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bart2546

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Everything posted by bart2546

  1. Pulled fan relay under dash, it kills one of the fans, the other one keeps going. I just don't know, so far I have not been able to locate a decent car to buy, nor have I been able to get financed, and mine isn't working, so generally I'm about to loose my job if this keeps up. Brandon
  2. Didn't try the one under dash yet, I try to locate it tonight when I get home from work. Brandon
  3. The one on the upper radiator hose connection to the block. The one with two leads off of it, it's NOT the one that controls the actual temperature gauge, the other one. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  4. Ok, went and replaced my thermostat and cleaned out my radiator and all that good stuff, no luck yet again, really frustrated at this point. Also with car running, I pulled the relays (from front to back) for the a/c one at a time, when I removed relay number 1 or 3, the fans seemed to kicked down a notch for speed but still continued, when I removed 1-4 all at once the fans did stop completely but the CEL remained on. I'm at a loss for words or where to turn... Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  5. They are labeled, in the lid of the cover, just labeled oddly I would think, generally the fuses I pulled earlier were (under hood) the Sub Fan I believe is what it said and (under dash) main fan...small fuses that is. However, all the A/C ones are labeled just A/C SBF and no furthur details...But I'll try pulling each A/C one when I get home from work tonight one at a time and see if that changes anything as I pull them. Thank you. Brandon
  6. It does do all of the same symptoms with A/C on or off, and heater on or off, I deffinitely wanted to test that, now the other thing is, my A/C is very cold, I just re-charged it last summer and it runs like it's new. As a matter of fact, if it's possible or if it's mental I'm not sure, but after I replaced my coolant temp. sensor it felt like it got even colder. And yes I have had a chiltons manual from when I bought the car. I just don't know where to go for reference. I see in the under-hood fuse/relay box there are 5 A/C relay/fuses under there, know which one it is that I should pull? And as far as blaming subaru for anything...no I do not, I love subaru still, it is an old car and going this long without problems and about 130,000 miles, 40 of those my own with no problems. The only reason I would go to Toyota is because the car prices I've been looking at in my area seem to fit what I could buy better than subaru could. I would still recommend subaru to anyone at anytime. P.S. I have two sensors, one with just one lead that controls the temp gauge, the other one is the one I replaced, with two leads one for the ECU and one for the fans, from what I understand. I'll go ahead and find the one that I need to pull to test in my manual if you can just provide the name of it. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  7. Ok so each one, no matter what model, states the coolant temp. sensor or circuit. Well it must be a circuit because I just replaced the temp. sensor and i still have the exact same problem. Now I am not trying to brag anything up or something of the sort but the wiring and everything on my car is CLEAN, and I discovered this basically by looking through connectors and wiring, no dirt, no loose connections and no cuts or crimps, now I know this could still be electrical flow itself, but I wouldn't know where to begin or what...as far as getting a new car I'm looking into a subaru baja and if not that, I may be leaving the subaru world and go for a toyota, nothing other than a RAV 4 however if I go toyota. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  8. Ok did the whole self self-diagnostics thing, only code that it spit out was 2 long blinks and 1 quick blink, so if I'm getting this right, the code is 21. Please is someone knows what this is, let me know, and don't let this stop you from helping me but if I can't get it with this, I'm going down to the dealer and buying myself a brand new subaru. I'm tired of messing with repairing cars. Thanks. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  9. Ok everyone, got the new sensor, disconnected and cleaned the contacts, installed the new sensor, made sure all lines where back in place, replenished coolant. Even went as far as to DC the battery and let the car sit for 10 minutes or so to reset the ECU, and all of this to no avail. Car still does the exact same thing with the exact same symptoms. Now at first thought I began to wonder "would it be the fuel injectors" but then it keeps taking me back to the fact that...the cooling fans stay on the entire time, making me think it is still something temperature related, you wouldn't think the ECU itself is fried in some parts, specifically that part?....please now I'm in need of real help because this puts me at basically square zero. And I repeat, no one near me has a code reader for my version of O.B.D. because they all have OBD II diagnostics....thanks in advance...P.S. if someone can find a regular OBD reader to buy, preferably online, please post the link because I have been completely unsuccessful in finding any code readers other than OBD II online... thanks. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci 95 Subaru Impreza L 1.8 Liter
  10. Ok located temp sensor unit, is under extensive wiring ETC ETC. I found it was located down and to the right of my PCV valve contrary to what my chilton manual said for my 1.8 L. Anyway, tried piddling with that no luck. (Mind you I had to take one of the last couple of availble days off of work because the stupid thing would not start to get me ther) Anyway, once I got it started good enough to drive it, I drove to several mechanics around my area, since mine is a 95, and that was the transition year from OBD to OBD II, no one has my connector to run a test on the CEL light, everyone has OBD II connectors but no versions before that, and of course mine is NOT OBD II...any input would be helpful, I guess at this point, is there some ease of replacing the sensor without practically dismantling the entire top side of my engine to get to the sensor??? Thanks for your input.. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  11. Ok, looked up the temp. sensor in my Chiltons, states that on the 1.2L the sensor is some where on the intake, however for mine for example, the 1.8L, it is on the radiator. I took a long look at the radiator, from top to bottom, and I cannot find where there is a sensor that goes on/in to the radiator, now on my old Jag, it was right there on the side and it stuck out, and the plug set up was the same as what my chiltons manual says, but I cannot locate this one to check it out, however while under there, I believe I found what would be the thermostat. On the lower radiator hose that leads to the engine, there is a diamond-ish shaped obeject with 2 bolts on each tip that hold it up to the radiator, in where I would believe to be the gasket, there is some built up greenish gunk, leading me to believe there may be a possibility of a leaking thermostat/gasket combo. If someone could give me some info if that is the correct assumption I would appreciate it and also if someone knows the exact location of this coolant temp. sensor on the radiator, please indulge me because I am lost as to where this thing is. I did take a look at some searches and some pictures that are posted on the site. Deffinitely helpful, but they were from a 2.2 liter, would my 1.8 have them in the same place? Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci 95 Impreza L 1.8 liter
  12. Thank you all for the replies. If I may ask, where would the fan temperature sensor be located, along with the ECU's engine temperature sensor...I will take a look at both when I can find them... Thanks again! Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  13. Greetings again to everyone! This will be the first problem I have had that was not, I guess you could say thus far "an easy fix"....About a month ago, when I would start my car while the engine was cold, it would be fine, then about at the half-way temperature point, the CEL light would come on, and so would my cooling fans. Then once it reached operating temperature, the CEL light would go off. As I posted before, once when this happened I brought the car to a stop to see how the engine was running when the CEL light did kick on, it ran at about 250 RPM's but did not stall... flash over to about 2 days ago, I get in and begin to start the car, and it cranked and cranked and cranked multiple times, strong battery, strong starter, no turn-over. After about 5 minutes of trying to start her, she did turn over, and her RPMs were extremely low, barely running, I attempted to give it some gas and it just bogged down even more. Anyway, about 2 more minutes after letting her do her thing, she was up to between 500 and 750 RPMs which is her normal, drove on home and she was fine, has not happened again...however what has changed as of today, is when I first start the car, the CEL light clicks on and remains on, and so do the cooling fans, and they are kicking on while the engine is cold. They run the whole time while driving (no matter what the temperature gauge does) and then when I get to my destination they continue to run until I turn the car off. To experiment, I pulled the fuses for each fan (one in engine compartment and the one in the interior compartment) The fans did stop however the CEL light remained on, so I figured ok, let me try to reset the computer of the car. Disconnected positive and negative terminals to the battery, let it sit about 30 to 45 minutes. Reconnected and still the same situation. Now, here is what is primarily bugging me: 1) What is this that is happening to my little Zubie? 2) I am a little worried since the problem started then got worse, can it get even worse from doing nothing? 3) Relating to question (2) if nothing can get worse, will it hurt to just leave the fans run all the time or will that burn them up? 4 and final)If I just pull the fuses for both fans and leave it like that, could that be of any damage since generally the fans never needed to kick on because my car never got that hot...I do apologize for this terribly long post, but I feel to have any idea you would need to know the whole story. As of right now also I have not had the CEL light diagnosed by a code scanner because I feel it may be possible to diagnose the problem but all of the other symptoms of the car besides the CEL light. Thanks to everyone in advance for any posts and please provide me with your input. Best Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci 1995 Subaru Impreza L 1.8 Liter
  14. Sorry I also do not have a code reader, and probably will end up going and getting it tested from a store or something, but I also wanted to add, I did some "tests" on the car this weekend and when it got to the half way point and the CEL kicked on, I came to a stop to see what the car would do while not moving down the highway...results: RPMS bounced up and down and up and down, a variable between 500 and 1,000 RPMs, while this happened, and I believe the cause of this, the dual cooling fans were kicking on and off, then on and off again, when they would kick on, the CEL light came on, when they would go back off the CEL light kicked right off with them...and as usual, once the engine warmed up, no problem at all...the car also does not miss or run rough in the sense that it doesn't bog down or stall at all...I know this is not a code from a reader but I thought maybe someone could take a crack at a guess at what this odd situation might be. Thanks... Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci '95 Subaru Impreza L 1.8
  15. Sorry this is not much of a reply for your question, but more of a CEL question similar to yours. My CEL light comes on every time when my temp gauge reaches the half-way mark to full operating temperature. It never comes on when cold, and goes off right away when fully warm, but stays on through the mid-range temperature....any ideas on the cause, I am completely lost on this one. Thanks in advance! Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci '95 Subaru Impreza L 1.8
  16. Followed the forum instructions, bought seafoam, made my car suck it through the PCV valve...conclusion: Seafoam = God's finger in a red and white can. The stuff made my car run perfect all over again like when I first got it. WooHoo for SeAfOaM!!! Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci 95 Subaru Impreza L
  17. That's exactly the car I have, 95 Impreza, 1.8, 5 spd. Not even all wheel drive, which actually after reading some horror stories about torque and trannies Etcetera etcetera, I'm kind of glad. Either way, I purchased mine for 3,000 dollars about a year and 3 months ago. I've only done oil changes and 1 set of brakes, and my CV joints needed replaced so I replaced both front half-shafts a.k.a. front axles, at once for preventative maintenence. Other than that, runs like a pro. I bought the car with 99,000 miles on it, minus a couple miles over, like 99,127 or something close to that. In this year and 3 month period, I have put 22,000 miles on the car. It is now up to 121,000 exactly because I just changed oil yesterday as a matter of fact. (I guess you could call it O.C.D. that I change my oil religiously at the 3,000 mile mark.)Have only put 1 set of tires on it also...other than that no problem with it at all. The lady I purchased it off of is about 50 years old, and she had it for about 2 years give or take, and she was given the car by her daughter, who is a high up with the NBC television channel executives. So needless to say the car has never been beatin. So I would say if you can find a good one, stick with it, I wouldn't think you would be sorry. Just my 1,600 cents on the matter. (sorry for the long post) Regards, Brandon
  18. Thanks for the replies so far. Yes those are the three bolts to which I am referring to. The other 2 that are in place are perfectly fine, the three on the other tower are fine. I'm hoping I can use that advice and tap it out, please please please I hope that's the way it will work because I really don't feel like going through the whole process of removing it and getting the part and marking the right areas and generally speaking, I just don't feel like doing it because there's only one way to do it, and that's the right and safe way..heh. Brandon Bartolomucci
  19. Thanks for the reply. So does that mean I can just replace it without even having to disassembly generally anything? (I really hope so because I do not feel like doing that if it is at all possible. Brandon
  20. Hello all, I have found myself in a somewhat weird position today. I was doing some cleaning under the hood and discovered a bolt was sheered off of my car. It is one of the three bolts that come up through the body surrounding the center of the strut mount. Now, to be honest, I have never noticed if this has been there before, if it recently broke off, or if it never existed since I purchased the vehicle. I know this may sound strange but with all the piddling around under the hood I've done I never did notice either way. But, now that I did notice, I was wondering: what is the part that I do replace, and how easy is it to get to? Do I have to take apart the entire strut assembly? E.G. remove the coil spring and the strut itself? How important is it that this bolt is replaced, can it cause damage to the strut assembly/steering mechanisms? I have not noticed any difference in driving ability, and no new noises like a loose assembly or anything of the sort in that manner. Comparing it to the other two bolts it appears to have "snapped" off right where the nut rested against the body. Below is a poor picture demonstration of what it kind of looks like in case I didn't describe it. The capital O is the center where the main strut bolt is and the little o's are the bolts/nuts themselves, this would be if you were looking at it from the front of the car: ...o o O o <---bolt that is broken Sorry about the long post, just concerned. '95 Subaru Impreza 1.8 Litre Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  21. This is exactly what I was thinking, if you look back through a couple of my posts, I had an axle problem and that's EXACTLY what happened to my vehicle. A faulty snap-ring in the new half-shafts that were put in, broke and you couldn't even tell until my mechanic pulled the wheel off and shook the axle. So this may be something to look into before you go into much more money if a transmission needs pulled/rebuilt or a new tranny period. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  22. I can relate to the non-starting when it rains, I don't know if your car was in the same position, but my 95 Impreza L was sitting at the slightest angle one night when it rained, wouldn't start the next morning however it did make some strange clicking sounds. I opened the hood and lo-and-behold some water managed to blow/leak its way past the gasket on the hood and was sitting on top of my battery. It was shorting the negative cable out. Again, I don't know if it's anything like your situation but I thought I might try to add some food for thought. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  23. Hello, I don't know if it's the same or not, but my mother has a 1998 Lumina with one of those microchip keys and the dealer wanted $60.00 to program a key, but then she talked to a woman at work who had the same car and she went and bought the key from the dealer, unprogrammed for about $15.00 and did this: Put the original key in, started the car, turned it off. Started the Car again, and turned it off. Put the new key in and went to start it and it worked. Now I don't know if that is coincidental and maybe the chip is just actually not needed, if it just works for the Lumina, or if you need to start and stop the car one more time after the second time (that part I forget). But I figured I'd just add this in just as a suggestion to try because I've never actually done it myself, but obviously have heard of something. Good luck. Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  24. I JUST HAD almost the similar problem in my 95 impreza. I had them replaced one day, on a friday, and that night a snapring in the CV joint itself was faulty and it seperated from the rest of the half shaft soooo I had no car all weekend long, had it towed back to the shop and my mechanic replaced it with another one free of charge in one day, it was just the fact that it was a faulty snap ring so I'd go with the idea of taking it back to the shop first before any type of warranty might expire, and I'll give you the same advice that was given to me on here, if your mechanic won't replace it/back up his work for free, find a new mechanic. Good Luck Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
  25. I have a 95 Impreza L 1.8 liter. I bought it with 99,000 miles for 3,000 dollars in January of 05. I have the milage up to 117,500 miles right now, so in one year I have put 18,500 miles on the car. Aside from oil changes, and CV boots, I have done nothing to the car until now. My CV joints themselves were making some clunking, and I had the whole halfshafts replaced on her. (Keep in mind this was preventive maintenance, they had not fallen apart or anything of the sort.) I can't complain about it what-so-ever. Best car I have owned, and this is my 7th car since I have been 16 years old (am now 19). I will make my pledge known to the internet world as of now: I will never buy another car that is not a Subaru. I have messed with the wiring of the vehicle myself to put in an audio system and done my own plugs and wires one time. I have a smooth idle and no noises while driving. I couldn't tell you enough how, as long as you shop and buy from a trustworthy seller, dependaple and awsome a Subaru will be for you. If you'd like to see mine, here is the link to my site on car domain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/446451 Regards, Brandon Bartolomucci
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