OB99W

One more that may be of interest: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/FtAdditionalTipsF99.pdf

Wheel bearing replacement using specialized tools, but has some useful general info as well: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf

Placing a fuse in the FWD holder grounds ("pulls low") a logic circuit input. Any automotive fuse that fits the holder will pass enough current.

You might want to consider this: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegacyIdleSum04.pdf

Check my response to another blower issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=562738

You could consider some things mentioned here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69373

When the blower doesn't work, check whether it's inoperative at each of the speeds. There's a multi-section blower motor resistor that sometimes develops a bad connection; if the blower consistently works at the highest speed but not lower ones, the cause might be that resistor. Other possibilities are intermittent contacts on the switch, wiring problems, etc. If even the highest speed is intermittent, examine the blower motor relay.

I realize that this thread is a couple of weeks old, but I thought there might be some interest in Subaru's "official" position on cold start exhaust smell: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ExhaustInfo.pdf

Uneven lug nut tightening can cause certain problems, but the one discussed in this thread is more typically a consequence of the use of salt by road crews trying to keep streets clear in winter. Maybe they should use flame throwers instead. (I just had to come up with an excuse for using that smiley. )

You may be getting conflicting information because '96 was a time of transition for the auto industry. In order to meet more stringent emission standards, better engine management systems were developed. The ECUs of "newer" cars include OBD-II (on-board diagnostics, second version). First came non-OBD, then OBD-I; the '96 Legacy incorporates OBD-II. Here are a couple of links to articles that might help clarify things a bit: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWPreOBDAug05.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/OBDEWWin05.pdf

If you're comfortable doing electrical work, then the following should allow you to get the code(s): The diagnostic connector (B82) is a black six-terminal one. It's located under the dash, above the brake pedal, and might be taped up to an electrical harness along with two grounded probe terminals. The attachment in post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=556658 explains how to use that connector for ABS diagnosis; if a grounded probe terminal is inserted into #5 (rather than #6) of B82, the AT diagnosis is selected instead of the ABS. With the engine off, insert one of the grounded terminals into B82 #5, turn the ignition ON, and count the long and short flashes. These have further info on AT trouble code retrieval: http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf pages 12 & 13 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf page 24 http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATDiagServ.pdf pages 20 & 21

The problem may be electrically related, specifically a defective "C duty solenoid". That can also damage the transfer clutch, but if the problem hasn't been ongoing for too long perhaps not. There's a procedure utilizing an under-dash diagnostic connector that you can do to retrieve the exact trouble code (the AT OIL TEMP LIGHT can do more than flash the 16-times warning). With that, it could become easier to suggest a proper approach to repair. I'll get back with info on doing the diagnostic procedure.

Frag, don't beat yourself up -- nobody here is infallible (as I've said, including me ), and sometimes it takes time to wrap one's head around a concept. By the way, there's some more good info on how the crank and cam sensors work (among other "stuff") in this (see especially page 15): http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf By the way, I'm not suggesting that doing a t-belt change with the alternative positioning is the best approach. Following "the book" seems to work just fine and is basically straightforward.

It's not internet lore. The ECU stores certain parameter data based on what it "learns" as the car is driven; examples that may be germane are fuel trims. If it didn't store those averages, the engine management system would have to respond instantaneously to all the sensors, requiring a much more powerful computer and probably still leading to uneven response characteristics.

It would seem that the wheel centerbores are stuck on the hubs due to corrosion. One "trick" that often works is to put the lugnuts back on, but leave them a turn or two loose. With the car off the jack (tires on the ground), rock the car side to side fairly aggressively; just don't dent the bodywork in the process .

No problem, I'm not offended. It's true that you don't know me or my credentials, because I've never mentioned them on this forum, and I don't see a need to do so now. I've never claimed to be infallible, but I do try to be credible . Thanks; you, too. What definitely won't align every second revolution of the crank is the marks on the t-belt. However, the cams should come back to the same position after two crank turns, or the engine isn't staying in time.

Assuming that the clutch didn't get "unhappy" due to the extra half ton and is now slipping, the concept that the ECU learned some bad behavior isn't unreasonable. If that's the case, it should correct itself after a bit more "normal" driving, or resetting it might indeed be worth trying.

If this is the car you replaced the timing belt on, you might want to make sure that the crank bolt isn't loose. A PS belt that loosens by itself can be due to it not being properly tensioned to begin with, but it can also be because the crank pulley has loosened or is failing (bad isolation rubber between the halves).

Sorry if you don't think I'm credible. We can let Nipper play referee, if he wants to... However, what I said is not "beside the point". The crank goes through 720 degrees (twice around) during the time the cams turn once (360 degrees). Let's assume that we start off with the crank and cam marks all up. Now rotate the crank through 360 degrees; the crank mark of course will again be up, but the cams will have only gone through 180 degrees, and their marks will be down, but still correctly timed. Rotate the crank through another 360 degrees, and the cams will rotate another 180 (360 total), and their marks will again be up. Here's the point: The crank sensor doesn't know the difference between one time that the crank completes a revolution (when the cam marks are up) and another time (when the cam marks are down). It only detects the passing of particular points, which happen each revolution. It's the pulses from the cam sensor that allows the ECU to determine the definitive position of things. This should help; see page 5 of: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf Note that the cam reluctor causes there to be 1, 2, or 3 sensor pulses, depending on which 90 degree position the cam is in. The crank sensor's output allows the ECU to determine piston position, but the cam sensor output lets the ECU figure out how that relates to the cylinder cycles.

You may have meant 180 deg, but that doesn't change the validity of what I said above (post #24) in this thread.

In 4-cycle engines, the crank completes two full revolutions for each single turn of the camshaft(s) (4 cycles requires 2 full up-down strokes). Therefore, one revolution of the crank corresponds with half of one for a camshaft. But you knew that.

The majority of deer/vehicle accidents that are fatal (for a person, not sure about the deer) involve motorcycles. Obviously you usually have a better chance in a car or something bigger/stronger; statistics say especially so if you're belted in.

I realize the original question was already answered, but in case someone needs further code info: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

That's from page 15 of: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf If you haven't seen it already, here's a post I made with that and other t-belt links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=557934

(Darn, Nipper, you respond faster than I edit. ) Is that what those plastic outlet covers are for?