OB99W

Two questions: 1) Just to verify, are you saying that the brights only come on when flashed, but not if the switch is in the constant "high beam" position? 2) Does the car have DRL (Daytime Running Lights, usually on Canadian-market models)?

Mike, Ferret and Cougar have both given you good advice. However, I'd like to add one more thing. I believe the ECU (ECM) drain valve control pin (B134 pin 10) should remain high (not pull to ground) when the ignition switch is only placed in the "ON" position (engine not started); you should see close to battery voltage under that condition. However, once the engine is started the ECU can pull that pin to ground, and the voltage can then go low (typically under 1 volt). I'd suggest hooking up the voltmeter to B134 pin 10 (back probe, as before) and ground, so that you can see the meter from the driver's seat. Begin with the ignition switch off -- the voltage should be near zero (relay contacts open). Then turn the key to "ON" -- the voltage should come up to near battery voltage (ECU powers relay coil via B135 pin 19, thereby closing relay contacts). Next, start the engine -- see if the voltage drops (monitor it for a while), and to what voltage. If you get back with the results, I might have further insight.

Why not try to get another remote transmitter? A Google search turned up: http://www.autotechs.com/subcat46.htm . They have a toll-free number, so maybe a call will determine if you can easily get another remote. (I've never done business with them, so can't say how good or bad they may be.) EDIT: Here's another http://www.remotesunlimited.com/ By the way, Code-Alarm is an Audiovox company, and Pursuit is one of their many brands .

Here's the story from the horse's mouth: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/OBDEWWin05.pdf

The original poster, taitcyrus, has probably dealt with the problem by now, since his post dates back to January 2005. However, best of luck with your own problem.

For folks in the US whose calculator is out of reach, that's about 27.4 mpg. Only if carbon buildup in the cylinders has raised the compression ratio to at least 15:1, in which case be sure to disable the ignition system and install glow plugs for those cold Canadian starts.

Perhaps you could try changing the crossbeams' relative position, and see what affect there is on mpg. They may just be too far apart; after all, the rear one should be positioned in the slipstream of the front's.

Assuming you're running tires that are equivalent to the factory originals, I'd suggest adding 2-3 psi to the factory spec. That would mean 32-33 front, 31-32 rear. Keep the fronts a pound or so higher than the rears, unless you are carrying a very heavy load -- in that case up the rears a pound or so. To tell whether the pressure you decide on is correct, monitor tire wear. If the tread depth remains fairly even across each tire, you've got the pressure right. If the center of the tread area wears more than that near the shoulders, the tires are overinflated. If the opposite, they're underinflated. (However, you may see a bit more tread wear near the shoulders on the fronts even with proper inflation, due to cornering. That's one of the reasons to rotate tires on a regular basis.)

That's the problem with a vehicle having the aerodynamics of a billboard.

I certainly don't know what the circumstances are in this case, but sometimes people move, and forget to tell everyone (Subaru, for example ) of their new address. Maybe the dealer didn't register the ownership info correctly with Subaru and the owner never got any notices, etc. The SM sounds like he's laying some groundwork. Hmmm, I can just hear it now, "Besides the 'free' recall items, your car needs about $3,000 in other work." Just in case they go there, I'd have them take care of the recalls, and then evaluate the quality of that work and the need for anything else before approving more.

I'm not sure exactly what you're trying to do (only deal with the starter disablement, or the alarm in general), or if you even have the remote unit(s). Perhaps the following link is useful; go to the 1995-2000 Code Alarm System section: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html EDIT: If all you want to do is prevent the starter from being disabled, you may be able to just replace the starter interrupt relay with a jumper plug. But if that's what you're after, may I ask why? Many people ignore car alarms, but it's hard for a thief to make off with a car that won't start.

Welcome to the forum. You've mentioned symptoms that appear to affect the clutch, trans, and engine. For the moment, let's assume you have one problem causing all the symptoms, and not three simultaneously-occurring ones. Since the idle doesn't seem right (you should verify that's the case with both the trans in neutral and the clutch disengaged), it would appear there's an engine problem. An engine unable to maintain good output under load at low revs can make the clutch and trans appear to have problems, especially when accelerating from a standstill. I'd verify, and then concentrate on, the seemingly poor engine idle. You said "it feels like it is struggling to sustain revs"; how is that evidenced? RPM not steady? If so, how much variation?

Have you ever tried to improve mpg by driving while monitoring engine vacuum, and trying to keep it as high as possible? I wonder how that would compare with the result of using a trip computer.

You've also got a manual trans, which can certainly factor into mpg. Martinjmpr and I both have ATs. The cars have a 15.9 gallon tank, so the approximately 14.5 gallon refill that I calculated based on Martinjmpr's figures could make sense. If we assume that the fill was closer to 13.5 gallons, for a 405 mile "range" that would result in 30 mpg; if a 12 gal fill, nearly 34 mpg, both of which are even more questionable (especially for city mpg) than basing the calculation on 14.5 gals. I'm wondering about the range (405 miles), or that they were "mostly city" miles (especially if in Denver).

I thought that might be the case , but mine is green :-\ . There's also Martinjmpr's Denver location (elevation, which doesn't typically improve mpg) to further cloud the issue. Your mileage is much more consistent with my experience and EPA ratings than others I've seen reported. On the local trips I average a bit less than the EPA 21 mpg "city" rating.

Okay, now you've got me going. According to your profile: City: Denver, CO, USA Vehicles: '99 OBW, Dark green, AT I live in a somewhat hilly area, and have a car that matches the description of yours. But in local driving I only get about 20 mpg, and I'm a conservative driver. Therefore I'm envious of your 25.5 "mostly city" mpg; I can get 26-27 mpg, but only on the highway. If you don't mind, could you tell us what pressure you keep in your tires? Do you run dino or synthetic oil? How long is a typical trip, and at what speed? Do you have the roof rack bars on? By the way, I tried to calculate your mpg using the figures you gave. If you spent "just over $42" for gas at $2.91/gal, then you bought about 14.5 gals. If you went 405 miles on that amount of gas, you got close to 28 mpg, not 25.5. Now I really would like to know more about your car and trips.

You're welcome!

I just thought of a whole bunch of puns and wisecracks, none of which I'm going to post.

Yes, what was the decision?... Well, since we don't know yet, I'll mention one other factor -- ozone. If you've decided to store the tires, keep them away from things that generate it, like electrical devices that arc or spark (some motors, welders, etc.). One more thing; some "rubber protectants" can make the problem worse, since they can remove the waxes/polymers that are added to the rubber to protect against ozone.

A '95 model is right at the beginning of OBD-II, so it doesn't surprise me that trans codes aren't reported via it. As you mentioned, using a ground probe with diagnostic connector B82 should allow you to retrieve codes by reading AT temp light flashes. If you don't already have it, http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf could be useful. The bottom of page 12 through page 14 in particular should be relevant.

Thanks nipper, interesting read. Here's one generalization I picked up on:"Resonance, which is characteristic of combustion detonation, occurs at about 6400 Hertz. So the pinging you hear is actually the structure of the engine reacting to the pressure spikes. This noise of detonation is commonly called spark knock. This noise changes only slightly between iron and aluminum. This noise or vibration is what a knock sensor picks up. The knock sensors are tuned to 6400 hertz and they will pick up that spark knock." Knock frequencies are dependent on engine design, in particular things such as cylinder bore (diameter). The frequency given in the article (6400 Hertz) is only an average one, and may be at what the NorthStar engines the writer is apparently familiar with resonate. Also, many knock sensors are of the non-resonant (untuned) type, and respond to a wide range of frequencies (2kHz-20kHz or even beyond is common). Often the output of those untuned sensors is filtered, or "listening" time is limited, so that the ECU can obtain more useful data. Even so, untuned sensors can pick up sounds other than knock, leading to unintentional retarded timing.

I realize you already got the pads, but for future reference... Online dealers sell OEM front pads for about $60-65 (for '96 Legacy depends if with 14" or 15" wheels), plus S/H. Probably worth reading; draw your own conclusions: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/FrictionFeb06EW.pdf

Subaru here in the US (or its dealers) may not push synthetic oil, but that doesn't seem to be the case in Canada. Take a look at these: http://assets.subaru.ca/7907/media/en-ca/download/06SpringMailer_EN.pdf http://assets.subaru.ca/7907/media/en-ca/download/SixStar06_Sum_ENFinal.pdf A "PREMIUM" oil change includes Mobil 1; apparently Canadian-market Subaru engines are made of less-porous aluminum.

Any room for a nut splitter?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_34573_34573

Glad to provide what I could. It probably worked out for the best, at least in terms of possible imact on the AWD (yeah, monetarily it's another thing ). Let's hope you don't need to replace another tire or two in 10k miles, because the reason for that usually isn't anything good.