OB99W

A 50% solution of glycol-based antifreeze raises coolant boiling point about 12 degrees F, aside from the previously mentioned advantages.

Thanks for the update, Mike. Sometimes people take responsibilty and do the right thing. Let's hope that this proves to be one of those times.

I seem to remember that your car had a used trans installed a little while ago. Did the AM interference start about that time, or was it apparent before? If the noise started when the trans work was done, I'd look into related wiring, grounds in particular. Air America may be financially bankrupt, but Rush is bankrupt in other respects.

With respect to the inductive kick and related effect on the switch (or relay) contacts, it makes no difference whether the circuit is switched in the "ground" or "positive" lead.

I'd look, but it seems that registration is required, and I really don't need the temptation af another forum to post on. Not having seen the circuit, I can't be sure, but Wayne's explanation for the problem seems logical. Perhaps proper application of damper/snubber diodes might be the solution, but I'm not willing to do the design and then depend on a disclaimer to protect my hide. For non-EE's, interesting reading, may or may not be applicable (and a 1N4004 probably isn't the best choice for usage with the "C" duty solenoid): http://www.oz.net/~coilgun/theory/inductivekickback.htm

Some general info:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ProperInsideEWFall05.pdf

If it's truly a "big end" problem, then it isn't at the wrist pin, since that's the "small end" (of the connecting rod, that is). In the US we usually call the stuff connected to the crankshaft the "bottom end".

Two of the pics didn't show when I tried the link; URLs that I found work correctly are: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/795/10420conv2.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/795/10420conv7.jpg On the other hand, those shots may not be the most important.

If by "standard" you mean "English" (inches), 1-1/4" is 31.75mm; might fit, might not.

ABS info, including some on how to retrieve trouble codes: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf

Although the crankcase is empty, it might be a good idea to look at anything left in the filter. The filter "can" should be opened using a method that won't create a lot of metal debris (read "don't use a hacksaw"); if there's any significant amount of metal trapped in the filter, the chances for recovery obviously aren't too good. If things don't look bad in the filter, try oil and a new one. If the engine runs "acceptably" for a few minutes, I'd shut it down and again change the oil and filter. Should there be lots of smoke from the tailpipe, it shouldn't be run too long, or in addition to the engine being fried the catalytic converter could get poisoned. Yes, that's probably not going to be an easy win. Still, correcting this situation may run several thousand dollars, and recouping part of that is probably worth some effort.

Gee, that's an ugly tale. I'm sure there will be others here who'll disagree, but unless the engine is seized, I'd install a new drain plug, replace the oil and filter, try to start the thing, and see what happens. It could be terrible, but on rare occasions things aren't as bad as they might seem with this scenario. As to what your step-son should expect to pay -- IMO, not much. Although from what you've said he may be partially at fault, the primary blame lies with the apparently incompetent people who did the oil change, and they should bear the brunt of the expense. After all, who needs to watch oil level and pressure after just having a car "properly" serviced and inspected ? Best of luck with the outcome.

That's what Henry Ford said. It might work in Washington State, but there's a reason that lots of cars in Florida and other southern states are white (even with A/C).

Agreed; O2 sensor first. A bad front sensor could also be the cause of poor gas mileage, which is where this thread seems to have started. A new catalytic converter won't help gas mileage, although if the original is bad, will help the environment.

Who could tell? I hope you enjoy it. Oh, until the links get fixed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/clap.gif

It looks like you protected the crank pulley from the chain wrench, which is important if the pulley is going to be reused.

Welcome to the forum. You've described classic symptoms of head gasket failure. Even if we assume by "piston sleeves" that the reference is to cylinder walls, there's a question as to how the dealer determined that's where the problem lies as opposed to head gaskets; did they explain how HGs were ruled out? Overheating the engine could lead to all kinds of things, including warped heads, but not necessarily a cracked block. You may want to get a second opinion by someone who knows Subarau engines and is willing to consider more than an engine swap. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone in the Raleigh-Durham area, but hopefully another forum member might. How many miles are on the engine? By the way, things may not run smoothly here for a while (read the Announcement if you don't know why), so don't be discouraged if replies to your message are a bit slow in coming.

What's the ABS problem? These may help with identification, etc.: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf

I'd suggest rechecking the t-belt installation, paying especial attention to the mark at the crank. The following might prove useful: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf Motor magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/112001_08.pdf

Here's food for thought: Under normal circumstances, if coasting downhill and a trans is shifted to a lower gear, do engine revs decrease or increase? No, that's not a trick question. It appears to me like the trans is already in a lower-than-top gear; the high revs would seem to indicate it, and of course under that circumstance it won't want to shift to an even lower gear. Driving the car yourself does seem like a good idea.

Sorry that I didn't warn you. Here's something I posted yesterday in response to someone replacing a relay under the dash: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=522028

Online dealers typically sell OEM knock sensors for $50-75.

Ouch! Thanks for posting the pictures. Can't be certain it's rusted completely through, but with that amount of corrosion it obviously could be, or might be leaking at a hose fitting.

I believe that the relay you are looking for is in a group of three (but not necessarily the ones you've already located); according to info I've found, they should be behind the fuse panel, not easy to find, get to, or work on. Info seems to indicate that the connector going to the blower relay is "neutral" in color, which usually means tan-ish.

Great, I like simple "fixes". Of course, it does make you wonder how/why they got unplugged to begin with. :-\