

Got everything back together and checked the fuse to the fan again and found it to be blown this time. I replaced the fuse and drove the car for a couple of miles and then I lifted the hood and found that the fan was working like norm. I let it sit there and idle while the fan cycled on and off like normal and the temp gauge never rose above the 1/3 mark. GO FIGURE! 10 days of banging my head against the concrete driveway and still have`nt figured out what happened. But the car is up and running again until the next time.

I did this once. When I bought my 1st Scoob, back in 87. The car was a month old when I got the bright idea to haul a 1/2 skid load of bricks about 30mi. from my house to my dads. Since the car was new, I had always heard that they are built tough and long lasting, so I wanted to put it to the test. I laid out plastic sheeting across the back with the rear seats folded down. I even had the sheeting on the passenger front. I stacked all the bricks evenly in the back and stacked them on both front floors and passenger seat in the front. The weight was distributed throughout the car and it was squated on all 4 tires. I made it there without damage and trudging some of the hills were a real chore on the drivetrain. Made me a believer!!!

Found a instrument cluster from a U-pull it out of a 89. Everything looks the same. Replaced the temp sending unit and installed the instrument cluster. Turned the key to the start position and same results. So I started removing everything and unbolted the dash again. Looked at all the wiring from where it comes through the firewall out to everything and found nothing out of place or smoked. the grounds were tight. While everything was just hanging loose, I hooked up the cluster and turned the key again. GUESS WHAT??? Temp meter was normal. So I started the vehicle and let it run until the gauge got up to the half way mark and back to my original problem. The fan which is just laying on top of the battery/fender, right now is just blinking on and off. So I started gingerly reinstalling the dash and my temp gauge problem has not came back as of yet but I`m still dealing with the fan issue or problem #1. Anyone out there had this kind of frustrating misery before and a solution???

I`ve noticed the same on both of my vehicles (Justy & Loyale wgn) with cargo baskets. It`s about a 3mpg loss...

Thats what I`m suspecting.

The halfshaft is mounted on a splined shaft coming out of the transaxle. It`s held by a pin. The other end of the halfshaft spindle goes through the bearing housing and splined hub and is held by a bevel washer and castlenut. PM me is you need anymore assistance. I just changed my entire front from transaxle out...

All right still banging my head with this. In my urgency I pulled the fan thermo-switch out while the engine was a little on the hot side draining the coolant. Took it to the parts store and they ordered one in for me the next morning. I installed the new one and filled with coolant to start. I turned the key and noticed that my temp gauge started climbing and pegged out before I turned the motor over??? Now I`m thinking that I might have cooked my temp sending unit??? I removed it and with my meter, took a ohm reading 2.06. Then I put it in the freezer and chilled it down and took another and it gave me a reading of .577. I`m assuming that its working??? With both thermo switch and temp switch unplugged and turning the key to start position but not cranking the gauge still pegs??? Then I plugged both in and no change. Where am I not looking to correct this problem???

Anyone know where the thermoswitch is located ???

All right, I pulled the fan out and ran temporary wires to verify that it`s not the fan. It ran Ok. Next, I went to my shop manual to locate where the fan relay is. Problem is, my manual is for a 89 Justy and I ran into a snag. The electrical drawing identifies it as being in a row with others up under the dash? I unbolted my dash and pulled back for a look-see and found nothing? Anyone know if the 88 models have a relay and where it might be? I am assuming since my in dash temp gauge is working fine that it should be sending a signal to the ECU and in turn activating the relay??? I`m a novice on Auto electronics and could use some advice on which way to go too solve my delimma??? I`m about ready to throw in the towel and wire the fan in direct, but the car runs a little on the hesitant side until the temperature reaches normal. This will be a problem with the upcoming season change... Anyadvice is surely appreciated.

Good Luck looking, I don`t think there is an aftermarket supply. At least not on Gen1 Justys. The dealership wants an arm and 2 legs for just one. Imagine the cost for all 4. Better get a loan.

Justy???

Sorry for any confusion, my 87 was spfi also.

Mine was located under the hood next to the master cylinder.

Do an engine swap and leave the compressor off of it...