OB99W

Consider yourself lucky. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89121 to find out why. I assume the gas didn't seem to be under pressure (it shouldn't have been).

Assuming you "zeroed out" the meter lead resistance, those readings seem a bit high -- I'd expect them to be under 1.0 ohm. I wonder if the cause could be a failing contact on the main relay. The MAF is one of a few things fed by it, but it may be the one that the ECU is particularly sensitive to. The P0102 MAF code causes the MIL to light immediately, while other problems that can cause "sputtering" might require a restart before it's lit. While the MAF itself certainly could be intermittent, you might try rapping on the main relay and see if engine running condition and/or MAF voltage changes when you do.

With that kind of response, I can't tell if you know the correct way to check ATF level or not -- if you're using the same procedure to check it as engine oil level, you're doing it wrong. Good move, Nipper. Unfortunately, I'm also finding that to be more and more appropriate.

I assume you were referring to the lock pin and caliper slide. Both the guide pin and lock pin outer surfaces have to be properly lubricated for the caliper to slide correctly. The pin boots should also be greased at the inner "grooves". Again, be sure to use lubricant specifically meant for the purpose.

Maybe it's not the ATF, but something "smells funny" here. Would you describe the procedure you're using to check the fluid level?

Sorry, although I haven't personally found that a "high enough" post count ensures respect or that you won't be ignored -- but maybe I just haven't reached the right level yet. I've had a vacuum gauge a lot longer than a scan tool, and although it cost much less than the scanner, it's easily as valuable a diagnostic instrument for certain problems. McDave, you have my sympathy.

There's a bit more to it, and doing it improperly can damage things. Here's what End Wrench says on the topic: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ProperInsideEWFall05.pdf By the way, have you ever had a vacuum gauge on this engine? It can sometimes reveal subtle problems that are otherwise hard to pin down.

While it's not a bad idea to verify that caliper pistons aren't sticking, if that happens the inner versus outer pad wear is usually relatively even (assuming the caliper slides readily), although excessive. If you decide to do this, be very careful about depressing the brake pedal while the caliper is not mounted; it's easy to "pop" a piston that way. At the very least, place a block of wood where the rotor (and pads, if removed) would normally be, to limit the piston travel.

Yes. If the caliper can't slide, it won't self-center over the rotor, and the outer pad won't apply as much pressure as the inner (therefore the inner will wear more). Yes. Make sure the boots are in good condition, that the pins aren't corroded (or possibly even bent), and that you use a proper high-temperature brake lubricant. Also, verify that the pad tabs/ears are able to move within the anti-rattle clips without excessive force -- if not, there may be corrosion, or the pads' dimensions may be out of specification (especially if they're not OEM). Originally, when the inner pad was severely worn, you may have been hearing the pad wear-indicator rubbing (it makes a noise to alert you). After the pads were replaced, it might be caused by several factors, including no or improper lubrication of the pad back plate where it contacts the pad clip/shim. You could start with checking what I've already mentioned, and let us know if the problem persists.

Seems like the caliper is sticking, not sliding. At a minimum, disassemble, check for corrosion, clean, lube.

Besides replacing the belt and water pump, given an unknown history and "I am sure a it was heavily used by the first owners and I have used it daily a well", it would probably be a good idea to at least replace idlers and tensioner as well. Following are some links to good info, and it wouldn't hurt to do a search here on USMB also. 2.2 Liter, timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

White-taped leads go to the front (#1 and #2) injectors.

Yes, and here's the recall info:http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_97V210000_1997_SUBARU_LEGACY_recall_17905.html This is a significant safety defect, so the dealer will likely do a no-charge repair. If not, you should contact Subaru of America.

Engines with horizontally opposed cylinders minimize harmonic vibrations. Having fewer cylinders also helps, because the crankshaft can be shorter, lessening the tendency to twist. Proper counterbalancing of the crank also minimizes certain vibrations. So the H4 doesn't inherently require a lot of damping. However, the opposing cylinders obviously aren't connected to the exact same place on the crank, so that balancing is imperfect, and torsional pulses exist under any circumstance. That's why crank pulley damping is useful, whether it's tuned for "harmonics" or not. I'm not going to take sides on the issue of whether a solid, lightweight crank pulley could be detrimental, but here are some links for those interested in a bit more on the topic: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsional_vibration http://www.fluidampr.com/TORSIONAL.html http://www.fluidampr.com/FACTS.htm

If the cam sensor is "covered in junk", that's not a good sign -- it's in a relatively protected area, and any significant accumulation would likely point to failure of a timing-related part. Perhaps the sensor you're referring to was an ABS wheel sensor, which can be affected by road debris. For some general info on the ignition system, including sensors, see http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf . There are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed in the text are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly. Sounding "normal" while cranking is good, but the timing belt having never been changed still leaves it high on the list of possible problems. For how many miles have you owned the car?

Any of these three can lead to poor running or high emissions, but not no spark. While you could have a bad cam sensor, often that code is set when the timing is wrong, as when the timing belt breaks or jumps position. Fortunately, according to your previous thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90708 , you have a '93 and unless the engine was replaced with a more recent one, it's a non-interference type. Therefore, even if the timing is way off, no damage will occur to valves or pistons. How many miles ago was the timing belt last changed? Does the cranking of the engine sound "normal" to you? Do you have a means of checking cylinder compression? Could you pull the timing belt covers and check the belt?

Some people do see an improvement in MPG with elevation, but it's not that common. Anything still powered with a carbureted engine (having no automatic mixture compensation) will typically see a drop in MPG because it'll run rich unless the carb is re-jetted. Enjoy your new location, and let us know in a few months how your AWD is performing.

Stand at the front of the car, find the throttle and cruise control cables. Look between them, straight down, right behind the intake manifold runner for cylinder #4. Yes, that's it, way down there, probably hidden under a wiring harness. Now you know what the ":banghead: " is really for. You're welcome, and welcome to the forum.

Denver may be the "Mile High City" (5280 ft), but lots of Colorado is up there -- the lowest elevation in Colorado is over 3,300 ft. As a pilot, you know that air density (oxygen content) decreases with altitude. However, the engine management system will try to maintain fuel burning stoichiometrically (about 14.7:1 A/F ratio), and the ECU should narrow the fuel injector pulses to accomplish that. Therefore, you'll have less power at any throttle position than you did at lower elevation, and will have to "get on it" more. There's a loss of about 3% in power for each 1,000 feet, so your maximum could be down about 15% at 5,000 feet if the engine can't get enough air and fuel. None of that, however, directly addresses the question of gas mileage. Again due to the ECU trying to maintain 14.7:1 A/F, fuel mileage should remain about the same as at sea level, under the same driving conditions (temperature, traffic, terrain, etc.). I emphasized terrain because lowered gas mileage at higher elevations is often blamed on the altitude, when it's usually that there's more up-and-down-hill travel, which is what actually causes the reduction.

The Subaru coil packs have two coils. The two primaries (of coils without an integral igniter) each typically measure about 0.7 ohms. (The secondaries of your coil pack should be about 13 k-ohms.) If you're seeing resistance in the Megohm range, something certainly isn't right -- did each primary measure that? Is it possible you measured about 700-something milli-ohms, which is the same as 0.7 ohms?

ECM/ECU pin #3 (white wire) is the knock sensor terminal, according to FSM. It's not a direct connection, however -- that white wire goes to pin #6 of connector B21 (12-pin gray), which connects with E2 (where the wire color changes to Blk/W), continuing to the knock sensor. Shield continuity is via pin #7 of B21/E2. The shields are connected to ground via a Blu/G wire from pin #56 of the ECU, again not directly, but via "Shield Joint Connector" B83 (4-pin jumper). One test for the knock sensor is to unplug the ECU connector and check at pin #3 for between 400k-ohms and 700k-ohms to engine ground. If that's the range of resistance the ECU finds "acceptable", then a resistor of value somewhere in the middle of that range should fool the ECU that an intact knock sensor is in place. That should prevent generation of the P0325 code, but of course offers no knock detection.

You might not have to pay for an owner's manual. See my post here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=750998

H6 (3.0L)/LL Bean are/were still available for MY 2008. For 2009, the 3.0 R Limited is the 3.0L version that replaces the LL Bean. See: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2009.html

Okay -- STIS can be linked from the endwrench site, but it's a separate pay site, hence the need for a password. Anyone looking for an owner's manual could consider: http://www.subaru.com/common/faq/index.jsp#4 They'll send you one if still available. Or, for the PDF version: https://my.subaru.com/login/login.jsp You'd have to register, and only 1995-on vehicles are covered.

Sorry, but I don't see a link for owner's manuals there. Are we talking http://endwrench.com/ , or a different Subaru site?