MoscowSubaruDude

Many thanks folks... he's got the link, we'll see how it goes...

It's not my car, it's a friend of mine, however, he requires some sort of trailer hitch with a 2-inch receiver, for the mounting of a bike rack on the back. He had a rather unfortunate experience involving him, a roofmount bike rack, a sweet Kona Jake, and the garage. Anyway, I said I'd ask for him, he'll be getting a link to this site, and perhaps will feel compelled to join our merry little band! What/where can he find this trailer hitch? Is it custom fab only? I doubt it, as I've seen several of these rigs running around with trailer hitches that looked quite spiffy. The car, specifically, is an 02 Outback Impreza Sport. I'm not up on the newer suby's, stick to EA, myself, so if that means anything significant to someone, let me know. Greatly appreciated, folks, from both of us. CR

We drink enough around here, we joke that we piss 80-proof, and that it'll work as ethanol in the tank:) just let it settle, strain off the alky, and dump it in. Tempted to test that theory on a lawnmower one of these days...

If it's just flooding, something that worked for Sunshine when I came to bring her home this weekend is jerk the fuel pump fuse... I yanked the SPFI fuse, does the same thing... you can do it the hard way and plug the hoses after you take them off the carb... make sure you have spark (remove plug, keep wires on, hold on head, and crank... check for spark) and then crank it over a few times... it'll burn the flooded gas out of the cylinders, which, due to the flat design, can become quite a bit. Give it fuel again, crank a few times, and bam. Do it with throttle wide open to start with, make sure you get enough air. You are running a fuel filter, right? I ran without a filter for a month or two on my first suby, it does have something to do with regulating flow... gas mileage went down dramatically, and it ran way rich. Wouldn't start half the time, sounds just like this. That's just my 0.02, sounded like our problem earlier. Best of luck to you, and let us know how it turned out.

Personally... I'd create Frankensubie... take a totally wrecked EA81 body, put it on a beefy frame, throw a 502 chev in there, total crawler solid axle setup... and then go bash the hell out of it.

Personally, I've had this happen... it's probably the throwout. Putting the clutch in puts the throwout under load, and if it's going out, it'll make more noise... the tranny isn't connected to the engine at that point, therefore, it couldn't be making that noise. If it drives fine, and makes the noise when the clutch is in aka throwout under load, then it's the throwout.

Having some minor experience with banging on car parts with a sledge... I'd recommend using a rubber mallet, or a dead-blow hammer. I've goobered up a few parts beating on them, and have since switched to using softer stuff... plus the dead-blow delivers a helluva whack. Just my .02.

Well... I haven't used it yet... It's the gear reduction type, big gearcase with the motor on the side... I'm headed out tonite, I'll be back tomorrow afternoon evening, so I'll let ya'll know how it did.

Cheers man, many thanks. Possibly the best response of any thread I've posted so far, thanks all.

They're suby alloys, I got lucky and found a set in the junkyard the other day... cleaned up rather nicely. I was going to sell them, but now that I've seen them on a nice-looking car, I think I might find a hatch myself and use them on it... very nice rims, I like. They're supposedly not very common, either.

Hey many thanks folks... the dude at the junkyard was fresh out of my old high school, he was a freshman when I was a senior, so I'm quite sure he hasn't a clue. I have heard that the mounting points are different... anyone else heard that? It's not hard to remedy, I'll just take my angle grinder and open it up a bit, total rednecktivity, but if I don't have to, I won't. Ya'll are awesome, thanks again.

Is there a difference in the EA82 starters for stick versus auto? I need to grab one for a trip to Seattle, and my neighbor's got three spares for his turbo wagon, 3AT... The car I'm picking up is 5mt... the guy at the junkyard said there was a difference, i just need to confirm... he's said some other stuff before that was totally bull. If I can put a starter from an auto onto a stick, successfully, then that'd be cool. Thanks in advance. Chris

Bear in mind these are all via speedo's, which may or may not be accurate. 83 GL wagon, 2wd, 5spd-89mph on a back road in Moscow. Flat. Curvy. 86 GL hatch, 4wd, 4sp D/R-84 mph on the freeway. Flat. 83 GL wagon, 4wd, 4sp D/R-102, through my town. Running scared. Speedo didn't go hi enough, but my buddy in his little POS honda was doing 100 even, and I was passing him by just ever so little. Took 3 miles to get up to that speed. 87 GL-10 Wagon, Turbo, 4wd, 5sp MT-148, I-90 through Ritzville. Ticket for 100, radar said 148. These little cars *can* go fast, if you really try. I was amazed at the turbo's speed... I was going dowhill, slight grade, and just decided to get on it, winding out every single gear to 7k. Couldn't see the tach when it hit top speed, because I was too busying making sure I stayed between the ditches. It was kinda cool to get the ticket, because, due to my faulty speedometer, which said I was only going 55 (stupid digi-dash), I never knew how fast I was going when I topped out.

I pulled a fairly new Dodge Ram Cummins pickup out of about 2 feet of sticky Northern Idaho mud during the winter with my 86 hatch... mud that I had just driven through with no problems... he was stuck up to his hubs, spinning, not going anywhere... about 8 inches of snow on the ground, i had rear-wheel chains on there, threw it in 4-lo, hooked up the chains, and went at it... he came out. This with a car that when I got hi-centered, all it took to pull me out was a POS 2wd atv with a piece of hardware-store rope. Not a bad trade-off really, shoulda seen the look on the guys face. Asked me how hard it was to modify that engine to do that, and when I said, nah, it's stock, with 252k on it, he about blew an o-ring. Following a coupla jeeps around 7-mile ORV park in my wagon, going everywhere they did, including rocks, mud, high-speed, hillclimbs, etc... got some serious props from em. I'm sure I'll have more of these in the months to come when I get said wagon back in running condition.

So we were doing our usual 2am Urban Alley Rally, and accidently hit someone's garbage can. You know, those big, 5-foot tall, urethane plastic garbage receptacles that are meant to be lifted by a hydraulic ram on the back of the truck? Well... we plowed it totally under the vehicle. 3 minutes of frantic 4wd tire squealing, jacking car up, squealing some more, it was free, albeit extremely mangled (we've since located a new one to take it's place, nobody was the wiser). However, the car now has a wobble on acceleration/deceleration... perhaps tie rods? I checked them out, they're solid, but, of course, I can't put the high stress on them via my hands as compared to my driving... anyone have any ideas of what else to look for? It's a bit annoying, I got pulled over this morning because the cop thought I was drunk, weaving in the lane and all. I wasn't, thankfully, but it's enough of a problem to be a bother. Alignment is peachy, it tracks straight once I correct with the wheel upon in-gear decceleration or acceleration. Any ideas? Anyone ever done something insane like this?

Honestly, I may be wrong, but I think you just described what millions of Subaru owners already have experienced, and have come up with a term for it... Gutless. However, if you've overcome the 'gutless' part, then you might look into tire slip. Your motor/tranny mounts aren't going to 'sponge' power... they move to their extreme, and stay there for the duration of the force applied. I usually have a little bit of tire burnage going on during in-town driving... because I drive like a maniac. That's really the only thing I can think of, and it's more than you've gotten so far, but maybe an expert will reply. Good luck with it, I wanna know what the problem was.

There is a possibility I will go. The cash-on-hand situation is the only thing that will keep me and my roommate from heading out with you guys... we'll see. I'll PM/call when I know for sure that I'm going. Really really wanna go. Plus Cory wants to go get this Brat I found for him, and get it running in time for the show... long shot, but it may happen if we haul arse.

Many thanks... I shall get that done tomorrow night and see what happens:) Thanks!

I have the disty timed in at 0 degrees, hooked up properly (finally:P took forever to get that thing out of the block:headbang:) but there are two wires coming off of it that we didn't label... and being as we were indeed a bit intoxicated when this thing came out, I don't recall where they went. Also, the coil is sitting there, naked as a jaybird, no wiring attached to it, however, I may be able to puzzle that out. Soooo... what I need is a 'green wire from xxx goes here, this wire goes there, and then this one over here... ' that type of thing. Anyone who could throw that on there, it'd be greatly appreciated. Also.... what's the official proper timing? I haven't looked too hard at the manual, being as it's for newer cars, and it doesn't make a distinction between the EA81 and the EA82... just says 1.8, and the various diagrams are a mix of the two. Quite annoying. I'd imagine it's about 5-10 degrees retarded, just from prior experience on other motors, other cars, but i really don't know. Thanks!

Ok... got this thing almost done, been working on it half-assed for the last few weeks, got it all hooked up... when we tore the motor out, we didn't label anything, like idiots, so I haven't the foggiest notion of how to hook up the majority of the underhood wiring. Specifically, the coil/disty/ignition in general... the wires are pretty much gone, nothing much to go off of... I have the manual for the 85-whatever Subaru's, and it has schematics for the brat and hatch, EA81 engines... however, I don't know if that will work for the 83GL wagon... anyone know if there's a difference? Or if anyone has a link/jpg of said schematic, feel free to email it to me redinger.chris@gmail.com And I'll get it there. Appreciate the help. CR

Well, actually, my intention is to totally gut the instrument panel, and replace everything with brushed stainless steel. Tachometer square in the middle, perhaps a 5 inch one with light, speedo as a 3-inch on the right side, put the boost/fuel/temp in a guage pod on the pillar, and put a wideband o2 sensor on the left side... nicely rounded instrument set, and when I get it done i'll toss you the part numbers and how I did it and whatnot. I don't think I'll be doing the analog conversion though, considering what a previous gentleman mentioned on here, about diodes and all that jazz. I can handle electric theory just fine, but I'm a nuts and bolts type of guy. So I think I'll just stick to my custom job, which, in the end, will probably prove easier, considering I just have to route my wires and hook up my sensors.

Pardon the use of that particular term there, Bill. No offense was intended. To make it very clear, you're not the only one with 'retarded' brothers and sisters. Developmentally delayed, if you prefer that. I'm not a very politically correct person, and my apologies if that offended you. I'm not a complete ogre. Moving on to the original purpose of this here thread. I played around with the tranny side of the cable, it was quite tight in the tranny, and lacking the proper tools to take it out (operating with a crescent wrench atm) I left it in there... however, the cable looks peachy all the way around, so the last thing I can think of to check is the gear. Might it be applecored? I read somewhere that if the seal on the tranny end of the cable lets go, you wind up goobering up your speedo due to leakage on the dash side... is there any way to diagnose that without gutting my dash? Thanks a ton. Chris.

Yeah, I've got the green one... the only real beef I have with the digital is the speedo issue, and the blinding light at night... the dimmer switch doesn't work, it's either full on or full off... if i could fix the light issue i'd keep it:P

Is the wiring any different between the various years? I've an 87 GL-10 Turbo, S/R 5mt... trip computer is busted up, just hanging by the harness, i'll wind up gutting it out too. I'd love to do the dash though... any wiring diagrams would be great. Is the tach signal the same as well? or is that custom as well?

I live 4 minutes away from a junkyard that has several EA-82 cars with the analog dash... how hard is it, wiring-wise, to swap the two? I'd much prefer the analog, for simple aesthetic reasons, I hate the digital crap. Is it just a direct swap, wires/cables/whatnot? or do i need to do a custom wiring harness? either way, it's probably what will happen, but i'll just do a temporary fix on the speedo. Where's this cable thing? top? bottom? back? front? didn't see anything remotely resembling a cable when i was under there, but I need to get a pressure washer, as the whole thing is literally smothered in dirt. Thanks!