OB99W

One side of each of the dash warning lights is connected, through the ignition switch, to the "hot" side of the battery. When the key is first turned on, before the alternator field is energized, the brake warning light gets a ground connection (via a diode) through the alternator's field winding. This allows the brake warning light to be tested at the same time as the other dash lights. Once the alternator field is self-excited, the brake light (and battery charge warning light) go out because both ends of each of those two lamps will have about the same voltage on them. Since the brake warning light is connected in that manner, if the alternator field voltage dies, both the charge and brake warning lights will come on. Aternator output is dependent on the field being energized. If that stops happening for whatever reason, even if the rest of the alternator is okay (including coils, rectifier diodes, etc.), there won't be any output, and of course the battery voltage will keep dropping even if engine rpm is kept high. As long as the battery is not too old and accepts a decent charge, resolving the alternator problem should be the end of the difficulty.

I suspect that buying one of these devices does increase gas mileage for some people. Having spent $180 puts enough of a dent in their finances that it lessens the funds available for gas purchases. Therefore, subconsciously trying to stretch the available gas, they drive more conservatively and actually get better mileage.

Did the previous (possibly related) problem in http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78992 ever get resolved? If so, how?

If you're saying that you measured resistance across the connector with it disconnected from the injector, that won't tell you much. Could you compare that with the reading at a working injector (#2, for example)? What resistance does the injector itself measure? (Comparing resistance of injectors #1 with #2 might also be useful.)

Tell us what you measured, and how. If the ECU isn't switching #1, you won't be able to measure any voltage between the two pins of the connector. Even so, you should see a steady voltage (13-14 volts with the engine running) from one of the two connector pins to a good ground point (block or chassis). Is that the case?

You can certainly troubleshoot with a meter, but noid lights aren't expensive (although for what's in them, maybe they are ), and are relatively easy to use. See: http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=noid+light

You might try a "noid light" to help determine if the injector is getting a switching pulse from the ECU when the problem occurs. It's a "go"/"no-go" test, and can't really tell you pulse width, but that may be all you need in order to determine where to start looking.

Welcome to the forum. There are a few possible causes of what you've described. Can we assume that the CEL isn't lit? What model year is your car? Here are a couple of links to info that may be helpful: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegacyIdleSum04.pdf By the way, could you actually drive your OB in the "Outback"? (It seems "Madmat" and "Sydney" = Australia )

I can understand that; suppose I could have said "If it turns out the injector itself isn't at fault...". You're welcome; I hope it turns out to be something simple.

Before assuming the injector itself is at fault, see the last section of http://endwrench.com/current/spring04pdfs/InsiderInfo.pdf(page 30, entitled "Legacy and Impreza Engines with No Injection Pulse #1 Cylinder").

It's often caused by an obstructed hose causing gas tank venting problems. See: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf

I can't tell exactly what procedure was used from what you said, so you may already be aware of the following. It's important to not push possibly-contaminated brake fluid back up the brake lines when compressing the caliper. Whenever I do that job, I clean the bleeder screw and put a short length of hose on it first, and put the open end of the hose in a jar. I tighten the clamp the slightest bit, loosen the bleeder, then continue compressing the caliper. If the brake fluid coming out of the hose isn't perfectly clean, I leave the bleeder open, and gently step on the brake pedal, pushing through more fluid until it looks okay (of course, I make sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir sufficiently full). I then tighten the bleeder. Once the rest of the brake job is done, I'll rebleed just to ensure no air was introduced. This method takes a bit longer, but I've never had a caliper piston seize or even get tight after a job done this way. If you're replacing a caliper, it's just as important to do the above. Otherwise, any contaminants in the fluid can wind up in the new caliper, and even bleeding afterward might leave some behind. By the way, I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a badly-rebuilt caliper -- that also happens.

I've found the low to be high enough, so I can't say if the high is too high. (How's that for confusing? )

Have you tried http://www.subaru.com/common/faq/index.jsp#6 ? There's no charge, assuming they have it in stock.

Okay -- I just wanted to help with your confusion (Reveeen seems certain, not confused ), so anyone reading the thread would know that not all Subaru models (even if a Legacy) have crossflow radiators.

Maybe the pictures at the following two sites will clear up the confusion; they sure look like they have top (and bottom ) tanks: http://market.autopartsfair.com/subaru-exterior_parts/catalog-item-23721.html http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sitesearch/details.php?p_id=subaruoutback20012004replacementp2465

Under the circumstances, you may well be "safe" for a bit longer, and again, a '91 2.2L won't self-destruct if the belt does break.

Okay... Jcniest5, did you use a California-model belt 100,000 miles ago?

I don't think "faith" has anything to do with the type of radiator. What makes you think the vehicle in question wouldn't have a top tank?

Timing belts obviously sometimes last considerably longer than the recommended change interval, but only those owners with non-interference engines aren't taking a big risk. You've gone 40,000 miles beyond the suggested interval, a testimonial to the particular belt you installed, and possibly related to other factors such as reasonable temperature and driving style. Sometimes, with elevated temps, "spirited" driving, some oil leaks, etc., a timing belt may even break or jump before the expected life.

"But, in this case", you should consider the model/year; not all Subaru rads are side-flow. All-metal aftermarket replacements are available on-line at reasonable price, but unfortunately determining brand/manufacturer is often difficult.

At least with your '91 2.2L, which is non-interference, you'd be facing a tow (but not engine damage) if it breaks. However, the recommended change interval on your engine is 60,000 miles; if the timing belt hasn't been replaced once already, it's long overdue.

A car radiator is comprised of a central core (flattened tubes with fins attached) connected to an inlet tank at one end and an outlet tank at the other. Many modern radiators have plastic tanks, rather than the brass ones previously used, and often have aluminum cores. When brass was used (often with copper cores), the tanks were soldered to the core. Plastic tanks are typically crimped to the core, with a gasket of some type between them. (A car with auto trans often has a trans cooler, usually in the outlet tank, as well.)

Let's see, another few thousand miles on the belt versus risking getting stranded with major engine damage (the 2.5L is an interference design)... umm, I'd change the belt. Yes, maybe idlers, tensioner, etc.; scroll down, see "Similar Threads", and do a search. (I must admit, I'm having a hard time simultaneously meeting the request for "bare minimum" and "so as not to unnecessarily repeat labor later on".)

You're welcome, a wee bit.