wallaceg

Well, the car has started binding on sharp turns. The problem is intermittent. Most days it drives fine, but about one day a week it binds on sharp turns at low speed. The FWD fuse sometimes works but sometimes doesn't (i.e. FWD light sometimes does not come on). Transmission fluid was changed 6 months/10k miles ago. Still reading TCU code 24 about once each week. Anything else I should try before I take it to the shop and have them replace the Duty C? Any recommendations on shops in the Boston area to do the work?

No offense taken, John. 1) Yes, I checked the TCU codes and not the ABS codes. This is a 97 Impreza L and does not have ABS. I checked the codes by plugging the diagnostic lead into the connector under the dash, shifting through the gears in a specific order, then depressing the accelerator. The AT temp light then started flashing the code. 2) Two long flashes and four short flashes = code 24, correct? 3) There is some vibration on occasion when stopped in gear. It goes away if you shift to N then back to D, or if you roll forward a foot or so. Giving a little gas when stopped in D does not make the vibration go away (i.e. not caused by a low/stumbling idle). I did not noticed any torque bind in regular driving on the trips immediately before it flashed. After the light flashed I did the driving-in-circles test in a parking lot and there was no binding. What exactly is the fault condition for code 24? Open circuit? Short circuit? Can I ohm-out the solenoid externally? I'll try to find the connections for the TCU wiring harness and see what condition the cables are in. Thanks!

The transmission has been behaving normally for a while, then the AT Temp light flashed again yesterday afternoon. No flashing this morning. Error code 24 again. Is this a sign that the Duty C solenoid is failing? Any easy fixes that might help? (i.e. changing the trans fluid) I don't have a garage to work in so dropping the trans is out of the question.

Car info: 1997 Impreza wagon, 2.2L, 4EAT, 160000 mi Last Friday the "AT Temp" light flashed quickly after starting the engine. After looking around on this form I figured out how to read the TCU error code. Turns out it's TCU code number 24, the dreaded "Duty Solenoid C." The vehicle exhibits no signs of torque bind and idles itself around in circles in both directions just fine. AWD seems to be functioning fine (no wheel slip on loose gravel). The transmission fluid is at the correct level, looks pink, and smells fine. The problem first appeared at the same time as a dragging right front brake pad. Not sure if the trans problem might be caused by the brake issue. I fixed the brake problem but the blinking AT Temp light remains. Any suggestions on the next move? Also, where can I find fuse 14? Sounds like I need to remove it to clear the code. Thanks!

I removed the glove compartment with the two screws on the hinges and then took off the panel behind it. This exposed the fresh air door mechanism and I was able to quickly reattach the cable to the actuator. Thanks again!

After replacing the HVAC control bulbs the fresh/recycled air damper switch is stuck in the fresh position. Not a big deal since I hardly ever use recycled air but I'd like to fix it anyway. Things look OK on the switch end but I can't track the cable back to the damper end. Where is the damper located? Hidden behind some panel? Car is a 97 Impreza L wagon. Thanks!

Today on the way home from work the right front tire on my 97 Imp wagon (125k, 4EAT) blew out. Put the spare on the right rear, moved the right rear tire up to the right front, put in the FWD fuse, and drove home. The tires are Bridgestone Blizzaks with ~5k (one winter) on them. Here's the dilemma: I just put the snow tires on for the winter two weeks ago. I do this at Thanksgiving since my parents are kind enough to let me store the tires off season in their garage (no place to store them at my apartment). As far as I can tell I've got 4 options: 1) Replace the blown out tire with an identical match. I'm aware of the risks of mixing non-matching tires with AWD, but perhaps the tires are new enough to not cause a problem? The rule of thumb I've heard is that the tires must be the same brand/model/size and tread depth must be the same to within 1/32". 2) Replace with 4 new snow tires. 3) Drive 3 hours to my parents' house on the doughnut and put the all-season tires back on. These tires have ~35k on them already. 4) Replace with 4 new all-season tires. Option 1 seems most cost effective unless it trashes the transmission. Options 3 and 4 leave me without snow tires for the winter (AWD helps you go in the snow, but it doesn't help you stop---snow tires do). Option 2 is the safest, but expensive in the short term. What would you do?

Just to answer your question, the fuel filter was replaced about a year/12k ago. The MAF was in fact the problem and the car has been running great since replacing the faulty sensor.

Yes, although it would have cost me $60 for each day I waited for it to arrive since I have no other vehicle.... Still, thanks for the offer!

For the sake of posterity (and anyone in a similar situation). After changing the plugs and wires, inspecting all the vacuum hoses, and cleaning the MAF, I caved and took the car to my mechanic. He happened to have a used MAF on hand (seriously, what are the odds?), swapped out the faulty one, and the car was running like a top again. Makes me wish I had just asked if he had one available and then installed it myself. Costs: $60-Plugs, wires, and MAF cleaner (Would have replaced them soon anyway.) $180-Used MAF and labor ($60 less than the new MAF I was going to buy!) $60-Rental car for a day :-\

I replaced all 4 plugs and wires with NGK/Subaru parts, and there is no improvement, maybe even got a little worse. The engine is still idling rough and stalls occasionally. Looked at the vacuum lines but didn't see any obvious cracks. Looks like it might be the MAF, but I don't want to try swapping out a $200 part on a hunch.

Update: Looked at the MAF and it seems OK. No dirt or other buildup. Cable and connector look good too. Tried tapping the MAF and wiggling wires while the engine was idling and it didn't make any difference. Pulled out the #1 plug to have a look, and there was some white crusty deposit on the plug. I did not look at the #2 plug since it's a pain to get to. After putting the plug back in and reconnecting the wire it was running a bit worse than before.

The air intake is stock with a standard paper filter, and always has been. I used NGK plugs and Subaru wires at 90k. Sounds like I should check all the vacuum hoses, MAF sensor, and plug wires tonight. To clear the codes, disconnect the battery for 20 minutes, right?

Plugs and wires were replaced two years ago at 90k. Could an out-of-tune engine cause a MAF sensor error code?

Car is a 1997 Impreza L Wagon, 2.2L 4EAT, 118k miles. Yesterday I noticed that the engine stumbled once on the highway at 65mph, but other than that it's been running fine. This morning it started but was running very rough and stalled a few times. CEL came on. Let it sit for a few minutes, then restarted and it seemed OK. Drove a few miles, then the engine started to hesitate a little, then stalled cruising at 30mph. I restarted in neutral while rolling, and was fine again. Stopped at the Autozone to have the codes read and it showed: P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire P0103: MAF output higher than expected Seems like the first two codes could just be symptoms of a faulty MAF making the mixture too rich (increasing the fuel from the injectors to keep up with the abnormally high MAF reading). I have not had a chance to inspect inside the MAF yet, but the connector was on tight and is not wet or corroded. It is hot and humid today if that might be interfering with the MAF. Any insights onto whether the MAF actually is the problem, and if cleaning the sensor will help? A new MAF looks to be about $250. Thanks.

The bolts holding the strut to the knuckle are the same size as the wheel lugs. I discovered this last night while replacing a CV boot.

The boot is torn all the way around. I haven't noticed a clicking sound, but I wasn't listening for it either. Is there any benefit to replacing both the left and right? Do they tend to go at the same time?

Anyone know what year WRX springs can be swapped into a 93-01 Impreza?

Over the weekend I discovered a tear in the CV boot on my 97 Impreza wagon (auto, 100k miles). I know that the boot will need to be replaced, and maybe the CV as well. I figure I might as well get the struts done at the same time since they're starting to go. How much should it cost to get a new CV boot? A whole new CV? Struts? Also, I'm thinking of upgrading the rear springs to eliminate sag in the back. (See this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73603 ) Will 06 WRX springs fit? Thanks.

When in 1/2/R, the 4EAT transmission is NOT a 50/50 split. A 50/50 split would cause severe torque bind, which does not happen when you downshift. What actually happens is that the duty-c solenoid is set to a 50% duty cycle, which means that the rear driveshaft is engaged 50% of the time. Similarly, the split is NOT 90/10 when in D. The duty cycle of the duty-c is set to 90%, which means that the rear driveshaft is engaged 10% of the time. If the TCU senses that the front wheels are slipping, then it will engage the rear driveshaft up to 100% of the time automatically. In order to get a 50/50 split between the front and rear wheels, the duty-c must be set to a 0% duty cycle, which engages the rear driveshaft 100% of the time. You can install a simple "kill switch" to the duty-c in order to manually set the split to 50/50, but this causes severe torque bind and will ruin your transmission if done frequently on dry pavement.

The FWD fuse is only for automatic transmissions and disengages the rear drive, not the front drive, so I don't think it will help you.

How do the springs from a 97 Impreza compare to those from a WRX? The WRX coils should be a bit stiffer, but how much will they raise the car? Also, will the WRX springs fit onto the Impreza struts and top hats?

Mutual inductance has nothing to do with voltage. It's all about a change in magnetic flux, generally caused by a change in current through or geometry of a wire loop.

Anyone know how the length of the late 90's OBW rear struts compares to Forester struts from the same vintage? The front struts are the same between the two models, but the rear are different. Which one is longer?

http://www.litefootatv.com/html/new_litefoot_m3.htm#M3 ATV tracks with a GVWR of 3500 lbs.